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Leak-Free Pacesetter Modification

blueguy

blueguy

The Blue One
So I guess here is a nice thread about having your cake and eating it too. Budget headers that don't leak and you'll put the expense header guys out of business as the Pacesetter's are pretty large primary wise too... it wasn't a great deal to start with, I will say that...I guess you can compare it to the Whipple in it's "PITA-ness". There was a lot of trial and error...I had a bunch of issues with it before I got it totally 100% gripe free...and it started after I installed the them.

I was hot lapping at our local track one night...car was running great, consistent 13.4's or lower and on my last run I torqued the motor so much off the line I blew the collector clean off...after that it never sealed as good, so I went to the exhaust shop and he un-did the clamps and welded my collector to the crossover and the rear header. Keep in mind I still had the 3-bolt flange down there. Well all was great, no more leaking...then I developed a tick from the 3-bolt flange. I got over it and a few months later I bought a lowering kit and installed the shortened dog-bones as well. Don't do this!!! Turned out with the shorter dog bones it pulled the 3-bolt collector UPwards and everytime there was even the slightest bit of load on the motor it would grind/bang against the floorboard. Especially when you would shift it from Park to Rev. or Drive it would "BANG" against the floorboard. No bueno :(

SO...got rid of the shorter dog bones thinking that would solve it. WRONG. Made it worse...no idea...so we pulled the whole piece out and cut off the top bolt...it leaked more but didn't hit the floorboard anymore. I'd like to stop and thank Jay (Abrasive) for a second because he lost probably 10 years of hearing off of his life beating at the downpipe and floorboard with a power hammer for about an hour. THANKS MAN!!:th_thumbsup-wink:

Took her back to the exhaust shop again and had the bottom 2 bolts removed...he cut out the lower flange on the downpipe/flex and welded the upper flange to the downpipe. Keep in mind all of this was done on the car. Now when I toasted my motor a few months ago, we thought it was going to be utter hell on wheels to get it out. Well...it wasn't really to our surprise. I unbolted it from the catback...and undid the o2 harness leaving the sensor in there. Removed the rear valve cover and all of the crap back there (eg. rockers/springs/retainers/pushrods/sensors, etc.), bent the tranny dipstick out of the way and after I unbolted the rear header...just yanked it all right out in one piece...and then you have those pics after the removal.

All in all I love it...I have a 2 piece header system just like ZZP's Stainless Slipfit headers but for nearly half the price. Only other advise I'd give ya is just get new GM metal manifold gaskets and A LOT of red high-temp RTV for the front header to crossover connection. Oh...and if you are installing them for the first time, be sure to mock them up and mark them if you are going to have them welded OFF of the car as I said, all of this was done ON the car. Cost me about $50 to have it all welded. Another thing is if you do not have a bolt-up portion after the downpipe then I would find a stock catback and get one. Without being able to unbolt the catback this will not be possible. I had to do this as I had the entire system welded as one piece...never again.

Here are the pics after I removed them from the car. I wish I would have gotten a few more shots as they stand but mi camera es broken-o:th_shakinghead2: Pics of them on the car will come soon and I will update this thread :th_peaceout:

DSCN0042-2.jpg


DSCN0043-1.jpg
 


Dammit, Jay is deaf now? Thanks alot man, you suck! LOL! :th_laugh-pointup:

Seriously, sounds good and I think this is the ONLY good way to make these headers work flawless for years to come. There still a damn good budget header IMO, they just need a little work to be perfect. BTW, I agree 100% in NOT deleting the rear cat-back flange, I found that out the hard way myself a few years ago. Ever since then I replaced that flange, it makes life so much better to have that connection there.

Now remove that EGR... only pussies run those......:th_laugh-lol3:
 
Oh well, you're still a puss........... LOLOL :th_laugh-lol2::th_nanana:

Whos your daddy??? :th_biggrin2::th_biggrin2::th_biggrin2:
 


I got pacesetter headers and about to install them over thanksgiving break. I have a cat and the mufflers and all the piping to do the whole custom exhaust. My uncle who knows ALOT more than me is doing it for me. I was wondering though (didnt ask him...) do I need the flex pipe in the dp? I am gonna have him make a custom one for me. Thanks!
 
I recommend that you have a flex pipe somewhere in the down pipe section. Otherwise, every time your engine rocks back and forth, the exhaust would have to flex/give somewhere. Without a flex section, you risk bending your exhaust in a spot you don't want it bent.
 
Great something else to order lol. Could I pick this up local or do I gotta ZZp it. Also should I go with 3" piping all the way back. I am top swaping my 05 gp eventually and am def doing a 3" dp but should i got 3" all the way back??? Thanks!
 



I bought the zzp pro kit and it's only reduces the amount of exhaust leak it does not fix it completely. Really anyone that decides to buy any headers your best bet is to have it welded up at some point.

But remember if you decide to have it welded together. Then decide to lower your car later on, you are likely to run into problems with something on your headers rubbing or getting twisted somewhere in the system.

So my advice is to plan ahead!!!! If you plan on doing suspension and headers (and possibly shorter dog bones which I don’t recommend with headers the clearance it the fan can cause the headers to start melting the fan or fan housing) don’t have it welded until both are installed. Doing this could save you some serious time and money.
 
^^My car is lowered...and has stock dog bones...and no rubbing issues. I also have solid lower mounts (motor/trans) and poly uppers (sqaure & circle)...so not sure what the issue is there.
 
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