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Intermittent dying problem with 00 GTP

ls6velless454

ls6velless454

New member
I bought this 2000 GTP about 2 months ago and the car has 115000 miles on it. The guy I bought the car off of said he replaced the maf sensor. For some reason when I go to start the car it will start and turn over, and then misfire really bad. Earlier the car smelled like gas. The main thing I noticed was when it was missing and running badly the car was making a loud intake noise. This happened once last week and of again this past week. I went and checked the alternator and battery. They both tested good, and checked to see if it was throwing a check engine light, and it passed with no codes. The weirdest thing is that car will run good......then out of nowhere idle at 500 rpms and then die, and the only way I can start it is by giving it gas. So the car will miss and die and then out of no where start running normal again. I'm assuming because these conditions it's gonna either be the maf, because they replaced it with a bad reman, the tps, or map sensor. When I got to my girlfriends the car started running good again, and I unplugged the maf and the car still runs the same with no check engine light codes. Can someone please help me out here.
 


Sound like a CPS to me, had the same stalling problem. My tach would quit working and mys TCS light would come on when it happened.
 
Thanks to both of you guys is there any possibility it can be the camshaft position sensor, or anything else I just looked at the write up and it's not a simply sensor replacement. I wish this car would just throw this code already! I finally get a car that's OBD2 and it never throws codes until it starts misfiring and sputtering down the street out of no where. Well if you guys are that confident this is the problem I will get this changed asap
 
ls6velless454 said:
Thanks to both of you guys is there any possibility it can be the camshaft position sensor, or anything else I just looked at the write up and it's not a simply sensor replacement. I wish this car would just throw this code already! I finally get a car that's OBD2 and it never throws codes until it starts misfiring and sputtering down the street out of no where. Well if you guys are that confident this is the problem I will get this changed asap
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I replaced mine a few months ago. I replaced both the cam and crank sensor; it is not too tough get to, but I would rather not go digging into it twice. Pull the wheel off, pull the fender skirt, pull the harmonic balancer...using the M6 bolts and a few washers plus a pulley puller, replace sensors, reverse. Set aside two hours and you will be able to take your time doing it.
 
After dealing with the problem more I found out that it is the mass air flow sensor. The car would die randomly and I unplugged the maf and the car runs. So I'm assuming it's the mass air flow sensor. Especially because it's a remanufactored one and the plastic top is coming off.
 


IS the CPS related to the tach dying? Mine does this now and then....it will just drop, and not reset until the car is shut off and back on again.

Edit: I guess it does. I pulled a TCS light a few months ago, had it reset and it never came back. guess I should get it replaced.

Symptoms of a bad or failed Crankshaft Position Sensor :
No spark at plugs
Engine will run and suddenly die without warning
Engine will not or not easily restart
Tachometer may drop to zero but the car will continue to run, may also result in the TCS light coming on
 
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Y2KGTP said:
I read the how-to. Is this that hard to do on your own? I would have to go buy a puller......
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The how-to should make it look pretty easy. You can have it done in an evening with time to spare. No need to buy the puller, just rent one for free from the local parts store.
 
JoshMcMadMac said:
The how-to should make it look pretty easy. You can have it done in an evening with time to spare. No need to buy the puller, just rent one for free from the local parts store.
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Yeah, I red it once again and looks like a no brainer. Puller is only 20$ so don't mind picking it up. Just have to order\find the special bolts for the puller.

Also looks like the part is 30$ on eBay as well. My inlaws have a repair shop in FL (IL here) and told me the Napa part cost for them is 40.xx
 


Y2KGTP said:
Yeah, I red it once again and looks like a no brainer. Puller is only 20$ so don't mind picking it up. Just have to order\find the special bolts for the puller.

Also looks like the part is 30$ on eBay as well. My inlaws have a repair shop in FL (IL here) and told me the Napa part cost for them is 40.xx
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You can get the bolts from Lowes or any hardware store; I think they are M6. I would get the part off of rockauto.com before buying it off of eBay, but I prefer to get stuff like that locally for warranty purposes. I would replace the cam sensor while in there just to be safe...no sense in going back in there if it goes bad later down the road.
 
JoshMcMadMac said:
You can get the bolts from Lowes or any hardware store; I think they are M6. I would get the part off of rockauto.com before buying it off of eBay, but I prefer to get stuff like that locally for warranty purposes. I would replace the cam sensor while in there just to be safe...no sense in going back in there if it goes bad later down the road.
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I might replace that one as well. It would be a good idea.....


EDIT:

I looked on Rock auto, and the image just did not look right.....maybe wrong search?

mypicture3i.jpg
 
Y2KGTP said:
I might replace that one as well. It would be a good idea.....


EDIT:

I looked on Rock auto, and the image just did not look right.....maybe wrong search?

mypicture3i.jpg
Click to expand...

Yea, you have to look at the part where it says "connector" and realize that they are selling you a "connector" not a sensor. Look under the ignition category; both the cam and crank sensor are there. Do a quick Google for a 5% discount code, too.
 
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