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ZZP S2 Intecooler Issues

moddman

moddman

Donating Users
My install went pretty smooth but with one issue. My engine coolant gauge fluctuates up & down from 210* to 190* while Im cruising.... with an 180* stat. I have been bleeding the system like crazy for three days and it is always full with no signs of air. While Im at idle its always at 190* steady until I start driving when all this starts happening. The fans kick in and I cool down to 190* only for it to start again. I already tried changing the stat with no avail. My car never did this before.....Whats going on?
 


Air pocket. Buy a spill free funnel and fill it up on the rad so the coolant is higher than the engine, then try bleeding again.
 
I have the air lock evacuator tool somewhere in my garage. I just have to dig it out in order to use it to effectively purge all the air out of that engine. Seems like that would be the only efficent way of doing it with positive results.
 


I just got done connecting scanner. The car warms up idling steady at 188*F. As soon as you rev the engine the car starts building up heat climbs to 195*F and immediately both fans come on high speed to cool off back down to 188*F.
 
That does seem strange as per the high fan turn on. Though the low fans are are constantly on since the engine is already running hotter than the thermostat/low turn on speed.
Also, the original oem sensor I was told it cracked in pieces during the install and they changed it with a BWD sensor. That sensor turned out to be defective pegging the coolant needle on the dash. I then warrantied that sensor out and installed it and did not peg the needle anymore. I was thinking of going to the dealership and just picking up a oem one maybe that would solve things or then again maybe not. Hopefully it is a simple sensor causing the mayhem.:th_nervous:
btw thanks for the advice:th_thumbsup-wink:
 
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2001 Pontiac Grand Prix Engine Overheating


DEFINITION: The engine temperature lamp comes on and stays on, the temperature gauge shows hot or coolant overflows from the coolant recovery reservoir onto the ground while the engine is running.
1
Check for a loss of coolant.
Has there been a loss of coolant?
--
Go to 2
Go to 3
2
Refer to Loss of Coolant
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to 3
System OK
3
Check for a loss of system pressure.
Use the J24460-1
Has there been a loss of system pressure?
--
Go to 4
Go to 5
4
Correct the system pressure.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to 5
System OK
5
Check for low coolant protection.
Use the J23688
Is the low coolant protection at or above the specified value?
-37°C (-34°F)
Go to 7
Go to 6
6
Correct as necessary.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to 7
System OK
7
Check for an inoperative cooling fan. Refer to Cooling Fan Inoperative .
Are there any inoperative cooling fans?
--
Go to 8
Go to 9
8
Repair or replace the electric cooling fans as necessary. Refer to Cooling Fan Replacement - Electric .
Does the engine still overheat?
--
--
Go to 9
9

  1. Check the accessory drive belt tension.
  2. Check the tensioner.
Is the tensioner working properly and the tension correct?
--
Go to 11
Go to 10
10
Replace the tensioner as necessary. Refer to one of the following procedures:


  • Replace Belt Tensioner in Engine Mechanical - 3.8L
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to 11
System OK
11
Check to see if any of the radiator fins are obstructed.
Are any of radiator fins obstructed?
--
Go to 12
Go to 13
12

  1. Remove or relocate any add-on parts that block air to the radiator.
  2. Remove any debris from the radiator fins.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to 13
System OK
13
Check to see if any of the cooling system passages are blocked by rust or scale.
Are any of the cooling system passages blocked by rust or scale?
--
Go to 14
Go to 15
14

  1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System . .
  2. Flush the cooling system. Refer to Flushing .
  3. Repair as necessary.
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to 15
System OK
15
Check for a pinched or kinked coolant recovery reservoir hose.
Is the reservoir hose pinched or kinked?
--
Go to 16
Go to 17
16
Replace or reroute the hose as necessary. Refer to Coolant Recovery Reservoir Replacement
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to 17
System OK
17
Check for a loose, damaged, and/or missing deflector.
Are there any loose, damaged, or missing deflectors?
--
Go to 18
Go to 19
18
Replace the deflectors. Refer to Radiator Air Baffle Assemblies and Deflectors .
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to 19
System OK
19
Check to see if the thermostat is stuck in the closed position.
Is the thermostat stuck in the closed position?
--
Go to 20
Go to 21
20
Replace the thermostat. Refer to Thermostat Replacement .
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to 21
System OK
21
Check for a faulty water pump.
Is the water pump faulty?
--
Go to 22
Go to 23
22
Replace the water pump. Refer to Water Pump Replacement .
Does the engine still overheat?
--
Go to 23
System OK
23
Check for an incorrect radiator.
Is the radiator correct?
--
Go to 24
--
24
Install the correct radiator. Refer to Radiator Replacement .
Does the engine still overheat?
--
--
System OK
See where it says "check for missing air deflectors". The installers said the deflectors would not fit anymore on the car and they did not install them. This is what would be causing hotter engine temps while cruising. Did anybody put these back on for their install w/ front mount?
 
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To finalize the ordeal with the car, it turns out the the intake manifold gaskets were not done correctly and air pockets were getting into the coolant passages which was causing the "overheating-type conditions". No matter how many times I bled the engine every time the engine ran it built up more air in the cooling system....a lose-lose situation. So this ends the mystery of the intercooler install taking a slight turn for the worse. Luckily it is winter cause if it was summer my engine would of been toast. Thanks to everyone that were here to help me out. This was a learning experience for getting the gaskets done right the first time around. :th_thumbsup-wink:
 


It looks as if the install took a major turn for the worse. I asked a question online to gm techs about my problem.Just read here as follows:It speaks for itself my head gaskets were affected causing more damage.:th_angry-censored:

Got the car back and engine immediately started running @190*F at idle and gauge rapidly moves to 210*F fahrenheit occurring immediately upon driving. The car finally cools down when the high fans both come on to cool it down to 190"F. The car never did this before and is running a 180*F thermostat and the computer is programmed accordingly to run that thermostat. Taking all that into account considering my car never ran hot or overheated while in my possession. Was it an installer issue or a mechanical/electric issue. The following have already been attempted:New 180*F thermostat,New coolant sensor,exchanged coolant(dex-cool) 50/50 mix,and vacuumed-bled/filled with Uview Airlift coolant tool.
If the cooling system was bled incorrectly by the installers of the lower intake gaskets wouldn't that cause the damage to the head gaskets. Also, I am not losing any coolant, if there was head gasket damage wouldn't I lose coolant or be burning white smoke from the tail pipe?


Expert
An air pocket in the cooling system can definitely cause overheating and damage to the head gaskets if the engine were run long enough in this condition. This is about the only thing that could be causing the overheating issue you are now experiencing.


Also, I am not losing any coolant, if there was head gasket damage wouldn't I lose coolant or be burning white smoke from the tail pipe? This would be my final answer needed to satisfy my question and curiousity in order to get my vehicle repaired.

Expert
You will not always pull coolant into the combustion chamber with a damaged head gasket. The combustion pressures are high enough however to push combustion gases into the cooling system.
 
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