**HELP** 04 GTP SC shifts but wont drive

[showtastiik]

So I snagged the 3 button center console so I can plug it in my car to see how many possible miles has been ran on the engine/tranny.. 160K was on it. I was wishing for a lower lucky number like low 100K at least.

So the only thing that makes the 4T65E--> HD is the Differential and the Passenger Axle to go with it, that's it? If so, I can snag the CompG's Differential at the yard because I found out that car only been driven 112K or is it even worth the time to do that?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[BillBoost37]

The HD trans differences are gear ratio behind the side cover (drivers side), the output shaft length (~1/4" difference), the diff and the diff cover. I've used non HD output shafts with good success. Why grab the diff, is yours shot? I thought you fried the trans, likely clutches.

 

[wstefan20]

I am not sure about the dic, I was under the impression it kept the miles from the original car it was installed in but maybe that's only the 5 button display? Idk. Someone will chime in.

As far as the comp-g, I was disappointed to find there was nothing special about the internals at all (at least visually) it looked identical to the base except it had a different valve body for tap shift and the hd differential. The actual gearing of the differential is the same as the hd, basically the compg is a gt transmission with a different valve body and hd differential so it's 3.29. There's nothing magical or different about the differential, the gear change is due to the sprockets.

 

[BillBoost37]

I reread what he wrote a couple times and I think he means, the wrecked car is at 112K so he was thinking about it.

Also a different channel plate.

 

[showtastiik]

Billboost read it right. I just know this is what my car is exactly doing Quick drive on a bad 4t65e-HD - YouTube

Just figured I'll try to take parts with less mileage as I can and use them together.. Just me over thinking things is all.

Right now I'm about to drop my pan and drain all the tranny fluid out just to get a better look and head to the JYard in a hour to get started on that Tranny removal

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[wstefan20]

I reread what he wrote a couple times and I think he means, the wrecked car is at 112K so he was thinking about it.

Also a different channel plate.

lol thanks billboost! I was wondering what the dic had to do with it! lol and yup. Unless you want to reprogram your computer and install the steering wheel, shifter, and work out the wiring, that comp-g won't work. Technically you could swap the valve body and channel plate, but by the time you're that far in the transmission, you might as well do a complete rebuild, plus I wouldn't touch the valve body from the one you have now without a thorough cleaning and repair. Better option is find another transmission.

 

[wstefan20]

Billboost read it right. I just know this is what my car is exactly doing Quick drive on a bad 4t65e-HD - YouTube

Just figured I'll try to take parts with less mileage as I can and use them together.. Just me over thinking things is all.

Right now I'm about to drop my pan and drain all the tranny fluid out just to get a better look and head to the JYard in a hour to get started on that Tranny removal

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yup! Good luck! I bet you find all sorts of fun in that pan... lol (pictures!!!) I wouldn't go swapping major parts of transmissions like that unless you are doing a complete rebuild (which by the time you swap the valve body and channel plate you're well over half way there anyhow).

Good luck!

 

[BillBoost37]

You feel that's halfway to a rebuild? I've pulled a lot of VB/Channel plates to fix 4th gear hubs and it's quick and easy after the first. Pulling the rest of the stuff apart, replacing seals on the 1st/3rd and 2nd drums was a bit unnerving hoping you got it right w/o being able to see much at all. Then tightening up the clutch packs takes time, now test to make sure things are working. Reassembly and getting the whole sloppy mess back in properly is even more fun. IDK.. I think if he goes in just to channel/valve body he shouldn't swap in his.. but then he can't use the comp g stuff either. Maybe he can sell the comp g parts to TEP or so to get some cash off a VB/Channel plate job.

 

[wstefan20]

You feel that's halfway to a rebuild? I've pulled a lot of VB/Channel plates to fix 4th gear hubs and it's quick and easy after the first. Pulling the rest of the stuff apart, replacing seals on the 1st/3rd and 2nd drums was a bit unnerving hoping you got it right w/o being able to see much at all. Then tightening up the clutch packs takes time, now test to make sure things are working. Reassembly and getting the whole sloppy mess back in properly is even more fun. IDK.. I think if he goes in just to channel/valve body he shouldn't swap in his.. but then he can't use the comp g stuff either. Maybe he can sell the comp g parts to TEP or so to get some cash off a VB/Channel plate job.

Lol I should specify. I've never ever been a fan of trying to rebuild or replace transmission parts in the vehicle. It's like doing open heart surgery in a dirty garage or just opening up the oil pan to swap bearings hoping it'll fix the problem. Yeah, it might, but for how long?

That being said, I know desperate times call for desperate measures so I get it.

Personally, I pull the transmission, pressure wash with engine degreaser, drain fluids by dropping the pan, then take it over to a clean metal workbench with a drain pan and a parts washer, inspect and wash everything, replace bearings, rebuild clutch packs, inspect valve body, re-assembly while rebuilding with transmission lube and fluid where needed, load up the torque converter, install everything in the vehicle, fill half the fluids, start the car, then dump the remaining fluid in like a mad man, test drive and top off. Job well done! lol Takes me maybe 5 minutes to tear the transmission down after the channel plat is removed. Everything else is pretty much free once you free the bands.

Heads up on the valve body, I've been sitting on a comp-g valve body, harness, and channel plate off a low mileage transmission and none of my local shops want to buy it for more than $20. Don't bank on making anything on it.

 

[showtastiik]

Well fellas. After a fool day of trying to unbolt this Tranny and running errands. Still not done.... Removed the GenV Blower, cut all belts, wires and hoses and whatever that was in the way. I even removed the rear engine subframe bolts. I have 2 seat belts and a huge thick steel bar to hold the engine up....

The only thing I missed was that racket pension 11mm bolt and the 2 top tranny mount bolts below the ABS Module..

Also I couldn't find out where and how to drop the engine subframe from the front. I removed 1 nut from each side and it seemed like I'll have to lift the engine and push it back and over what is keeping the subframe from dropping..

Almost there.. Have to figure that stuff out and go back tomorrow and finish up

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[showtastiik]

Also the car is sitting up about 3ft in the air. So if I'm visualizing this right, I should be home free tomorrow?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[showtastiik]

Another thing... I'm not sure what to do with the AC Pump or whatever it is. I pulled the lines from the Tran and Radiator and I was about to unbolt it but like green stuff started hissing out... Did that to my car and now the AC not cold anymore..

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Scottydoggs]

why would you undo the ac lines? just unbolt the compressor from the engine and rest it on the sub frame.

your system will need a recharge now.

and the 4 bolts are all that holds the frame up. you'll need to support the engine from up top. if the yard your at has a hoist for you to use you might just want to pull the engine and tranny out the top. then separate the tranny from it.

 

[showtastiik]

Didn't know what I was doing when I first put my oversized radiator in..... Might be tough out the top but I'm going to try. Its punches in in the front from a wreck.. I'll rather have it up in the air taking stuff off to drop it where I want it anyways. Doing this by myself for the first time. Dont need a bad back haha.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[showtastiik]

I should captured a pic of trying to release the front part of the subframe of a 05 GTP SC. Even If I come out the top I still want to figure out where the world are those other 2 bolts to release the frame ha

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Scottydoggs]

two in the back, two in the front, if this is a 07 irrc the lower bumper bracket or something covers then two front bolts up, so you cant see then clearly.

out the tops is do able. you'll have to take the master cylinder off and the down pipe off the rear exhaust manifold. unplug the knock sensors and what ever else you come across.

 

[Scottydoggs]

this is how i got mine done. engine hoist holding the engine up then pulled the sub frame then pulled the tranny out with a jack and square of ply wood.

if you dont have a hoist to use you can use a 4x4 across the rad support to wiper cowl, bolt a chain over the 4x4 to the engine and that will hold it all up while you take the sub frame off and the drop the tranny out. this way you dont need to unhook a thing from your engine.

oh, trans fluid will come out when you pull the trans dip stick, so have a pan under it to catch that mess.

 

[showtastiik]

Ooh okay. So you just let the engine hang, release the tranny and once you were ready, you rolled the Tranny under and up in place?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Scottydoggs]

yup, just hang it in place, dont un hook a thing from the engine.

you pull the tranny out the d/s. you can leave the struts in place. undo the engine and tranny mount bolts, pop the ball joints and tie rod ends, and un clip the p/s lines and dont forget the rack shaft bolt, then drop the frame a bit and pry the shaft off. then drop the frame.

How to pull an engine: BillBoost Style bills how to a standard read. if you have the pb fix add on for chrome the pics work.

 

[BillBoost37]

Oh boy...

Couple things I would suggest:
-Bolt one or two of the knuckle bolts back up to the struts. Undo everything else (subframe bolts 4 of them in total) before you touch those struts.
-Don't worry about the 11mm screw in the steering shaft, the shaft will pull out easily because it's only semi held by a super small allen screw which won't stop it from pulling off.
-Unbolt the 3-4 nuts/bolts holding the ac to it's bracket and it's free to hang or as a last resort cut the line with gloves on so you don't get the PAG oil on you. Also don't breath in the freon if the condensor didn't get killed in the crash, it's bad for you and the environment.
-Unbolt or cut the power steering lines
- Sounds like you cut the electrical and heater/radiator hoses so you are good there
- Follow the subframe in your first picture. See how on the right hand side it goes up by the radiator. The two front subframe bolts are right next to the sides of the radiator if you look straight up. Now this is there you want to be careful because you are kinda under it and it's approx 800lbs of crap that's going to want to fall. If they have cranes, use one. Otherwise remember how you put those strut bolts back in.... they are going to hold it up for you a little. undo the three nuts on each strut and the last one on each side should let the whole mess fall the 2 or so feet. Then undo the bolts holding stuff together and try to lift up on trans/engine to get them to release.

Be careful and don't get squished or hurt.. it's really easy