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The Parts Have Arrived

kissmyss

kissmyss

New member
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Lower control arms
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Steering rack bushings
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Sway bar bushings
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End links
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Poly square upper front engine mounts
All parts are Moog, except the poly square are from Intense.
 


The front bushings on both lower control arms are shot, so I decided to replace the whole arm instead of just doing the bushings. Since I have to remove the links, l decided to replace those as well. The end links and sway bar bushings are inexpensive. rack bushings are also shot. I have a another post showing the poly squares and the condition. One was decent, the other was damaged.

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Sway end links will probably break into lots of peices, I need sway bushings should have did it when I did LCAs and tie rods and sway ends. Good luck replacing stuff. My moogs looked different odd.

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I put the poly squares in already, see Dog Bone Bushings post. The rest will be installed tomorrow, weather permitting.

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Russosaur said:
Sway end links will probably break into lots of peices, I need sway bushings should have did it when I did LCAs and tie rods and sway ends. Good luck replacing stuff. My moogs looked different odd.

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Moog has two types, the "R" (RK) series and the "C" (CK) series.
From Moog website;http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/suspension/control-arms#.U0-usFcvBXZ
R-SERIES CONTROL ARMS
The MOOG® R-Series™ (RK) line of control arms is the right choice for the value-driven repair. These control arms feature MOOG engineering-validated construction and design, OE fit and form, and pre-installed OE style bushings and ball joints where applicable. Looking at the pictures, these are riveted and appears to be non-greasable.

PREMIUM CONTROL ARMS
MOOG® Problem Solver® premium (CK) control arms include problem-solving design features, such as serviceable powdered-metal MOOG gusher bearing ball joints for long life, Problem Solver bushings for superior performance, and precise geometry for ease of installation.

Go here to Moog website for pictures; http://www.fme-cat.com/Application...., Misc.&brand=MOOG Steering & Suspension&ga=Y

Maybe that's why yours look different. I went with the CK series, Rockauto prices RK $61.89 CK $105.79. I paid $100 ea. plus an additional 5% off using the discount code.
 


Installed all of the parts except the rack bushings, may need to replace the rack. I found other things that need replacing, just have to order the parts. Here's some pictures of the completed work;
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20140417_150211.jpg
 
LCAs are easy, 4 bolts and its off. I did both sides of mine including sway bar end link and tie rod ends in 1 and half hours per side. Most of thd time was hunting for tools. Iv heard you don't need an alignment after LCAs but I would do it as insurance.

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Speedy1973 said:
Why you replacing it all? or is the old stuff just worn right out
Click to expand...

The parts are original and nine years old. Here are some reasons;
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The end links weren't that bad, the front bushing on the control arms were separating from the metal sleeve and had cracks in the rubber.
I also found this;
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See the rubber has cracks in it, no grease around it. I hope that means there's grease on the inside. I'll be ordering the tie rod ends tomorrow.
 


SomeDudeAtHome said:
How difficult were the control arms to install? And do you have to get an alignment after doing them?
Click to expand...

Russosaur said:
LCAs are easy, 4 bolts and its off. I did both sides of mine including sway bar end link and tie rod ends in 1 and half hours per side. Most of thd time was hunting for tools. Iv heard you don't need an alignment after LCAs but I would do it as insurance.

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Click to expand...
They were easy, I'll get an alignment after all the work is done.
 
The only issue is you have to remove the cv axle to torque the lower ball joint nut. I didn't do it, I just tightened as much as I could with the wrench. Maybe I'll remove the axle and do it when I replace the tie rod end.
 
kissmyss said:
The only issue is you have to remove the cv axle to torque the lower ball joint nut. I didn't do it, I just tightened as much as I could with the wrench. Maybe I'll remove the axle and do it when I replace the tie rod end.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't worry, that's what I did. If you remove the Axle remember to re torque the Axle nut back to 118ft/lbs I believe it is.
 
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