Bronco Boy
Donating Users
Post #119 is what I got from TRS.
How to- Retrofit Projectors 97-03 GP
- Thread starter LS1GTP
- Start date
OZZY1123
New member
Ok so I bought sp***r headlights before even joining the forum, and now after doing some reading would like to retrofit my OEM housings. I would still like to use halos though and can get them with the kit you guys say to use for retrofit. How do the halos mount and what size do I need? Also, will the HID bulb in the spyders be the correct bulb for the retrofit, in turn saving me some money? How can I tell what the bulb is?
Fixedwing1
New member
Ozzy, Idk what you mean by the corner thing, but as far as Halos, the size will depend on the Projector and shroud you choose. TRS will advise and know which size to get you when you order your retrofit, if you are going through TRS. The TRS Halos mount on the front of the shrouds via either gluing in place with an epoxy, or you an drill very small holes and use a fine wire to "tie" them on. If you go to TRS website and look in their "How To" videos they have a video for the "tying" method. This is their preferred recommended way. However if you choose to glue in place use an epoxy based type "glue" to adhere in place. Do not use silicone or anything like that because with heat build up and such those type of glues if you will can yellow and also give off gases inside the housing and tiny your lens as well. My retro is actually scheduled to be here tonight via UPS. I did order the Halos and can let you know how it goes once I get them done. As far as bulb selections if you get a retro from TRS, bulbs will come with the projectors, you just need to specify which kelvin rating you want. I chose 5K. Also don't know how well your housings are, but as stated in earlier posts, it's recommended to get new housings. As I can now attest that while the new housings do come apart a lot easier, the channels in the housings seem to be a bigger pain to get "cleaned out". The older housings do come apart harder but the opposite seemed true to me, that the channels in the old housing were easier to clean out the sealant. I actually took apart old housings as a practice run so I would know what to expect while taking apart the newer ones so I wouldn't screw them up. I did find that with the new housings when the sealant starts to cool its a bigger pain to clean the channels, so I just put them back in the oven for a few min and warmed up the glue again and seemed to be easier. Also if you have a "wire wheel" for your dremel, that will work awesome to do a final cleaning of your channels once you get all the sealant out. How all this helps. Good luck!
Fixedwing1
New member
OZZY later I will try and find link to that video, responding via my phone right now and can't do it.
Fixedwing1
New member
Tint, not Tiny your lenses.
Fixedwing1
New member
4thGEN , what did you mean by you used the metal thing that goes inside the hole? How did you use that? I'm noticing that if I was to trim a hair off of the projector base I can get the projector to seat in the hole, center the thread post and technically would think that the projector would be centered where need be, basically being in line where the bulb theoretically would be lined. Would that be correct ya think, of course in theory . And I also had a stupid question but I would have thought the shutter would have been on top, the markings on the projector that says top, would have the shutter on the bottom.
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
I haven't finished mine, but the projector needs to sit like this to be aligned.....
I don't believe that any trimming of the projector is required (from what I've read an seen).
Here is how the beam lines up with the stock bulb (almost on the money):
And here is my beam with the projector centered in the factory hole (to far to the right):
I don't believe that any trimming of the projector is required (from what I've read an seen).
Here is how the beam lines up with the stock bulb (almost on the money):
And here is my beam with the projector centered in the factory hole (to far to the right):
Fixedwing1
New member
OK, So i placed projector in housing and placed in bracket and put on car. Kinda answered my own question in reference to being aligned properly. So just like LS1 stated, will have to shave a lil to make it sit outwards. Question I had in respect to grinding on one corner of the projector bowl, is that when not ground, that corner seems to be resting on bottom of housing therefore making the shutter sit horizontally crooked in respect to reflector grid lines running horizontally across back of housing. So im trying to get the flat part of bowl on top and bottom to line up horizontally equal so that the shutter and projector would sit horizontally correct, or am I thinking to much, lol. Is it just the way you took your pics, but why does it seem your horizontal line on the wall is crooked in respect to the floor?
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
I haven't done my final fit, so I can't comment on the grinding part. I know mine is close, but I all the info I have accumulated says nothing about it. And I'm still unsure of how the alignment should be, so I will let others advise on that.
You like them lines? LOL
I have to work on these in my kitchen, and I don't have the time to do it all at once, so I made a cardboard jig for the counter and wall that I can remove. The headlight housing sits flat on the counter, and the felt pen line on the wall is the stock beam.
Go here for pics....
http://chrisb.users.superford.org/G...trofit/HID_Headlights_Projector_Retrofit.html
16MustangVet
New member
Damn that's a very nice link^^^^ Thanks !
Fivefingerdeathpunch
New member
Damn, he sure made them sit all angled like in the back of the headlight capsule. I just made mine sit flush with the back so the lock nut could go all the way down. Then just used the headlight backet itself as my adjust for getting the beams lined up. I need to make another set as this first set is kinda kiddy wampus now from being the first set.
Fixedwing1
New member
I do like your link Bronco. In your July 16th pics, you do comment about trimming the projector housing. What did you have to do to it?
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
Thanks. It'll be even better when I finish the project. LOL
This is kind of why I put the project on hold. I had to angle them to get the alignment in check, but I can't see where others had to do the same thing. I would have never thought you could get that much alignment out of the bracket without the housing looking all crooked.
Thanks. I just re-read that and am starting to remember it. LOL
I'll dig out this project when I get home and re-evaluate the trimming and let you guys know what I really did. :th_laugh-lol2:
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
Ok, the cut that I forgot I made was to the top left corner (looking from the front) of the projector. In the picture, looking at it from the rear, it is on the top right. Looks to be about 2mm, which gave me the clearance to clock the projector to get proper alignment.
Fixedwing1
New member
Ok, the cut that I forgot I made was to the top left corner (looking from the front) of the projector. In the picture, looking at it from the rear, it is on the top right. Looks to be about 2mm, which gave me the clearance to clock the projector to get proper alignment.
Yes sir, had to make the same shave. Hey I noticed those lights you have are the TYC brand. The brand I got was eagle eyes and I am noticing that the interiors are different from the drivers side and the passengers side. I looked at my factory ones and they are dang near identical. It must be the molds for eagle eyes because i got two pairs (for mistakes) and noticed both pair are the same way, not identical on the inside of housing from the driver side compared to the passenger side. My question to you Bronco, is the insides of that brand seem identical on the insides or are they different as well.
Fixedwing1
New member
Also Bronco the last pic on your link says vertical hotspot tuning, what is that? what does the circle represent in the pics? I assume the line is the cutoff from the shutter.