Very Cheap CAI option
- Thread starter klj5022
- Start date
Bio248
DUI BABY
the point is to get the motor all the air it wants. a 3" tube will still cause a small amount of restriction if there are any bends. a 4" will make up for it a little, but the few of us that know what they are talking about have been pushing open cones for a reason. intake temperatures really do not affect power and anyone that says they can feel a difference between the two is on crack.
I can't feel a difference!. but it was worth 3 tenths in the quarter mile...going from hot under hood air to cool outside air!
footballplaya3k
New member
I shaved .2 seconds in the quarter going from the HAI you guys push to a ZZP CAI but there's no point in starting this argument I know how hard headed ppl are on here about their HAI's, especially you and blue.
footballplaya3k
New member
And that's fine blue boy. I would love to see your times at the track and see how fast your car heat soak out the ass. I do not have a very modded car like you but I do know you running around telling every noob to "stick a filter on the TB and be done with it" and zip tie the IAT sensor to it, really? I would to see your intake temps at the track, or anyone else running a HAI like you push.
footballplaya3k
New member
Did I say it was?
footballplaya3k
New member
Oh and my bad blue I forgot you're putting out more power than Zooomer's record holding car, you better tell him to throw a HAI on like you and take that stupid ZZP CAI, them he could make some real power like you
ZZ Performance
ZZ Performance
Bio248
DUI BABY
the point here is that once youre moving the IAT sees ambient temperatures. the open cone may not be the best for sitting in traffic, but it is the best for flow requirements. the problem here is that youre comparing apples to oranges with your argument. an open cone will always be best once the car is well modded because it needs all the air it can get. another thing to take into perspective is that normally when you tune the car you basically negate what the IAT sees and push the same amount of timing all the time. heat will come into play, which is why my car always ran like a dog in 95* weather, but ran excessively fast when it was 40* out. no one car runs the same and gains are marginal at best with any sort of intake change (assuming they all flow adequetly).
blueguy
The Blue One
That's fine...I've already had a scanner on my car...sitting at idle it does run a bit hot, but the second you start moving...which is what matters, gets down within +/- 10* ambient. I don't have to really prove anything to you, nor do I care really...my car runs like a raped ape. Non-intercooled...no methanol injection...no E-85. I've got no knock ever on a 3.1"...under freezing temps...and over 13psi...and still room to go and I'm running around 19-20* @ WOT. Plus...my IAT isn't ziptied to anywhere...it's in my rubber coupler after the TB as seen here...
So...like I ALSO TELL PEOPLE...UNLESS YOUR RUNNING UNDER A 3.4" SETUP...OR you don't care about temps and you like better throttle response and blower whine...open cone is going to win. I had my car at the track running mid 13's with track temps sitting at 132* in the blistering heat a couple years ago. I killed what knock I had on a 3.25" with race gas...and my intake temps were about that of the track...140*'s...which is stupid hot and humid. Car ran like crap. Can't win all the time can you? I also doubt a filter inside a little lunch box would have outperformed any better in that situation as well. Something else to note, SlowNA06 tested that...and gained power over a CAI...so, I bet your not getting as much air as you possibly could if you had a bigger filter/tubing...but when you actually mod your car, you can let me know how much better the open cone is when you get there. Someday.
No need...we all know it isn't modded
That's moot. He has that on there for advertising. What do you think they did all the years before they had that? Since it was just released recently. The ZZP CAI is a piece of junk anyways, just like the MSP/SLP/Wizaird. DIY a big 4" Fenderwell and shove it in the fender OR slap a filter on the TB. It really isn't rocket science.
I don't know wut this fight is you speak of.
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SlowNA06
New member
While I refuse to believe that the HAI allows the car to make significantly more (or less, for that matter) power, it provides very similar performance at a fraction of the cost. Note that this may be different at the extreme end of the mod spectrum, which I have yet to test. My suspicion is that AFR is god in this arena.
After shipping, the ZZP box intake is what, $230? (how about the k&n recharge kit, too, since it's an oil filter? Those are like $15, raising it to $255.)
How about a $25 dry cone + $220 headers for $245? Who's making more power for the same dollar?
After shipping, the ZZP box intake is what, $230? (how about the k&n recharge kit, too, since it's an oil filter? Those are like $15, raising it to $255.)
How about a $25 dry cone + $220 headers for $245? Who's making more power for the same dollar?
footballplaya3k
New member
When you're at a track does it sit and heat soak or can you drive around for 5 minutes to get your intake temps back down. Like I said I would love to see your back to back track runs.
I never said your IAT was ziptied on I said that's what you tell the noobs to do.
The dyno testing you're talking about in no way compares to real life. You don't have your hood open with a huge fan blowing air on your motor at the track so that is completely irrelevant.
How I see it, unless all you do is roll race the best intake you can have is a true CAI, cost aside. Blue must be a pro roll racer.
I never said your IAT was ziptied on I said that's what you tell the noobs to do.
The dyno testing you're talking about in no way compares to real life. You don't have your hood open with a huge fan blowing air on your motor at the track so that is completely irrelevant.
How I see it, unless all you do is roll race the best intake you can have is a true CAI, cost aside. Blue must be a pro roll racer.
JoRoW99
New member
Just go out a buy a 45* rubber bend and cut it in half. Its like a couple dollars and IMO is better than sticking some pvc into the restrictive part. mine went straight onto the throttle body with a hose clamp, and the 4" pvc goes right into that. but im changing to open cone after my top swap.
As for the IAT, i drilled a hole in the rubber bend and it fits like a glove.
As for the IAT, i drilled a hole in the rubber bend and it fits like a glove.
footballplaya3k
New member
My personal experience has been me shaving .2 in the quarter and losing 6* of KR. If I didn't have a good experience with the ZZP CAI I wouldn't be defending it.
footballplaya3k
New member
Over a HAI like you guys say to use, like I previously said in post 24
SlowNA06
New member
Are you using a canned tune? A canned tune, unless otherwise specifically ordered, would likely be set for the restriction imposed by a box or fenderwell, since the "open cone" movement has only recently gained popularity among GP mod-ers -- it's assumed that you would not use open cone.
Did you re-tune for the intake change? What AFR were you running WOT? If you do not know this because you do not have a wideband gauge, then you have absolutely no valid argument and no reason to being "ambient air temps" into this before mentioning AFR. AFR is GOD.
My best guess would be that your car was tuned for a cai or fenderwell by your tune vendor, so when you stuck an open cone on it, you got too much air in and ran too lean. So when you stuck a box on, it's air restriction "fixed" your wrong tune by letting you scoot the AFR a tad richer, allowing the engine to make more power.
Edit: I want to make sure I'm getting the right idea across: Until your build is extreme, I do not believe that either intake is a superior performer by its own merits. Rather, it is the tune, which dictates the AFR, that will decide what kind of power/power-failure [read: knock ->timing retard] you make.
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