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silicon instead of gasket

T

tjvdubsport

New member
has anyone tried using high temp silicon instead of the gasket that is used on the oil pan ? if so did it leak ?

i ran out of cash and dont want to spend more than 50 bucks on a gasket
 


tjvdubsport said:
has anyone tried using high temp silicon instead of the gasket that is used on the oil pan ? if so did it leak ?

i ran out of cash and dont want to spend more than 50 bucks on a gasket
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I work at a Toyota plant. We do not use gaskets for the oil pan. Use silicone thats compatible with oil.
 
you still have to reuse the gasket though, it has the windage tray, apply a small bead of silicone to both sides of the gasket and install, dont overdo it or some could break off and get inside the pickup tube. use as least as possible that you are comfortable with it sealing.
 
Yeah re use the stock gasket and silicone it up. Or else it will leak. Trust me.
 
minichopper6hp said:
you still have to reuse the gasket though, it has the windage tray, apply a small bead of silicone to both sides of the gasket and install, dont overdo it or some could break off and get inside the pickup tube. use as least as possible that you are comfortable with it sealing.
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thanks everybody for your responses :th_thumb-up:, im gonna get it fix tomorrow ...boy i just saved 50 bucks ..:th_king-normal:
 
where is it $50? the whole lower conversion set is only $28 from autozone. oh well just reuse it anyways, better off.
 


Get some of the right stuff black sealant and put it on both sides of the gasket and around all bolt holes. Should take care of all your oil leaks. You only have like 10 minutes or so before it starts to harden so you have to be quick about it.
 
NOOOO dont do that, you will NEVER be able to get it apart ever again, bad idea. Use normal ultra black rtv or equivalent.
 
minichopper6hp said:
NOOOO dont do that, you will NEVER be able to get it apart ever again, bad idea. Use normal ultra black rtv or equivalent.
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YES you can, I'VE DONE IT SO GOOD IDEA, do you even know the product I'm talking about. Most EXPERIENCED grand prix members that have been on this forum as well as clubgp, recommend this.

The shear strenght is weak so you can take a rubber mallet and tap it horizontal = no issues at all. Hell I've taken them off numerous times.

The right stuff I personally feel is superior to RTV.

http://permatex.com/products/Automo...uto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm
 


We use RTV on similar seals on jet engines, so its more than enough for a simple gasoline engine. No need for TRS.
 
That is an adhesive sealant, ive used it, never again. It forms a very high bond with the parts you use it on, you have to cut it to remove the two pieces. Dont use it.
 
Any type of sealant can be considered an adhesive as long as the sealant dries and adheres to both surfaces. Remember theirs more than 1 way to always complete a job. In all fairness, how often are you planning on removing the oil pan, you have to drop the cradle so I'm sure it's not that often. Whatever sealant you choose, make sure you get the corners of the oil pan as well as the crank end and flex plate end of the pan. These areas are especially prone to leaks and you'll see why when you pull the pan down.
 
There maybe more than one way to complete a job, but there is normally only one right way. Use normal sealant, no leaks, be done with it.
 
minichopper6hp said:
There maybe more than one way to complete a job, but there is normally only one right way. Use normal sealant, no leaks, be done with it.
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The supposed Right way is subjective and their is no proof or facts that show either way is better than the other.
 


minichopper6hp said:
Well seeing how oem spec is the right way in this case, "The Right Stuff" does not apply here.
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If you want to get technical, gm doesn't call of ANY sealent in their helms manual or their online Service Information ESI. So based off your logic, thats the only way to do the job right is not to use any sealant. Yet techs in the field recommend to use a sealant on the oil pan gasket, mainly because the steel oil pan flexes, where as the cast aluminum pans used in the L26 and L32don't flex near as much.

Do you really want to get into a pissing contest, I have lots of experience not to mention a **** load of helms manual as well as the entire ESI service information for GM vehicles.
 
Hell I'll even go the next step and prove what they recommend, so do you care to enlighten me on your proof.









 
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