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bluetooth obd 2 adapter and torquepro ( obd 2 & car ) questions

so im guessing most ppl on a budget would recommend this over an aeroforce gauge? might have to get one before i do my pulley drop
 


frosty said:
Intake is preferably kept within 20* of ambient. trannie is 180 to 210
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Thanks. Since I have an open cone in the bay with basically zero shielding or protection, how do I get lower temps? It seems to me that a $300 k&n intake with a piece of plastic on the backside of the filter wouldn't do anything as far as keeping temps down, so either something like a wizaird or a fwi. Actually my intake temps were about 125. So 50+ degrees more than ambient. I know its not a big deal and I have basically zero big mods , but just would like to find a better setup
 
kurupt305 said:
so im guessing most ppl on a budget would recommend this over an aeroforce gauge? might have to get one before i do my pulley drop
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Not necessarily. Several members have this alot with the aeroforce. The aeroforce tends to stay as a standard gauge and only used for certain things and this is used on the fly for everything, plus it doubles as a code scanner which is a nice bonus. Unless you have deep pockets and just want a standard scan tool this is worth its weight in gold. I spend $17 on mine, took a risk on a cheap one from Ebay and it works fine for me (I always have the shops scanner as a backup) but most recommend a solid one from Amazon or the really nice $75 +/- kiwi one. Just up to you. Even with the kiwi its cheaper than most scanners due to all the info it gives, plus it has additional plugins on the market that make is so worth it.
Track recorder is my favorite.


comatoast said:
Thanks. Since I have an open cone in the bay with basically zero shielding or protection, how do I get lower temps? It seems to me that a $300 k&n intake with a piece of plastic on the backside of the filter wouldn't do anything as far as keeping temps down, so either something like a wizaird or a fwi. Actually my intake temps were about 125. So 50+ degrees more than ambient. I know its not a big deal and I have basically zero big mods , but just would like to find a better setup
Click to expand...

http://www.grandprixforums.net/dyno-science-cai-box-vs-open-cone-intake-33225.html

Why bother? Unless you have an intercooler the heat in the supercharger is going to offset anything you save on temps by building/buying a cold air intake. If it were me, I would worry more about getting more air into the motor than I would colder air, I know colder is denser but until you get to big power mods the smidgen of extra power made by colder air is negligible.
 
these pockets arent that deep lol probably will end up just getting the torque pro and blue tooth thanks tlsheff also yea the track setting seems to be nice too
 
I'm not seeing any option for the kr? I downloaded the addon and stuff but not giving me a option.. Is it maybe only for GTPs? Also does anyone have the oil temp that works? I want to go get my car weighed so I can have correct stats.. 30$ total definitely worth it! I actually found out I had a bad o2 sensor because I got this and my mechanic never saw it.. I was getting 13-14 tops mpg before now street I'm getting like 16.. Highway like 17.3 but I'm not on the highway for long and those who know NY know highway isn't always good lol

Sent from my LG-MS910 using Tapatalk 2
 


The KR only matters if you have a supercharger/turbo. NA shouldn't ever experience KR... ever.

Oil temp and Oil Pressure won't work unless you change out the switch, factory is just a default "dummy" switch that works in either you have pressure or you don't, if you don't you are about to know it anyways.

Standard weight is in the 3400-3500 neighborhood without anyone/thing in the car.
 
TLSheff said:
The KR only matters if you have a supercharger/turbo. NA shouldn't ever experience KR... ever.

Oil temp and Oil Pressure won't work unless you change out the switch, factory is just a default "dummy" switch that works in either you have pressure or you don't, if you don't you are about to know it anyways.

Standard weight is in the 3400-3500 neighborhood without anyone/thing in the car.
Click to expand...

Thanks and I have added stuff sub/amp, car seat, tools etc I'd be better off once I'm done modding it ie rims, exhaust getting it weighed just to know.. I wasn't really aware that kr only happened in GTPs but now I do so thanks again

Sent from my LG-MS910 using Tapatalk 2
 
I'll be at the track in a few weeks to weigh my car just to be a little more accurate with the app. Any guesses on times? Nothing major done. Just the overkill PCM 605s shift kit and intake. I'm gonna guess 14.3 @ 91 mph. ;)

I will say this tho. Even on a stock pulley stock top end that PCM noticeably opened up the car and it shifts pretty damn hard. And quick
 
My wife's Bonneville sees kr in the regular na 3800
TLSheff said:
The KR only matters if you have a supercharger/turbo. NA shouldn't ever experience KR... ever.

Oil temp and Oil Pressure won't work unless you change out the switch, factory is just a default "dummy" switch that works in either you have pressure or you don't, if you don't you are about to know it anyways.

Standard weight is in the 3400-3500 neighborhood without anyone/thing in the car.
Click to expand...
 


no na's also have kr. It's just the pcm pulling timing when sensing knock. It can happen in any motor really.
 
Granted, yes technically it CAN happen in any motor... but if you are experiencing knock in a NA motor, you have something wrong with your motor. No NA should have knock if the motor is working properly.

The common reason for KR we experience with Supercharged/Turbo'd motors is pre-detonation knock which pulls timing and causes issues.
http://www.grandprixforums.net/what-octane-kr-explained-here-1507.html
Old thread but very solid information. Should explain it better.
 
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