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Distributor O-Ring leak. $2500!?

R

rw53104

New member
My 1994 Grand Prix GTP (3.4L DOHC) has developed an oil leak. Took it to the shop and came back with a $2500 estimate to fix it. Has anyone heard of problems with a leak from the O-Ring where the distributor is? One forum said this is where the distributor is on the 3.1L, but since it is not there on the 3.4L there is just a plug with an O-Ring.

Apparently to replace this seal, one must remove rear head and cylinders, which involved removing the cams, etc.

If anyonehas any information on this problem any help is appreciated. Spending $2500 on a car I paid $2300 for is not an idea that makes me happy.
 


Well it looks like, hopefully, I found an easy solution to my problem. I'll post again after trying this:

3.4L DOHC motor... YOU GOT... an OIL LEAK? The dealer/mechanic says it's an expensive repair (400 - to over 1000)? Saying the head needs to be removed to repair it? That is all true, but there's a SECRET FIX I'll get to later. To clarify your oil leak IS THE SAME as what I'm mentioning: it's an O-ring that almost always fails, it's on the oil pump shaft (1 hint is if leak is worse with engine on, drips from 2 or more spots approx inline with (but way below) the dipstick) follow the drip to source. This oil pump shaft is located where the distributor shaft on most GM V-6's is located. Due to the DOHC this leak is deep in the center of the motor (almost, if not, impossible to see). DEALER-REPAIR-BY-THE-BOOK the intake comes out along with 4 cams, front of motor, timing belt AND 1 head (mechanic then wants to do BOTH heads). HOWEVER the SECRET FIX is you need only remove the intake manifold and fuel injection rail. Remove the retaining clip, the shaft can pull up at least 1/4" JUST ENOUGH to thoroughly clean surfaces in between (originally no gasket there). It's a tight spot and it IS an oil pump so removing all oil/residue takes time and diligence. Now, get a round gasket that will fit covering the flat surface around the shaft. You need to slit the gasket or probably go with 2 halves to allow the gasket to be dry-fit nicely into position. AGAIN it's GOTTA-BE-CLEAN. Remove gasket, apply gasket sealer to engine block where gasket sits, apply sealer to bottom of gasket, set into position, using sliver of plastic, stick or Q-tip apply sealer to top of gasket and the collar piece that sets back down onto gasket, tighten, wipe excess, let sealer set. IF done right: getting it all CLEAN and your gasket is a good fit and went into position nicely this fix should last as long as the motor does. good luck, if you pull it off it saves A lot of time and MONEY! Not naming names, but if you're wondering this fix CAME FROM DEALER MECHANICS if/when their serevice-writer & customer's OK them to go-for-it, try the EZ fix (if mechanic was good IT-WAS-ALL-GOOD!
---------------------------------------------------------------
The language is a little wierd... But The instructions are clear.

Any comments on this?
 
Excellent information. So the dealership quotes you $2500 to fix this and says they have to remove all this stuff including the heads, but in reality they can do it this way saving tons of labor hours?

Why does that not surprise me. But just the same, glad you found a solution to the problem.
 
It was quoted by a mechanic shop, I don't even want to think about what the dealer would charge. But yeah, it sounds like there's an easier way to do it than the way they are trained. Ah well.
 
I did the same process of the above article about 8 months ago in my driveway. Worked perfectly. Just take your time and get it clean and oil free before you start. I also only used the great stuff gasket maker and no paper or rubber gasket. My oil leak before this quick fix was crazy bad. 1 quart everyday. I drive alot too. Now no leaking oil. AMAZING..TOOK AN HOUR TO DO!
 


I had the same issue. had to tear things down to removing the lower intake (what fun) and that cap, it is a pain to clean between surfaces, once I got what I could with Q-tips (par Doerr's advice) I just soaked a string in solvent and flossed around best I could, squirted some sealer in there, rotated the cap to work it around, and well, THAT oil leak stopped.

If you ever have the heads off the engine, go ahead and do it the proper way but yeah the head is right in the way of it moving more than a fraction of an inch.
 
Doerr said:
A thread is never dead if someone still uses it. You must be super bored!!:th_thumbsup-wink:
Click to expand...

The knowledge still applies. I mean really, I never would have thought something like that would cause a leak, a distributer plug just rigged into the block?
 
i got this same problem on my 02 grand prix se. would i have to remove the same parts to get to the distributor?
 


super old thread and you have a diff motor. I think you can get to the distributor on the 3.1 by taking just the upper intake off.
 
still same leak but hopefully easyer to fix. on my DOHC i used Quick Steel Epoxy to Glue the thing shut. has been leak free for years now. JB weld would work too. but not as controllable. and if you ever had to take it out a quick hit of a hammer will break it loose.
 
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