• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Crazy Taz and his wire tuck.

I just wana drive my car a little bit lol... I know you all think little of my N/a but that cam puts a smile on my face everytime I start it up. Plus seing all the people look at the hood as it goes down the road... I love it lol.

284537_1856953550165_1430666591_31501501_8126425_n.jpg
 


I hope when I put the top swap on here that will help fix the top part of the engine

It wont. It gets worse. It will actually probably be worse than a stock GTP since the EVAP is in the front on the L36 and in the back on the L67. And you cant really move it to the back because you have to extend wires (which you can do) and the fuel lines arent meant to bend like that. my return fuel line is already kinda kinked.
 
It wont. It gets worse. It will actually probably be worse than a stock GTP since the EVAP is in the front on the L36 and in the back on the L67. And you cant really move it to the back because you have to extend wires (which you can do) and the fuel lines arent meant to bend like that. my return fuel line is already kinda kinked.

well wtf am i doin this for then lol
 
Braided fuel lines look baller. And it's easy.

That soldered wire, well, I'd have said the same as your dad etc. Cause..that's how I roll. :cool:

Glad you got the non-bulky way done. It looks really nice. Only other thing to consider when doing a project of this magnatude with wiring is to stagger the splices. That way it'll take up less room and once in the loom, it's invisible.
 
Braided fuel lines look baller. And it's easy.

That soldered wire, well, I'd have said the same as your dad etc. Cause..that's how I roll. :cool:

Glad you got the non-bulky way done. It looks really nice. Only other thing to consider when doing a project of this magnatude with wiring is to stagger the splices. That way it'll take up less room and once in the loom, it's invisible.

A lot of them end up getting spaced out a bit just because it's hard to solder a wire with 30+ wires around it.

and oh btw those crimp things ended up going in the trash, when I went to go and solder them more than half of them were already apart and I had to get the multi-tester and haynes manual out then figure out whats what.
 


yes top swapping makes it worse if you dont trim things. you can trim the evap hose, youll need a heat gun to put it back together. braided fuel lines look very nice and you should do them to that engine bay regardless of topswapping, they look nice. theres also some wiring over there that you can extend and tuck away. then its just the throttle cables and brakes.
 
382_2.jpg


I see a few things on top but not that much more.. is that because this has fuel logs? and some one mentioned deleting the abs earlier... how would one go about doing that?
 
Moving ABS maybe. Check Mikes thread.
I'm not that crazy bill I wish I was but I just don't have the time to do all he did right now lol and I swear I found all those parts sitting in my garage polished when I went out there one day must have been the polishing fairys...
 
Hey..you used crimping butt connectors at first, to me that's plain nuts. Glad you went back, because it er uh..would have been major issues.

Did I tell you that once I made an adapter to pass emissions? Since my Bonne was a 97, i wanted to run a 99 harness/pcm. Ok, easy enough with a couple pin changes at the firewall. Having HPT I was unable to change the VIN in the pcm to a 97's vin. Hmmm Testing facility said it had to be read by OBD2. So I hit the JY and got the wiring connectors going to a 97 pcm and ripped the top connector point off a 99 pcm. I then mapped all the pcm wires from 97 to 99, and started the soldering from Pin X to Pin Y. Did this all in one night as I had to pass emissions the next day. Yippeee I tell you. Then coated the connections in liquid electrical tape. Put this abortion adapter into the car with my old 97 pcm. As I turned the key, I cringed, prayed a little and hoped it didn't smoke anything. Vrooom was the response the car gave me. :cool:

When you get to the point of turning the key. I hope you have the same success. At that point, you'll know you did a great job. :th_thumb-up:
 


Hey..you used crimping butt connectors at first, to me that's plain nuts. Glad you went back, because it er uh..would have been major issues.

Did I tell you that once I made an adapter to pass emissions? Since my Bonne was a 97, i wanted to run a 99 harness/pcm. Ok, easy enough with a couple pin changes at the firewall. Having HPT I was unable to change the VIN in the pcm to a 97's vin. Hmmm Testing facility said it had to be read by OBD2. So I hit the JY and got the wiring connectors going to a 97 pcm and ripped the top connector point off a 99 pcm. I then mapped all the pcm wires from 97 to 99, and started the soldering from Pin X to Pin Y. Did this all in one night as I had to pass emissions the next day. Yippeee I tell you. Then coated the connections in liquid electrical tape. Put this abortion adapter into the car with my old 97 pcm. As I turned the key, I cringed, prayed a little and hoped it didn't smoke anything. Vrooom was the response the car gave me. :cool:

When you get to the point of turning the key. I hope you have the same success. At that point, you'll know you did a great job. :th_thumb-up:


Yea thanks, I love and hate those jobs where you don't know if the car is going to even start lol... from the time you hook the battery back up you start to get excited then you turn the key to the on position... alright cool the lights and everything are on..then you really start to shake and turn the key all the way... lol

the only thing I'm worried about a lot is maybe the MAF wire, and I think some 20 gauge may have some 18 gauge inbetween them... I'm do what I can to make sure it's all right but I know on one fuse block some of the 20 had some 18 inbetween it now all of the 18 has 18so thats good. But I'm not sure about the 20 with 18 There pretty close in size and are rated similar and the bigger wire is in the middle so I would think it would be fine but idk
 
yeah, 20 on the ends and 18 in the middle is fine. When are you going to be starting it?
tonight I hope. I just got to do a few more conections then wire loom and secure the wires which I can have done by 1:00 easily. Then I need to do the grounds and hot lines.

What I haven't thought about untill now tho is I got those HIDs and I bought a HD harness for it which I haven't hooked up yet... and now I will have to extend or hook up to the power at the starter? idk but I don't think I want to run the HIDs on the stock wiring with it extended now.

also bill what do you think for a cut-off switch location?
 
Why do you need a cut off switch? Read in and pull the relay for the ignition and it won't start. Since your relays are now in the center console.. yeah
 


so I ran out of heat shrink went and picked up some more and some 2 awg wire for the battery and 8 to extend some othe main line in the last group of wires oh and a fuse to put in the line to the fuse box... but then when I got back I figured out that I only have enough wire for 6 more extentions... so now I got like ten 20 awg wires left to go and all I have is 16awg 14 awg and single strand 20 awg... plus I'm not sure what to run to the fuse boxe for a main line... If I could get the rest of the harness extended I might be able to splice the battery wires of the two grand prixs together so I could atleast run the stock fuse line and put the battery in the front or back seat...
 
Customer called me and wanted his car detailed tonight before his buisness trip! so I got some extra cash to go out and pick up some more wire! so I officially have everything I need including my class c fire extinguisher...

Now do I wana focus on the base of the flame or get a fanning action going on?
 
Back
Top