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The Parts Have Arrived



I wouldn't they are so cheap best to replace them when the bushings go bad. I'm gonna scrap them for whatever few bucks they are worth. Give me a chance to see what GP parts the local picknpull has.

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Russosaur said:
I wouldn't they are so cheap best to replace them when the bushings go bad. I'm gonna scrap them for whatever few bucks they are worth. Give me a chance to see what GP parts the local picknpull has.

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Those plus some other parts are scrap yard bound.
 
Ive used A1 cardone from oreillys twice no issues with either, pain in the ass to put in but at least they are cheap after core charge.
 


Well he said no issues with either, so he wouldn't need to replace the first new one. I'm sure he bought 2, for 2 different cars and had no issues with either.
 
Umm for math purposes ive owned 8 W bodies since I was in high school. I can assure you a rack is not a job id do twice on the same one. If I had a rack crap out twice on the same car I think it would meet a bottle of gas and a match!!!
 
98GrandPrixIraqVet said:
Umm for math purposes ive owned 8 W bodies since I was in high school. I can assure you a rack is not a job id do twice on the same one. If I had a rack crap out twice on the same car I think it would meet a bottle of gas and a match!!!
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Lol

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Edit break down if your wondering

96 green GP
95 Red GTP
02 Red GP
98 Regal GS put a rack in after winter meeting with a minivan! tits behind the wheel of the minivan..........
98 Black 4 door put a rack in while replacing an engine because it needed inner tierods, with engine out might as well do whole rack they are almost as cheap as buying 2 inner tierods!
97 Black GTP gutted and T boned
99 GTP S1X cam E85
*Caged 2600# ish race car pending pickup* (Zach's old roller) Once picked up this will be # 8
 


Ok kool, thx for the info. Dropping the cradle is the only thing I wish I didn't have to do, I've read it makes the job easier.

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I would consider replacing the sub frame bushings, if you do end up dropping it. They have been dealing with all the same circumstances that the other bushings went through.
 
Scottydoggs said:
that pretty damn shot. you use a pickle fork to remove? it or was the boot torn off on its own?
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The passengers side came right out when I I took the nut off, I had to use a socket and a wrench. The shaft of the tie rod kept turning while trying to take the nut off. The driver's side needed a pickle fork to remove. None of the boots were torn, I cut them off to inspect the tie rod.

ebk231 said:
I would consider replacing the sub frame bushings, if you do end up dropping it. They have been dealing with all the same circumstances that the other bushings went through.
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Will put them on my to do list, thanks
 
i always leave the lock nut on the inner tie rod, crack it free, put it back to the tie rod and then take the tie rod end off.

if the inner spins on you theres a square part on the shaft you put a adjustable wrench on it to hold it still, then take the nut or tie rod off.

leaving the old lock nut on saves your alignment a bit. at least it will be close till you get to a shop.

and the inner is supposed to spin. the alignment shop will break the lock nut free and turn the inner tie rod to adjust your front end.
 
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