ninnyGTP
New member
Things needed:
7mm
8mm
10mm
13mm
15mm
18mm
19mm
Flathead screwdriver
Fuel line seperator
a few 5" extensions to spare
Cherry picker
Pry bar
L67 (obviously)
1. Alright, where to start haha. First things first, removing the harness. Injectors you simply push the clip in and pull up. everything else (ie. maf, iat, fans, egr, evap, etc.) are just pull up style clips. Make sure to get them all. Knock sensor, speed sensor, both o2 sensors are all located in the passenger wheel well. Also while you're at it. Be sure to get the vacuum lines and fuel lines
2. Next is the mounts and what not. Dog bones are 13mm, dog bone brackets, motor mount is two 15mm. If you have an STB, that's 4x 13mm bolts to remove
3. Disconnect the throttle cables and intake piping. Go around to the passenger side and seperate the power steering pump (2x 13mm's) and a/c compressor (5x 15mm's) from the block.
4. While you're on the driverside go ahead and remove the 4 18mm bolts holding the trans to the motor. Once done, go around to the passenger side with a few extensions and through the wheel well start feeding them through to get the last trans bolt just under the rear exhaust manifold.
5. Almost ready to be pulled. Go ahead and hop under the car to do that last few things. DP is two 13mm's. Can be a pain to get to even with extensions. Next, the tq converter/flex plate bolts. They can be a bit difficult as the motor will turn with any bit of pulling to the left or right. there's two ways to go about this. You can either have someone stand up top with a 24mm and a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt to keep it from spinning, or you can wedge a screwdriver in between the starter and flexplate teeth
6. Motor is ready to be pulled. Simply attach the engine hoist to the two support brackets. One is located on the passenger rear just beside the firewall and the other on the driverside front next to the driverside fan.
7. Before pulling, with a big screwdriver or some sort of prying tool, seperate the trans from the motor.. Make sure to leave it wedged as you're going to need to keep the flexplate clear from the trans bellhousing when pulling.
8. Once the motor is out you're going to need to grab a few things off of it before you continue. First is the MAP sensor. Located on the left side on the upper intake manifold/plenum on top of the PCV. Be careful when removing as it can seperate into two pieces.
9. Next thing is the flexplate. The L67 uses a larger torque converter (258mm instead of the L36's 245mm) so the bolt holes will not line up. There's 10 15mm bolts if I recall holding this in place.
10. Lastly is the simplest, the plastic fuel line connectors on the fuel rail. L67 uses a 4 point metal connector while the L36 only has two point plastic ones Should just come off by prying a screwdriver between them and the fuel rail ends.
11. Once the L36 flexplate is attatched, the L67 is ready to go in...
12. Drop the motor in slowly making sure to not catch any of the harness or fuel/vacuum lines.Can be tough trying to line the motor up to the trans while trying to get the two motor mount bolts in the holes.
13. repeat the previous steps 5 and up backward to finish up
14. Once you get to the fuel rail remember to attach the plastic connectors so you can use the stock fuel lines.
15. Next is the MAP sensor. Normally the L67 MAP sensor mounts in the back and also has a different connector. The simple solution is to just take the line leading to the BBV solenoid and plug it into the L36 MAP sensor.
16. While talking about the BBV solenoid, just unhook the vacuum line leading from the actual solenoid to the sensor and throw the sensor away. I've done this to both my GTP and SE and no codes are poped and also runs just the same.
18. You're done! add fluid and hopefully it starts.
Also, just for a little visual, here are some pics as well as video updates from when I did this.
YouTube - L67 Swapped 2000 SE [Pt.1]
YouTube - L67 Swapped 2000 SE [Pt.2]
YouTube - L67 Swapped 2000 SE [Pt.4]
7mm
8mm
10mm
13mm
15mm
18mm
19mm
Flathead screwdriver
Fuel line seperator
a few 5" extensions to spare
Cherry picker
Pry bar
L67 (obviously)
1. Alright, where to start haha. First things first, removing the harness. Injectors you simply push the clip in and pull up. everything else (ie. maf, iat, fans, egr, evap, etc.) are just pull up style clips. Make sure to get them all. Knock sensor, speed sensor, both o2 sensors are all located in the passenger wheel well. Also while you're at it. Be sure to get the vacuum lines and fuel lines
2. Next is the mounts and what not. Dog bones are 13mm, dog bone brackets, motor mount is two 15mm. If you have an STB, that's 4x 13mm bolts to remove
3. Disconnect the throttle cables and intake piping. Go around to the passenger side and seperate the power steering pump (2x 13mm's) and a/c compressor (5x 15mm's) from the block.
4. While you're on the driverside go ahead and remove the 4 18mm bolts holding the trans to the motor. Once done, go around to the passenger side with a few extensions and through the wheel well start feeding them through to get the last trans bolt just under the rear exhaust manifold.
5. Almost ready to be pulled. Go ahead and hop under the car to do that last few things. DP is two 13mm's. Can be a pain to get to even with extensions. Next, the tq converter/flex plate bolts. They can be a bit difficult as the motor will turn with any bit of pulling to the left or right. there's two ways to go about this. You can either have someone stand up top with a 24mm and a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt to keep it from spinning, or you can wedge a screwdriver in between the starter and flexplate teeth
6. Motor is ready to be pulled. Simply attach the engine hoist to the two support brackets. One is located on the passenger rear just beside the firewall and the other on the driverside front next to the driverside fan.
7. Before pulling, with a big screwdriver or some sort of prying tool, seperate the trans from the motor.. Make sure to leave it wedged as you're going to need to keep the flexplate clear from the trans bellhousing when pulling.
8. Once the motor is out you're going to need to grab a few things off of it before you continue. First is the MAP sensor. Located on the left side on the upper intake manifold/plenum on top of the PCV. Be careful when removing as it can seperate into two pieces.
9. Next thing is the flexplate. The L67 uses a larger torque converter (258mm instead of the L36's 245mm) so the bolt holes will not line up. There's 10 15mm bolts if I recall holding this in place.
10. Lastly is the simplest, the plastic fuel line connectors on the fuel rail. L67 uses a 4 point metal connector while the L36 only has two point plastic ones Should just come off by prying a screwdriver between them and the fuel rail ends.
11. Once the L36 flexplate is attatched, the L67 is ready to go in...
12. Drop the motor in slowly making sure to not catch any of the harness or fuel/vacuum lines.Can be tough trying to line the motor up to the trans while trying to get the two motor mount bolts in the holes.
13. repeat the previous steps 5 and up backward to finish up
14. Once you get to the fuel rail remember to attach the plastic connectors so you can use the stock fuel lines.
15. Next is the MAP sensor. Normally the L67 MAP sensor mounts in the back and also has a different connector. The simple solution is to just take the line leading to the BBV solenoid and plug it into the L36 MAP sensor.
16. While talking about the BBV solenoid, just unhook the vacuum line leading from the actual solenoid to the sensor and throw the sensor away. I've done this to both my GTP and SE and no codes are poped and also runs just the same.
18. You're done! add fluid and hopefully it starts.
Also, just for a little visual, here are some pics as well as video updates from when I did this.
YouTube - L67 Swapped 2000 SE [Pt.1]
YouTube - L67 Swapped 2000 SE [Pt.2]
YouTube - L67 Swapped 2000 SE [Pt.4]
Last edited:
