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bluegtp91 said:
If your looking for more at this point a top swap can be had for well less than a grand but you WILL need headers.
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No offense, but that is bullcrap. The hard parts may cost well less than a grand, but the other misc parts you will need should add up to more than what the parts cost. assuming you dont use duct tape for everything.
 
JoRoW99 said:
No offense, but that is bullcrap. The hard parts may cost well less than a grand, but the other misc parts you will need should add up to more than what the parts cost. assuming you dont use duct tape for everything.
Click to expand...

Your kidding?

Your logic on that one was bullcrap because I can buy a running L67 engine off of CL or somewhere for about $500...or a L67 with a spun rod bearing or toasted bottom end for even cheaper.

So...ya, 110% not bullcrap. I could top swap a car for 500 bucks...and with a grand I'd have a cam, headers, and a tune.
 
I picked up a Hand-ported/CNC Gen 3 with Gasket-matched LIM and Heads, brackets, boost gauge, trans temp gauge, WBS MPS with 3.8 & 3.4 and all the rest to make it run for $475 shipped. My gaskets, belts, and odds/ends cost about $200, since that is oil-pan to valve-cover. If you know someone who can tune it, and has experience, that should only run about $100. Top Swap's do not need headers, however I would Strongly recommend a set; it's a waste putting a blower on something and not being able to evacuate the spent gases. As for transmission stuff, build a DIY shift kit. Overall, it was cheap for about a 60% WHP gain. You probably have that much tied up in your cam and HV3... I'm saving my N/A stuff for a turbo Intrigue. Just my $0.02
 
I would never run a high compression motor and boost without optimal flow mods...running high compression without headers is like tossing a 3.4" on a stock L67...is it doable? Sure. Is it safe? Probably not.
 


I top swapped my car for less then a grand.

But then spent well over a grand on headers, tune, gauges, port work, and paint.

Top swapping a car for less then a grand is easy but getting everything else to properly run and watch your top swap is what will cost you.
 
Gasket kit from Wbodystore -$300
2 oil changes- $40
Coolant $15
Vac line $15
Belts $30
coolant elbows $5
Valve Seals $20
SC oil $10
Spark Plugs $10
rocker bolts $20
Tune unless you plan on running with a canned one with the wbody gasket kit ~$100

Injector connectors if you have an 01+ $40
Headers - $175
Most people will tell you to get the heads checked also before you but them on.

Thats about $750 not counting head work and assuming you run into no problems. add that to your hard parts.

I wouldnt consider a top swap complete without all that because you need them to drive the car pretty much.

Im not saying you cant get all the hard parts for super cheap, its the rest that screws you.
 
You can get the rebuild gasket kit from your local auto parts store for around 150 bucks...that is one place that is screwing ya. Also...injector connectors? That's for '04+ EV injector cars.

Also...if your coolant is good prior to the swap...not sure why'd you replace it. Also...DHP Tuning is free if you DIY it or you know someone that can get it done.
 
You need injector connectors for 01+ cars. My friend just did his and he needed them. But he didnt know because no one told him/ knew about it. i even tried connecting my L67 injectors to my L36 wiring harness. Doesnt work. And im gonna have to check the parts store to see if i can find something like that. the gasket kit may seem more expensive because it also comes with a canned tune also. And dont you have to pay to unlock the PCM? And i dont know anyone who would like to tune my car for free.
 


Okay, let me start out with what my mods were when I was NA:

ZZP tuned PCM
ZZP GT1 cam
ZZP Stage 2.5 heads
.690 pushrods
.045 head gaskets
105# valve springs
valve spring retainers
TOG Headers
P&P LIM
Aluminum LIM gaskets
10.3mm spark plug wires
NGK TR55's (.060 gap)
ZZP Stage 1 T/B
ZZP W/P UDP
180* drilled thermostat
shift kit
custom 2.5" exhaust with no cat
O2 Emulator
HV3
Poly Motor Mounts
ZZP Race Battery

With all of that, I made 222whp on ZZP's dyno. If you figure that we have 20% drivetrain loss, that equals about 278 crank hp. If you think that maybe that's generous and we actually have 25% drivetrain loss, then that comes out to 296 crank hp. My best 1/4 mile time was a 14.4@95mph and that was when the Monte made 205whp. I did run the Monte after it made 222whp, but with bad tires and both of my rear calipers locked up, I could only run a best of 14.7@94mph. Also, you don't need bigger injectors.

I don't post this to discourage you, but I post it all to show you what all you have to do in order to make 300 crank hp. With 20% drivetrain loss you would need 240whp (which would be the second best EVER FWD 3800 dyno behind a stroked 3800), or with 25% you would need 225whp (doable, but VERY expensive).

The GT1 cam is fine if you go boosted. Both the L67 and L36 have the same cam from the factory. However, don't get rockers. With our engines, you get either rockers OR a cam. I'm still running the GT1 cam with my Novi 1000, so you would be fine if you kept it, but you could get more power with a different cam that is suited for your setup (as could I).

I hope that helps put things into perspective for you. You have a LOT of work to do to get to 300 crank hp, or if you top swap, you'll be there instantly.
 
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