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Improvement Questions.



ok. ill just have to figure out where it plugs into. another couple questions, how much does it cost to get taillights tinted by flip, and does anyone know where i can get a clear lens for the 3rd brake light, above the back seat.
 
flip quoted me $80 thats if u supply him with the tails, it all depends on how you want them done too, if he has to use his tails it's something like $200 something for core charge.
 
99prixgt said:
flip quoted me $80 thats if u supply him with the tails, it all depends on how you want them done too, if he has to use his tails it's something like $200 something for core charge.
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doesn't sound bad for as good as it is supposed to be. i have my own, got the LEDs, wanna make it blend with the black car a little more. how many coats did you get? i'm thinkin 2 or 3 is enough to make it black without being to dark during the day, also still keeping it from being seen thru with lights off.
 
bluegtp91 said:
As mods go...if I could do it all over again...I would get in any order really...

180* Thermostat
Autolite 104 Spark Plugs
PRJ 10.4mm Wires
SLP/ZZP/Pacesetter/SS Autochrome Headers (Any of them work)
Some form of Intake (K&N is junk and the SLP/Wizaird/MSP aint great either)...make your own for $50 or so...
Tuned PCM of your choice.
3.5" or 3.4" Pulley. If you want to mod past this then opt for the ZZ Performance Modular Pulley System.

Hope this helps.
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is the much more of a benefit to putting in a 160* thermostat instead. also has anyone had to put in a high flow fuel filter to keep KR down?
 
IrishNation24 said:
i couldn't find a post specific on how to install one of these. is it just something you plug in somewhere on the car and thats it?
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Hey, Scanguage plugs into the OBDII port above the gas pedal, you just plug it in and a little bit of input from you and thats it.
It's pretty good and you can move it from one car to another as long as it has the OBDII port, I think everything after 93 has it. Look it up online.
Overkill PCM's? Good luck trying to get ahold of that guy apparently all emails get stopped at the Canadian Border cause we never hear back from him.
 


IrishNation24 said:
is the much more of a benefit to putting in a 160* thermostat instead. also has anyone had to put in a high flow fuel filter to keep KR down?
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There is no such thing as a "high-flow" fuel filter. ZZP feeds people a bunch of crap on that one...someone on KCPMC had tested it awhile back. If you are going to swap a fuel filter just get a new GM one.

As for the 160* T-Stat, probably not that much of a difference keeping KR down, sure it will keep the motor a bit colder. The T-Stat temp is more so just personal preference. Only reason I have one is for all of my mods. But when the temps get colder than 50* or so outside I go back to a 180* and when they hit 50*-60* consistently in the spring, I put the 160* back in.
 
ive talked to will (overkill) a good bit. ill agree tho, sometimes he dont answer back at first, but i just forward the message back to him. hes a cool guy once you get talking to him. ive wasted alot of his time myself just chit-chating about tuning.
 
bluegtp91 said:
There is no such thing as a "high-flow" fuel filter. ZZP feeds people a bunch of crap on that one...someone on KCPMC had tested it awhile back. If you are going to swap a fuel filter just get a new GM one.
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i kinda figured that cuz i have never heard of that before, and with all the old cars ive had, ive done plenty of the basic filter change. you would think it would have to be bigger anyway.

bluegtp91 said:
As for the 160* T-Stat, probably not that much of a difference keeping KR down, sure it will keep the motor a bit colder. The T-Stat temp is more so just personal preference. Only reason I have one is for all of my mods. But when the temps get colder than 50* or so outside I go back to a 180* and when they hit 50*-60* consistently in the spring, I put the 160* back in.
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well, in florida 60* is cold to most people so i might just put a 160* in. the colder the engine, the better.

also, does anyone know if they make this scanner for 97-03, (ZZ Performance) cuz it seems pretty cool, but its only for 05+:, i thought it was pretty nice that it can tell you 0-60 times and max speeds and all that, but the main reason to get it is for the scanning, so is the aeroforce still better?
 
blowfishRus6 said:
ive talked to will (overkill) a good bit. ill agree tho, sometimes he dont answer back at first, but i just forward the message back to him. hes a cool guy once you get talking to him. ive wasted alot of his time myself just chit-chating about tuning.
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Hmmm....So he does exist eh?
 


IrishNation24 said:
i kinda figured that cuz i have never heard of that before, and with all the old cars ive had, ive done plenty of the basic filter change. you would think it would have to be bigger anyway.



well, in florida 60* is cold to most people so i might just put a 160* in. the colder the engine, the better.

also, does anyone know if they make this scanner for 97-03, (ZZ Performance) cuz it seems pretty cool, but its only for 05+:, i thought it was pretty nice that it can tell you 0-60 times and max speeds and all that, but the main reason to get it is for the scanning, so is the aeroforce still better?
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I would stick with the Aeroforce gauges...plus they do like 30 different things and can fit in a gauge pod...that = WIN for me.
 
IrishNation24 said:
the colder the engine, the better.
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Very wrong. Engine wear increases as temps drop. The difference in wear on the cylinder walls between a 180* and a 160* is substantial and can be measured if you pull the engine. That is why I personally don't run a 160*.

Info for some to chew on:

Low temp Thermostats and engine wear [Archive] - LX Forums Modern Mopar Muscle
HOTRODSRJ’s COOLING TIPS Operating temperature vs power and longevity!

Optimum wear and performance balances out around a 180* coolant temp, which with my 180* my temps are usually about 179* or up to 190* in traffic.
 
Only reason I run a 160* (you might say that is why you don't run one) but I drove my car on the daily...and even with the 160*, sitting in traffic, that thing would still get hot...but when it gets colder outside...I throw the 180* back in...
 
there is no reason to ever run a 160* thermostat....ever...

if you consider a 210* engine coolant hot then youre....dumb...
 
I don't consider it hot. I am just stating that I would rather have my car run cooler. My old car used to overheat and well...it sucked ass. I'd just rather be safe than sorry.
 


Sabrewings said:
Very wrong. Engine wear increases as temps drop. The difference in wear on the cylinder walls between a 180* and a 160* is substantial and can be measured if you pull the engine. That is why I personally don't run a 160*.

Info for some to chew on:

Low temp Thermostats and engine wear [Archive] - LX Forums Modern Mopar Muscle
HOTRODSRJ’s COOLING TIPS Operating temperature vs power and longevity!

Optimum wear and performance balances out around a 180* coolant temp, which with my 180* my temps are usually about 179* or up to 190* in traffic.
Click to expand...


thanks for the info. didnt really know about all that (obviously). Guess im so used to workin on airplane engines, and we always get complaints from pilots cuz they think its too hot and they want it to run colder, always whining about makin it colder. then again, those run hundreds, almost 1000 degrees hotter.
 
depends how much modding you have done. if youre far into boost and valvetrain mods then it is better for you to just to run an open cone.

'cold air' is only beneficial for lightly modded cars because of the roots blower that we have.
 
couple quick questions, are these PRJ wires 10.4mm?(ZZ Performance) because it doesnt specify in there description. and what is the diffrence between 103 and 104 spark plugs. what does that number mean?
 
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