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Need some serious help before i damage my car.



i did mention the fact they exist..... my cars got a drilled t stat, no need to bleed it really. when i did straight coolant came out asap.
 
That is a lot, make sure to keep an eye on the overflow so you don't get more air back into the system, but it should come out. You will have to keep an eye on that overflow bottle for a few days depending on your drive.

Scotty you and I grew up during the same time, back in the early 80's my summers were either spent out with my Dad while he worked on aircraft or at the library with my Mom since that was where she worked. I used to know the Dewey Decimal system like the back of my hand. I wish schools these days had Vocational schools, I grew up in a town of about 40K and our school had Marine repair where I learned to TIG, Metal shop, Auto mechanics, Drafting (boy I am glad I didn't waste my time with that, although I started designing with Acad 12 lol), we had Electronics (worst electronics teacher EVER, very funny stories about him, like the time he connected a lamp cord to a Sparkomatic 6 band EQ then proceeded to plug it into the wall. I went to the principle over that one). We also had Autobody and FFA stuff there were a lot of things to learn about that were practical. Now those programs it seems are gone. But I digress.

Sorry to take over your thread Shawn but it sounds like your getting close. If you really want to learn what is going on with these cars your going to want to get a device to see live data like we mentioned previously, it will tell you more than you need to know but it's almost better than a box full of tools sometimes. Buy a set of tools at Harbor Freight, you don't need a super expensive tool set to get the job done in most cases. Look for their super coupons and 50% off sales.

Jeff
 


Shawn..

FWIW I think you'll have your car fixed up in less pages of thread than Jeff did. :th_biggrin2:

Luckily.. we freed up Jeff from fixing his car...and now he's super helpful. And if you ever have a vacuum line question, he's your guy.
 
my hs had a metal shop. like they did cast work, welding, you name it. we had mechanical drawing, that was a cool class, printing also, full blown wood shop, and a auto shop.

all that stuff is long gone.

we still have the tech schools you can go to if you want, its free too. and they cover it all, from plumbing class to electrical to auto and auto body, to hair and makeup for the girls, and any queers lol
 
I can see I will never live down having bought a car with an intermittent Ford check valve installed where a standard T was supposed to be :th_shakinghead1:. Well at least we don't have a bunch of guys that couldn't troubleshoot their way out of a paper bag mucking it up in this thread.

Jeff
 
It's memorable... what can I say. We all have to be known for something and there's tons of "gems" that I did or had occur while working on cars. Like the time I killed my perfectly good motor during a cam swap with it sitting on an engine stand.
 


BillBoost37 said:
I would recommend getting a cheap bluetooth adapter and the torque application. This will allow you to see what actual temperature is running.

Low speed fans should be programmed to come on around 216F and the high speed fans should be ~228F. Yes these cars are programmed to run a tad warm, however that temp on the gauge is typically much lower than you mention. Since gauges can be reporting incorrectly, I suggest the live scanning.

Also I would suggest looking at the coolant elbows, water pump and radiator for any obvious leaks. Ensure the system is full when cold.
Click to expand...

Do you know which fuse number is for high and which for low?
 
They just say fan.. is it a fuse for each one? or does one fuse control high and one control low?
Sorry for thread jacking.. but i'm in a similar issue and I have recently flush / filled and replaced a t-stat.
 


Then follow along with how to bleed the system and such and look at the thread mentioned on how the cooling system should work. What year is your car, we are talking about an 05 here and I am not familar with the previous years as much. The 04+ has the listing of all the fuses and relays, with a description of each and a number to where they are.

As far as fusing I am thinking they are going to be the larger fuses near the top and not the mini fuses.


I still haven't been able to see a schematic as to why there are 3 relays for 2 fans. My thought has been 1 relay for low, through a resistor and one each for full battery voltage but have yet to confirm.

Jeff
 
Let the car run for 30 minuites, didn't go over half-way mark. No need for a video.
Crossing my fingers that it is fixed.

Also what do you mean watch the overflow bottle? what should i be looking for?
 
Is there any other way you can tell if the head gasket is leaking? would there be a loss of power?
I remember one weekend (2 hour highway drive) when i was accelerating after having cruise at 70mph the car would stutter its way up, little jolts like if you were tapping the paddle fast (i wasn't) just held it down and it did that. What does that mean? I thought nothing of it at the time.
 
fill it 3/4 the way up. then watch its level. hot and cold. it should rise and fall if your cap is working right.

as coolant gets hot it expands and it needs to go some where, so it goes to the "over flow tank" convenient name right?

when the engine cools off, it sucks the coolant back in from the over flow tank.
 
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