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glendayle's 99 Buick Regal GS

Well, maybe you can help me confirm. I'm running the dayco 685. Maybe I should be running a 680 or 675. Not really sure. Belt looks normal on there though. I'm thinking I need to get a new tensioner pulley. Maybe I need to remove this one and make sure it is tightened down correctly.

I've got the 2" IC from SSEILMNOP
GenV
3.2 pulley
 


Sounds to me like you've got the right belt. So long as the tensioner's putting pressure on it and not all the way down, you should be pretty set on length.
 
When I was pulling on the tensioner to load the belt, I noticed that the "swing" seemed to be a little off. I need to check that out. Maybe it's not tightened down all the way or needs to be replaced.
 
I believe I have found the culprit to my problem.

It looks like my tensioner assembly was not installed correctly. You can tell it's slightly off.
20130416_165253.jpg



I removed it and reinstalled it and now it looks better.......and the belt is staying on. Looks like I probably ought to replace my idler pulley.
20130416_165657.jpg
 


Not sure which DTC codes to disable. I'm using DHP so please let me know if I'm doing this the wrong way.

Is it these ones?
EGR
P400 -408

EVAP
P440-449 and 496
 
Trying to wire up a toggle switch. I got this from radio shack and it has a diagram on the back, but I don't understand it. Ultimately I will be installing this in my car to control a relay which will control an intercooler pump. Right now I'm just messing around with a battery and some test leads and a little led light strip.


I can get the switch to work to control the light strip, but the switch is also supposed to have a small red light while in the off position and a small green light when in the on position. I can't seem to get this to work properly.


If anyone can draw me a simple diagram I would appreciate it. Here is the diagram on the packaging, but as stated, I just don't understand it. Note, there are only pins on position 1, 2, and 4. Position 3 is not there and not used.
09180b.jpg



Any help appreciated.
 


OK, I've dicked around with the PWM for the last couple of days. For some reason, the device is not functioning properly. It is just working like a switch and that is not going to fly. So in the meantime while I figure that thing out, I'm just going to wire in a toggle switch. So I finished putting my front end back on today. My FMHE is not exactly level. I'll have to decide if it's going to annoy me or not. I may put a thin coat of black paint on the FMHE. It's been way too long since I had the front end on. And if you think your eyes are playing tricks on you, they are not, my driveway is slanted the opposite directions so these pics have all sorts of weird angles going on in them.

20130427_173418.jpg


20130427_173619.jpg


20130427_173614.jpg
 
I was just thinking. I think my high RPMs have to do with switching to N*. I'm guessing I need to adjust the length of the throttle cable or the the position or something. Anyone know how to adjust this?
 
Yup.. Post a picture of the bracket and I'll try and show you how I cut it.

BTW.. Buick's were really meant to have a better shifter. :th_thumbsup-wink:


Hopefully that didn't blow your mind.
 


K.. hook them up one at a time and find the one that's causing it. I've seen the way they sit on the strut tower being an issue before.
 
K.. hook them up one at a time and find the one that's causing it. I've seen the way they sit on the strut tower being an issue before.

Well, they sort of both do it.
The cable with coming from the cruise control module barely moves it.
The throttle cable is the one that really has the problem. If I unclip it from the bracket, everything moves about 1-1.5cm further back.
 
That's odd. Take a pic of the bracket on your tb please.

We've all seen ZZP oddities causing issues...but that would be a pretty bad fab errror.

and no comment? lol
 
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