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Topswap vs. L32 swap

Dtrick22

Dtrick22

New member
For the past few months I’ve been thinking of a topswap or L32 swap. I’ve gotten loads of topswap info and now have a much better understanding thanks to a helpful local member.. I can’t decide which is the better decision and I need some help/persuasion. I can get all the hard parts for the topswap locally for $200. All the other misc parts (gaskets, belts, pulley, head bolts, harness, etc) would probably be another $300. and another $200 ish for used headers. I figure in total it will run me about $800-900 assuming I run into a problem, which wouldn’t be surprising. My motor has 136K on it, don't know if it is a great candidate for it, if it gets tuned right I don't think there would be problems but who knows... just did the LIM gasket last month, if I had the money at the time I would have done it then since it was open.

I can pick up an L32 locally with 75K for $800 (I’ll try to talk them down, might have a friend who knows the yard.) I know I will need an L67 rail, injectors, a tune, throttle body, grind down the subframe, and a few sensors that don’t match up…So I figure that would put me at $1100 (estimating)
My last option is to try and find an L67 in a yard for around $500…. I’m just looking for input on what others think my best options is, hoping to hear from people who have been there done that.

The positive side to spending more and getting another motor is I’ll always have my original L36 as backup if one failed… and if I really wanted could sell to make some money back…I know I’ve missed a few small parts that will be needed but I’m not making a shopping list. Hopefully someone has some input, I don’t want it to turn into a heated argument about what is better, I want to know what you would choose and why. Also, not looking to make it a racecar, I'm just sick of being NA and slow
 


heads must go to machine shop before car.

figure another 200-300 for that.

L32 would be nice.

Low compression is more tolerant to your tune being off.

You also get the Gen V from the get go.
 
That Canadian Guy said:
heads must go to machine shop before car.

figure another 200-300 for that.

L32 would be nice.

Low compression is more tolerant to your tune being off.

You also get the Gen V from the get go.
Click to expand...

Yeah I don't know HP numbers topswap's are putting out off the top of my head but since L32's put out 260 stock I would imagine the topswap being slightly lower....It's a mighty tempting choice
 
top swap with headers would make plenty of power.

I could barely run a 3.8 pulley with just headers.

GTP injectors run static around a 3.4/3.3 with high compression so figure roughly a top swapped car would be equivalent to a low compression with a .2 smaller pulley.
 
Are you glad you did your swap or would you have done it differently now that you can look back....None of this is cheap but its not like I'm doing it tomorrow so that makes it easier on my wallet, put a little aside here and there.
 
I would have built the engine properly.

I would have bought/done the following:

SFI balancer (not necessary but the used one i bought failed and i spent $160 on a new stock one because it was available locally. 300 buys a metal balancer.)

Had heads cleaned up and possibly ported. ( Compression is messed up on the rear bank. Either its the head or my prep.)

Installed a VS cam. ( more power, mild cam, better fuel economy than any other cam minus the stock yet better top end than stock)

Double roller (stock is $190, double is $200, no brainer really)

105 springs. ( so i can rev to 6000 and not worry about float.)

gen V. (so i dont have to worry about the rotor coating peeling.)

zzp headers. (So i dont have to deal with cheap flex pipe, poor fit, poor quality metal)

Borla catback. (because borla sounds awesome and wont rot, unlike the new stock catback i put on.)
 
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if i did it all again, i would do a L67 swap again. the high compression blocks just dont like boost that much.
 
Bio248 said:
if i did it all again, i would do a L67 swap again. the high compression blocks just dont like boost that much.
Click to expand...

I feel like I could get one pretty cheap since theres one in every yard then mild build it and get about the same results for less money. Rockers, LS6 springs, tune, and headers to start....and still have my backup motor.
 
dont let anyone stop you from going high compression. that and 3.29s really help the car to move around under light throttle in comparison to the low compression blocks with 2.93s. however, if youre making enough power both setups should run nose to nose, but the high compression block will just be doing it on less boost.
 
A high compression block will always make more power than a low compression block with an M90 feeding it.

There is nothing "weaker" or "doesnt like boost" about the high compression blocks. Zoom took one into the 10s, many have taken them into the low 11s daily... I have taken one in a fiero to 135 trap speeds.
 


If you can get a complete L32 w/ the Gen V blower for $800.... Do that , I wouldn't even second guess the top swap.... the Gen V itself usually goes for $500+, so you would only be spending $300+fluids to get a much lower mileage short block......

Or you could buy the L32, sell the blower for $500+ and just run it with a Gen III blower that you could pick up for $150 - $250

And if I could go back, I would have just swapped the motor instead of top swapping, but most of that is due to the issues with the heads that I have on my car
 
if anyone pays $500 or more for a genV they are not very smart. you can get them for $350 or less all day long.
 
That Canadian Guy said:
Why is it always the heads...:th_shakinghead2:
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Yeah I've heard that too many times, nothing would piss me off more than getting it together and having head probelms....Also, is it as common for the Series III motors to spin a bearing? I know its mostly how it was cared for but seems like I see way more Series II motors going because of that
 
Matt...

You and your guesses about fuel economy...Cam choice really does nothing...I get the same MPG's with an XP as I do with my TEP cam. So...if I was to go high compression...I would skip all this blower junk and either snail it or CSC it...and maybe I'll show you all how its done in Iowa...snailed blue car? :D

Forealz.
 


Theres a lot of things people are not telling you about the extra things youll need for the top swap. they are little, but they add up quickly.

Gaskets-$300
Injector connectors
Oil
Coolant
Vac line
Belts
Coolant elbows
Valve Seals (might as well, they are cheap)
Thermostat
Spark Plugs
S/C oil
rocker bolts
L67 MAP

That^ is assuming you basically have a 100% complete L67 to take parts off of. I would just put the L32 in, or L67, port it, and have more money for mods. you can always get a Gen V later.
 
JoRoW99 said:
Theres a lot of things people are not telling you about the extra things youll need for the top swap. they are little, but they add up quickly.
Click to expand...

I know what is needed for the swap. If you go back to my original post I stated "I know I’ve missed a few small parts that will be needed but I’m not making a shopping list." It's just to compare options, and get people's idea of what they would choose so I don't look back and wish I did something else....
I've gotten good responses so far, I'm starting to think a full motor swap is the way to go, whether it be L32 or L67, that way I've got my current motor to fall back on or sell....and use that money for some other stuff if I want
 
or you can swap an L32 lim and blower and be cool like me :)

no really tho, tuning is a pita, even when i added rockers in the mix. 1.9 rr's/headers/N*

My injectors were going static trying to run a 3.6 HA!

your also going to want to try and run a minimum of 15-16* of timing. You will be slow unless your modded more heavily. My times at the track were slower than your typical 3.4" pullied cars.
 
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