I have a 97 grand prix gtp that I have had for a about 3 months now. Recently took a small trip about an hour and when I got back I had a CEL and car wouldn't run worth a crap. If I give it gas it won't rev over 1500 rpms and its popping and stuttering. I found a blown fuse that took care of my check engine light but I cannot figure out why it is stuttering so bad. It will idle fine but the second I give it gas it runs crappy. Replaced MAF because of CEL and replaced the fuel filter. I have 55 psi on the fuel pressure gauge. I tried the fuel pump tab on the relay and still same. Now I have no check engine light and car runs crappy. I do not have a tech scanner unfortunately just a can scanner that give me a small amount of live data. Any info or help would be great. Thanks!
Help! new to site and grand prix's car runs like crap!
- Thread starter RuderGTP
- Start date
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
was it bolted to the coil bracket stud? if so put it back, thats the ground for the icm.
The wire was just a single wire rubbing against the bolt that hold the connector. I moved the wire and taped it up. This is crazy. I checked my intake tube I checked the data logs for all the sensors and they are all working fine. ECT is reading the coolant temp and changing as it idles. IAT is working. I may have to try and post a video of how it is running.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
if playing with the crank and cam sensor harness made a code for a crank sensor come up, you may have a bad harness, or a bad crank sensor, they have been known to make a car run poorly, and stall while just driving.
a bad icm can also do this, crazy as it sounds, more then one guy has had the icm tested and it passed, then they change it and the car runs better.
keep in mind, the icm and crank sensor work together, if one is bad the other suffers, same goes for the harness, bad wires wont flow the right current, and it tosses a code.
a bad icm can also do this, crazy as it sounds, more then one guy has had the icm tested and it passed, then they change it and the car runs better.
keep in mind, the icm and crank sensor work together, if one is bad the other suffers, same goes for the harness, bad wires wont flow the right current, and it tosses a code.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
did you cut the wire, and strip it back and re solder it? or just moved it?
broken insulation on wires will toss a code or make the car run bad. the crank sensor rarely sets the code when it goes bad too.
what happens is the nice shinny copper wire turns brown, aka tarnishes, just like copper left outside, once its get air getting to it, this dry wire will travel up the wires, you need to strip the wires till you have clean shinny copper wire showing, then either solder in a new piece of wire, or just re solder, depends on how much wire is damaged inside the insulation.
pick up some shrink tubes too. solder and shrink tubes is the best way to replace or repair wires. butt connector sucks. use them if you want to do it 2 times.
broken insulation on wires will toss a code or make the car run bad. the crank sensor rarely sets the code when it goes bad too.
what happens is the nice shinny copper wire turns brown, aka tarnishes, just like copper left outside, once its get air getting to it, this dry wire will travel up the wires, you need to strip the wires till you have clean shinny copper wire showing, then either solder in a new piece of wire, or just re solder, depends on how much wire is damaged inside the insulation.
pick up some shrink tubes too. solder and shrink tubes is the best way to replace or repair wires. butt connector sucks. use them if you want to do it 2 times.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
if the insulation is clearly open, get some soldering goods if you dont have them already, and then cut and check out the wire. if it dont have dry wire yet, it will later on for sure. if the wires is good and clean still at least you'll save your self from another headache later on.