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about car audio

tonyplo

New member
hey I am new here and to putting aftermarket speakers and such into cars

my stock speakers in my car went out so I decided to spend some money to get some nice ones.

So I apologize if some of these questions are stupid lol

I want to buy a new in dash radio/ reciever and replace all of the speakers in my car so 4 new ones

So first off if I am not buying any subs do I need an amplifier?
I dont think I would but i want to be sure

Does it really matter if speakers match the reciever as far as brand wise


also if you guys have any suggestions as far as what to get that would be appreciated

thanks :th_peaceout:
 


you dont need an amp but they help, the equipment doesnt have to match at all, and i would recommend alpine all the way around for a midlevel budget.
 
alright thanks man :)

also where do you buy your stuff from
just local stores or is there a site online you use
 
i use crutchfield.com for all my stuff. other places are cheaper but you get what you pay for. they send all the install stuff and directions
 
here is the set of alpine audio I have JUST replaced in my car when I went on R&R leave.
and I couldnt be more happier...BEST FREGGIN' ALPINE SET-UP!!!!

Alpine CDA-9887 CD receiver at Crutchfield Signature BUT I paid $300 bucks Brand New on Ebay.

Alpine SPR-17C (spr17c) 6-1/2" Speakers Car Speakers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix
once again off ebay


Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - SPR-69C
and off ebay lol...I think those are type-R...

ur type-G's are crap. yeah it will probably still stick out. my 9887 sits flush with the rest of the dash. you shouldn't need any speaker wire if your not hooking up an amp. I don't think you will atleast.
 


GEDC0468.jpg

cant find the picture of my HU, must be on my external harddive.
GEDC0466.jpg

and I beefed up the tweets with kicker 1" dome tweeters
 
and I beefed up the tweets with kicker 1" dome tweeters

And you must have some stupid phase issues with two tweeters so far apart. :th_scratchhead:

To the OP:

Its worth getting speakers even if you don't get an amp unless you've got the bose system which it sounds like you don't.
 
If you enter your car description on crutchfield they will send you the installation gear for free so you wont need speaker wire. And the directions tell you what needs to be removed and what tools you need. Thats why i like them.
 


Why didnt you cut out the stock mounting surface and flush mount them? (the tweeters that is )

I didn't want to physcially cut my door. Plus I'm plenty happy with 'em stickin' out alil bit, I'm fine with it.

And you must have some stupid phase issues with two tweeters so far apart. :th_scratchhead:

To the OP:

Its worth getting speakers even if you don't get an amp unless you've got the bose system which it sounds like you don't.

actually my purpose was to trash the stock tweets and just replace them.

TO THE OP: I have this setup and both my factory amps are blown, you don't need any amps but they're great to have.
 
I didn't want to physcially cut my door. Plus I'm plenty happy with 'em stickin' out alil bit, I'm fine with it.

Thats a bad idea because of relfections and other various acoustic "happenings" which I can't recall but all point to the fact that tweeters MUST be flush mounted else they will have response issues which nothing can fix.

actually my purpose was to trash the stock tweets and just replace them.

I mean theres a tweeter on the new coaxial speaker you installed combined with the one in the door. Two tweeters that far apart = bad news.
 
don't worry about the brands or an amplifier. it can be considered to be more trouble than it's worth. and you should be able to cut off the factory speaker connectors and use the wires there if you don't get an amplifier. I'd look into a good set of component 5.25 speakers in the front.
 
My only concern running off the head unit would be speaker efficiency.

Try to grab something around 92db's @1watt. Matt can give you the exact specification but sensitivity is what you're looking for...get it as high as possible when running off the head unit.

That way you won't clip your radio trying to get loud. That's where most people start "blowing" speakers.
 


Thats a bad idea because of relfections and other various acoustic "happenings" which I can't recall but all point to the fact that tweeters MUST be flush mounted else they will have response issues which nothing can fix.



I mean theres a tweeter on the new coaxial speaker you installed combined with the one in the door. Two tweeters that far apart = bad news.

I'm happy, there staying where they are. Sounds great to me.

and to the OP: didnt check ur links about ur alpine HU but great job with the alpine speakers, you won't be disappointed :)
 
My only concern running off the head unit would be speaker efficiency.

Try to grab something around 92db's @1watt. Matt can give you the exact specification but sensitivity is what you're looking for...get it as high as possible when running off the head unit.

That way you won't clip your radio trying to get loud. That's where most people start "blowing" speakers.

87 and 89 are a tad low. I'd aim for 90 or higher for both but it seems as you get into the more expensive components they go for less and less sensitivity and never really give you the power handling to make up for it.

To the OP: One thing I'd really like to point out is that running full range in the rear deck isn't the greatest of ideas. It causes more harm than good.

Parts Express: Featured Categories

These would pump out some serious bass with a small amount of power (100 watts per speaker). If you're looking to keep your trunk space yet want to add some bass this would be a good alternative to massive subs.

You'll find you'll run into clipping very quickly using the HU for power so if you hear distortion, turn it down because you're only harming your gear and your ears.

I'm happy, there staying where they are. Sounds great to me.

Then all is well. :th_thumbsup-wink:
 
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