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subs facing back seat

gtpinsc

gtpinsc

resident snitch
Ive ALWAYS had my subs facing to the rear of the trunk all my life... last week i took my box out to vacuum the trunk. 2 digital designs 1510's in a vented box on 500 watt memphis class D... well i decided to put them in facing the back seat... IMO the sound was better (with back console open) than the traditional facing to the rear... my highs and mids seemed to be more crisp and clear at loud volumes than with the traditional way. Trunk rattle almost completely went away also. anyone else have subs in this position?
 


I tried this in my 2 dr Cavalier (2 MTX 12" 8000's and MTX1500 watt amp) and it definitely took the rattling away, but just never sounded right. I think not having the truck to bouce off of really killed the sound. I tried it a few times and always ended up putting them back towards the rear, but then again I know people with other setups facing forward and it sounded good.
 
I have a single sub in a sealed enclosure facing forward via the pass-through in the rear seat. There is no rattle, and to me it sounds better than it facing the rear of the car.

In the near future, I will make a new box, but down-firing (sealed), and the opening only out into the cabin of the car via the pass-through.

I only have 250 watts to my 8 inch sub, but it is a JL 8W7. Sometimes I want more (500w 10w7/10w6), but it compliments my 4x5.25 mids very well, You cant tell that it is behind you, the lows fill the entire cabin.

I prefer SQ over SPL.
 
If u like the way it sounds leave it or try and seal it off from the trunk? but u might gain some extra db facing it to the trunk?
 
Point subs towards the greatest air volume. into the trunk, or into the cabin if you have pass thru or 60/40.... 2x12" P. Miller DVC's, one sealed, one in a 4th order band pass box and 500w RMS each. In a minivan. Say ow?
 


Pointed towards the back will be the loudest but if you don't want to leave the pass through open then remove your 6x9s and open up that hole as much as possible otherwise you'll end up with a very poor bandpass box.

Pointed forwards will have cancellation issues with the back of the trunk.

THIS IS WHY SUBS SHOULD FIRE DIRECTLY INTO THE CABIN.

Moving on...

Perhaps your mids and highs are clearer because your sub isn't as loud?

Also, you may have your sub crossover set too high. 50 Hz is the highest you can get without localization but 80 Hz is a decent compromise. If you have to run higher than that, you need a better midbass solution.
 
i used to have my sub in the rear seat pass through facing the inside of the car. looked cool, and it fit perfect cuz of my box design. i ended up blowing that sub and went to my audio guy. he explained to me the physics of the sound waves and the idea is that you want them to bounce off as many surfaces as possible before they hit your ears. the way mine was set up, the sound waves had nothing to bounce off of. set of rear facing subs in a dynomatted trunk is the way to go. hands down.
 
01gtspecial said:
i used to have my sub in the rear seat pass through facing the inside of the car. looked cool, and it fit perfect cuz of my box design. i ended up blowing that sub and went to my audio guy. he explained to me the physics of the sound waves and the idea is that you want them to bounce off as many surfaces as possible before they hit your ears. the way mine was set up, the sound waves had nothing to bounce off of. set of rear facing subs in a dynomatted trunk is the way to go. hands down.
Click to expand...

LMFAO!@!#

Maybe for bass.... Not for anything else. EVERY other speaker should have as few reflections as possible.

Dynomatt? Thats going to do NOTHING other than make your trunk heavier. What you need to do is find a way to have the sub firing directly into the cabin with a somewhat airtight seal.

If you don't want to do that, then find a way to make the trunk lid stay put. And no, dynomat doesnt do that. It just makes it heavier which lowers the resonant frequency of the trunk lid. Unless of course you use it to wedge between the top of the lid and the seal...

The only thing that tames sound is cornings 707 and similar products. They turn sound into heat. THAT is how you handle resonances.

That "pro" is just trying to sell you ****, not help you. :th_laugh-pointup:
 
matt5112 said:
Pointed towards the back will be the loudest but if you don't want to leave the pass through open then remove your 6x9s and open up that hole as much as possible otherwise you'll end up with a very poor bandpass box.

Pointed forwards will have cancellation issues with the back of the trunk.

THIS IS WHY SUBS SHOULD FIRE DIRECTLY INTO THE CABIN.

Moving on...

Perhaps your mids and highs are clearer because your sub isn't as loud?

Also, you may have your sub crossover set too high. 50 Hz is the highest you can get without localization but 80 Hz is a decent compromise. If you have to run higher than that, you need a better midbass solution.
Click to expand...

The problem with a mid speaker is that it doesn't typically do mid bass and mid range extremely well. You pick your poison. It's either great as a mid range + ok as mid-bass or vice versa.
 
personally i like them facing the trunk. its louder and thats what i like.

im not into the crisp clean sounds. I like to hit hard.
 


I800C0LLECT said:
The problem with a mid speaker is that it doesn't typically do mid bass and mid range extremely well. You pick your poison. It's either great as a mid range + ok as mid-bass or vice versa.
Click to expand...

Or a woofer for 200 Hz and below and one for 200 Hz through 2-3 KHz placed AS CLOSE as possible to one another.
 
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