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My car eats transmissions!!!

brokeazfunk

brokeazfunk

New member
I got my car used a couple years ago for $500 and it already had a trans issue (thats why it was so cheep). So I changed it for a reman and everything was good for about a half a year. Then I started to mod...

Quick list of mods, SD headers and down pipe with U bend delete and 3" to duel 2.5's. ZZP pcm, 3.4" pully, cooler plugs, 1.9 ratio RR's, CAI, full suspention replacement, trans mount spacers and solid upper torque mounts.

Sinse then ive gone through 3 other transmissions! Always the same symptoms... Runs great and then out of nowhere, it gets slugish to go, like you have to rev a little to get it moving. in the course of a few miles from the time that starts, it gets worse until there is no forward at all.

Reverse still works but no forward gears. This was the case with the trans that came in the car that I had to swap out to start with.

Am I really this unlucky? I cant imagine that the few mods ive done has caused more HP and torque then a stock HD trans can handle.

Any thoughts or advise?
 


You keep putting in used transmissions? Even a reman I wouldn't trust you need one rebuilt from a decent shop or by now the time and money you've spent a Trans from TripleEdgePerformance would have save you a bunch im willing to bet.

Factory rebuilds suck there is a lot that can be improved over a stock rebuild.

Edit as for the reverse works but no forward gears sounds like you broke a band. You can pull the trans pan and filter and check to see if the lugs broke off the apply band.
 
Sounds like you are snapping bands and the transmissions you are getting are crap. Go with a TEP rebuild and be done.
 
I only paid for the first trans, all the rest have been replaced under warranty.

I am currently saving up to pay for a good rebuild but I dont know how I should go about it. Buy a TEP rebuild kit and have someone local do the work, pay for a TEP/ZZP/WBS rebuilt trans... Not sure how far I would need to go to be sure that I wont be eating another trans.

The only other mods I plan on doing is port and pollish the S/C outlet and uper intake and then adding an intercooler kit.

How built will the trans need to be at that point?
 
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98GrandPrickVet said:
You keep putting in used transmissions? Even a reman I wouldn't trust you need one rebuilt from a decent shop or by now the time and money you've spent a Trans from TripleEdgePerformance would have save you a bunch im willing to bet.

Factory rebuilds suck there is a lot that can be improved over a stock rebuild.

Edit as for the reverse works but no forward gears sounds like you broke a band. You can pull the trans pan and filter and check to see if the lugs broke off the apply band.
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I didnt realize you could get to any bands that way. Im not a transmission guy by any stretch. Can you only view the band or can you also replace it from that vantage point?
 


Quote right from TEP's website.....LOL

-Used transmissions are the cheapest "initial" cost option without question. However, almost every used transmission is unfortunately a gamble- you have no idea of the vehicles' history that it came from or if it has ever been maintained properly or abused. You may get a great deal on one, install it, and find out that it slips during shifts, sets trouble codes, or worse yet does not even work at all. If you install it yourself then it is not a huge heartbreaker and you take/send it back and get a replacement and hope round 2 goes better. If you paid a shop to install your used transmission then guess what- you are likely paying for installation a second time for a second transmission, so that $500 labor cost is now $1000 and not looking soo cheap anymore.

-A rebuilt transmission is the more logical choice if you can afford it. You get a better warranty, new parts, and often times improvements. Every shop does something different during a rebuild so is near impossible to speak on behalf of anyone elses work or quality so it is best to do your own research and plan accordingly. Depending on area, rebuilds can easily exceed $2,000 and you may not be getting what you think you paid for.

-Our Standard and High Performance line of transmissions have long had a great reputation for quality and durability and always feature top quality parts and upgrades as a starting point, but adding the transmission core fee and two-way freight shipping charges for customers that we ship to can quickly increase the initial cost which is not always something that works for everyones budget.
 


8-10 FULLY BUILT!!! I am totally screwed then! I might as well go to a transmission tech school so I can at least save money on labor costs going forward! lol
 
BillBoost37 said:
FWIW.. your issue might be your right foot.
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A prime example of the need for the "LIKE" button, but in its absence I have to reply to display or signify my agreement with your post, as it would've been my same response, but you beat me to it, thereby requiring my post to agree, instead of just clicking a simple little button to "LIKE" it.

: )
 
Really if the trans was built well enough, and your tune supported the mods to keep the clutches/bands happy, it should last(unless you're really heavily modded, then you've passed the potential of the 4t65e). But if bill can break 8-10 what I said is obviously not true lol
Edit: but I think bill kept breaking the strangest things. The input reluctor wheel or something lol.
 
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I smoked some clutches (likely a seal was nicked)
I stretched 7/8" chains way too fast (say like 500-5000 miles)
I mastered ripping input shaft recluctors off the drive gear.

Some differences that helped me do it which might keep some of you from not doing it.
I had a Bonneville with no engine mount movement. The GP with it's upper mount setup still allows a ton of movement vs what I had. Also I had drag bags in the rear to keep it from squatting. This kept the weight transfer from happening, which kept a lot more weight on the tires, in turn.. this gives you a lot more traction and overall less give. I did beat it, it was too much fun. Had plenty of power to enjoy and it beat many more cars than it should have in comparison.

One track pass where I wasted the slicks up in smoke 2.+ 60' time was 13.81 seconds. 3.29's in the trans, headers, S1X, Gen V 3.4 and N*. No real tune to speak of. After that.. I did all sorts of evil crap to it.
 
Damn dude! Lol. Well i have pretty solid uper mounts. Not much movement there. Any advise on how to instruct the trany build so i can get on it if i feel like and not have to worry all the time?
 
brokeazfunk said:
Damn dude! Lol. Well i have pretty solid uper mounts. Not much movement there. Any advise on how to instruct the trany build so i can get on it if i feel like and not have to worry all the time?
Click to expand...

Your uppers are floppy marshmallows, just because you have so many bolts and possible points of movement. It's a good thing actually, you'll break flex plates more....but it's overall less abuse on the trans.

This is with the solid lower mounts and solid torque axis mount. It's pulling the ebrake'd rear tires, overcoming the brakes (the squeal), literally the subframe is flexing and it's pretty much at the converter stall speed.


Probably about 1,000 miles on this 7/8"


My signature move


 
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