• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Clunk...Clunk...Is driving me nuts!!!



Yes each one goes a certain way, the flat side goes up against the washer and the pointed side goes into the sway bar and LCA.
 
Thanks. I know each fits into slot and the repair manual did not specify a particular placement. All I know is that the protrusion on the rubber mount sits in an oblong groove and then clamped into place

02NavyBlue said:
Oh that's my fault, I need sleep lol. I don't think you can put them in wrong, either way is fine.
Click to expand...
 


How tight does the castle nut on ball joint needs to be? Can't fit a torque wrench on it. It requires 40 foot lbs. do you just snug the nut hand tight?
 
Yeah I could only get so much torque on a 8 inch wrench, just pulled one off and re-installed on a regal gs yesterday. Tightened it until I couldn't go any more with one hand and put the pin in.
 
Sounds like a plan. Thanks. Everything went back together well. Getting the front bushing on the lower control arm to line up was a pita...

02NavyBlue said:
Yeah I could only get so much torque on a 8 inch wrench, just pulled one off and re-installed on a regal gs yesterday. Tightened it until I couldn't go any more with one hand and put the pin in.
Click to expand...
 


Good to hear, I'll be going through the same thing and more soon on mine. I did upper control arms on a charger recently and getting the bolt to go through the bushing and the frame was a pain too.
 
I found using the flat tip on a pry bar works well if you push on the metal sleeve. Line up bottom and push top in. Have someone tap bolt through as you push to align bushing. This is needed for the bushing closest to the radiator. The bushing to the rear is simple enough.

02NavyBlue said:
Good to hear, I'll be going through the same thing and more soon on mine. I did upper control arms on a charger recently and getting the bolt to go through the bushing and the frame was a pain too.
Click to expand...
 
I just don't get it. After all that time, cost and effort spent repairing the front end, I am still hearing this clunk on the RHS. It seems to do it on hard stops but not as much when breaking slowly. It seems that this problem began after my struts were replaced. The sway bar is in perfect condition. There is no visible cracks or sign of wear.
 


How's your alignment? Also double check that both o your strut mounts are tightened the same amount. Its also plausible that they didn't get put together properly.

After a week or so go back an make sure all your bolts are tourqed on the control arms etc...
 
Alignment is good. I have not checked strut but it seems that I will have to look at it in more depth. I torqued the control arms and sub frame bolts at 85 foot pounds. They are tight

91parkave said:
How's your alignment? Also double check that both o your strut mounts are tightened the same amount. Its also plausible that they didn't get put together properly.

After a week or so go back an make sure all your bolts are tourqed on the control arms etc...
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top