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**HELP** 04 GTP SC shifts but wont drive

wstefan20 said:
Personally, I pull the transmission, pressure wash with engine degreaser, drain fluids by dropping the pan, then take it over to a clean metal workbench with a drain pan and a parts washer, inspect and wash everything, replace bearings, rebuild clutch packs, inspect valve body, re-assembly while rebuilding with transmission lube and fluid where needed, load up the torque converter, install everything in the vehicle, fill half the fluids, start the car, then dump the remaining fluid in like a mad man, test drive and top off. Job well done! lol Takes me maybe 5 minutes to tear the transmission down after the channel plat is removed. Everything else is pretty much free once you free the bands.
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I feel like I should call you a cheaper with all that nice stuff at your disposal. I had an engine stand with 4 wheels and a fixture bracket for the trans that I made to do them. If you can't rotate the trans in the right directions.. you really want the correct tools for the job (which I didn't have).

I like to call 4t60/5's a floppy mess that you'd never think would work, right up until the 4th support is in. Keeping in mind these are the only transmissions I have rebuilt, but it amazes me how loose/floppy it is in there until that point.
 


BillBoost37 said:
I feel like I should call you a cheaper with all that nice stuff at your disposal. I had an engine stand with 4 wheels and a fixture bracket for the trans that I made to do them. If you can't rotate the trans in the right directions.. you really want the correct tools for the job (which I didn't have).

I like to call 4t60/5's a floppy mess that you'd never think would work, right up until the 4th support is in. Keeping in mind these are the only transmissions I have rebuilt, but it amazes me how loose/floppy it is in there until that point.
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lol Very true! I hadn't thought about fabricating a bracket for the engine stand! That might be cool to have. My first rebuild I was like "did I miss some bolts or something??" cause I was so terrified by how loose it was. Definitely one of those jobs you hold your breath on the first time. Unfortunately, I checked the valve body for things binding, but not for excessive clearance, so I'm going to have to do that this summer. I think as many rebuilds as I've been doing lately, I might buckle down and get the valve body "air checker" by sonnax which pressurizes the valve body passages so you can see the leak rate or if they're binding.
 
So fellas, it is the moment of truth for my first time... I found those 2 front subframe bults. A bracket was hiding them with 3, I think, 13mm nuts. (Pics Below)... I removed the AC lines without a mess. Don't want to ruin our lovely environment. Also cut the whole ABS out.

I'm guessing to keep those 2 bolts on from the Tranny bracket right? (Pic) Should I lift the whole engine/Tranny out the top?




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So one thing is that you only have the engine supported on one point of one side of the engine. If you don't have a lift on that when you drop the subframe, it'll twist and likely just break something and come down on you and cause more issues. You need to hook the engine hoist up to both the front and rear loops to correctly support the engine. Those transmission bolts on the bracket don't have to come out, in fact, the whole engine will try to tip if you do so watch your hands! Not sure why you disconnected the strut knuckles that was more work that you needed. If you were using the method to drop the subframe, the struts actually keep the cradle and engine and everything from dropping directly on the ground, but since you've disconnected them, you don't want to do this method. You'll want to hope the junkyard cuts the exhaust pretty close to the rear manifold or you'll have to deal with that. Probably easiest method from here is to either remove them as one unit, or to remove just the engine, then the transmission. If you already have the torque converter bolts out and all the bellhousing bolts and brace from the engine to transmission out, leave the bolts on the transmission to the driver's side mount on unless you want the transmission to fall out the bottom on you, then pull the engine and stuff out of the way, set aside, then do the same with the transmission. Make sure you disconnect those transmission lines or cut them at some point. It's not like a recommend re-using the connectors anyhow though. Let us know if you have any other issues!
 
Yeah, while downpipe is gone. Only rear manifold is there but I'm going to reconfigure the chains from front to back diagonally like you said so the engine wont tilt etc. I'll let you guys know. I might go engine first and than Tranny. Thanks

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showtastiik said:
Yeah, while downpipe is gone. Only rear manifold is there but I'm going to reconfigure the chains from front to back diagonally like you said so the engine wont tilt etc. I'll let you guys know. I might go engine first and than Tranny. Thanks

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Crud! Forgot to mention if you remove them separately, use a seatbelt to "tie" the nose of the transmission behind the differential to the subframe since the only thing holding it in at this point is the transmission mount which NEEDS to still be connected. Otherwise, it potentially could bend and fall nose down and rip the transmission mount apart and fall on your foot. It hasn't fallen through like that for me ever, but hey, it's better safe than sorry. I would be less careful if all you needed was the engine, but since you're after the transmission, definitely don't skip this "just in case".
 


Just make sure you leave enough room for the accumulator cover by the diff. Don't want to try to rotate and have it hit the stand.
 
Ok..editing isn't working so well for me.

Since you have a hoist right there.. just hook up to the engine hooks and undo the engine mount nuts and trans mount nuts.. that's 4 15mm's and you should be able to lift and wiggle. Put it on ground then unbolt engine from trans and wiggle trans off engine. Poof..there's your comp g trans that you can't really use.

WSTE: Comment in last post was for you.. so are these


 
Now I have to correctly and carefully take my Tranny out and put this one in.... Sheesh... Took me 2 days to cheat and snip this one out haha

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showtastiik said:
So I open it up and this is what I see
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I've seen a lot of messed up transmissions, but this is new! Was the bottom of the pan damaged??? Are there any fragments or does it appear to be a clean break? Your clutches are probably still roasted, but the good news is that it probably had nothing to do with you changing the axle and not filling. With this loose, the fluid will just dump back into the pan and not lubricate hardly anything inside. Trans is probably rebuildable unless you find metal fragments. That's a strange one...lol
 
Oh, and if you are planning to use that aluminum oil pan and yours doesn't come with it stock, the least you'll have to do is us a different engine mount and oil pickup tube, worst, you'll have to modify the engine mount by cutting out part of the bracket unless you have the aluminum subframe. 04 is a very strange year about this. I've seen both the steel and aluminum pans so it's a toss up. Plus there's a different gasket/where you use the rtv than the steel one.
 
Yeah, this is the tranny I picked up from the Yard. Had these metal pieces in it..... You think the internal might be messed up?

It seem like whoever drilled a hole in the pan to drain fluid, they also drilled right on up to hit this piece.

What's the name of this piece? Accumulator?

I'm about to pop open my original Tranny pan now to see what's the verdict.
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showtastiik said:
Yeah, this is the tranny I picked up from the Yard. Had these metal pieces in it..... You think the internal might be messed up?

It seem like whoever drilled a hole in the pan to drain fluid, they also drilled right on up to hit this piece.

What's the name of this piece? Accumulator?

I'm about to pop open my original Tranny pan now to see what's the verdict.
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Oh ok! I thought this was the one in your car! Lol

I'd bet there's a hole in the trans pan right under here where they drill to release fluid. This is the 1-2 accumulator. If the damage is just the drill, you can swap your old one in no problem.

I'd look into doing a shift kit while you're there and I'm a fan of sonnax lube tube retainer while the pan's off.

If it isn't damage by the drill, I wouldn't touch this transmission unless you're doing a rebuild.

Also, just checking, this isn't the comp-g one we told you wouldn't work is it?
 


Ohhhh they drilled the pan to drain it. That piece is the same as your trans...so you can swap that piece. Yet you still need to address the channel plate/valve body/wiring harness.

Good job getting it out. Do you still have all your fingers and toes?

On the aluminum oil pan. Different mount that should be on the pan, different pickup tube as mentioned and you are all set with the engine sealant that GM uses.
 
Solid!! Sad to say, the oil pan was for a buddy and now looking at mine, I should've kept it for myself. Mine is steel as well. What the deal with the aluminum though? I'll have to go back and get me one now. Must be a faster way to get that pan off along with bracket than my method haha....

But here's pics of my tranny pan. Fills gritty by touch.
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I also see now that my car has been sitting, it's been leaking tran fluid from where I installed the axle

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