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ZZP diff squirter

JJ91284

JJ91284

New member
Anybody have an idea or picture on how zzp does this? I have a general idea of probably how they do it, but I would like to see before I attempt to do it.
 


JJ91284 said:
Anybody have an idea or picture on how zzp does this? I have a general idea of probably how they do it, but I would like to see before I attempt to do it.
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Yeah, and there are pics out there showing what exactly is done but they're not the easiest thing in the world to find. Plus I have no idea if your actually suppose to find them. I have them, but I sure as heck am not going to be the one to post them up since I have no idea where they came from. lol


But what is your 'general idea' of how it works? Maybe I can help point you in the right direction or let you know if your already right.
 
From the pics I saw forever ago, it was a small metal line that lead from a pressure source(i assume off the valve body or maybe an internal pressure port(if those exist)) and led into the diff. housing to a nozzle that sprayed on the diff. simple but very very effective :th_thumbsup-wink:

Edit:
Hey OP, you live in my town!!
 
Ive been contemplating this myself. I have pictures of it done both ways, one used a connection to the external pressure port and fed that over to the diff cover where a hole had been drilled and the other end of the line connected.

Ive also seen where it was done internally by tapping into the hard lines in the pan (I believe it went to the accumulator or something like that) and then that tap was fed over to the differential internally.

It doesnt seem like a hard thing to do. The only concern I have I guess would be controlling flow. In other words, do you want all the pressure that is at that external pressure port piped over to the differential? Is that going to starve the rest of the transmission for fluid?

If there was some place I could safely tap into without any concerns I would do it without question or hesitation. I dont know how effective overall it would be or in the long run how necessary it would be (Trannyman would be the authority on that) but I sure wouldnt mind the peace of mind of having some fluid directed onto that differential during high load events when fluids, particularly tranny fluid, can get squeezed from between surfaces.

Tranny fluid does not have the extreme pressure agents that motor oil or gear oil has so it is much easier to force out from between surfaces.
 
I've only seen the diff squirter where they tap and braze the tranny pressure line in the accumulator area. I actually like the high pressure port more. I would be slightly concerned about starving the tranny of fluid. Do they use a misting nozzle or do they just pinch the line going into the diff area to create a spray .
 
JJ91284 said:
I've only seen the diff squirter where they tap and braze the tranny pressure line in the accumulator area. I actually like the high pressure port more. I would be slightly concerned about starving the tranny of fluid. Do they use a misting nozzle or do they just pinch the line going into the diff area to create a spray .
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Thats a good question. Information on that has been hard to come by. You dont need a lot of fluid put on the differential and them and then mainly only during high load conditions.

I may be over complicating things, but I have thought if you could put some type of pressure valve on the differential end, something that would only open up under so much fluid pressure, you could install one that would not open up until maybe 70 - 80 psi (not sure about the number) and then only pass say 5 psi of pressure.
 


The diff squirter is tapped into a lube feed tube in the bottom of the trans. This is the return lube feed that comes from the trans cooler and is a geartrain lube feed and is the tube that goes up into the internal ring gear- the part that the diff rides in inside the end of the trans. Lube pressure is not generally very high and is normally in the 20-40 psi range and volume is more important that pressure here as the fluid needs cooled and internal parts need lube oil to prevent wear and gualling. After the fluid goes back into the trans and goes through the lube feed tube back into the trans it goes straight to the center of the internal ring gear and fluid is forced through small lube holes in the shaft to keep plenty of fluid in the geartrain and bushings. The diff squirter is tapped into this tube and is a hard metal line that is near crimped shut on the end to create a spray pattern, or that is the idea anyways as other than running the car with no trans pan and sucking fluid from a remote pan or bucket there is no way to see what is really coming out. This is a good idea since trans fluid is so thin as it keeps the diff wet with constant fluid on it. This is the main reason I use the fluid that I do mixed with trans fluid. It is a heavier bodied industrial fluid that doesnt fling off of metal parts like normal trans fluid and lubricates much better, especially in the diff area. I have never had a diff failure, that I know of anyways, in my builds or cars that have been using this fluid and also why I am not concerned about a diff squirter though it would still assist keeping the diff flooded with fluid.
 
Yeah one-wheel-peels are fun in high school, just not good for your daily driver that you DONT want to break! One of the local cars that I built a few years back gets its share of rough treatment and lots of very harsh burnouts and many of them being one wheel marks for well over a hundred feet at a time. A year or so back we had the drivetrain out for some engine work and to install a 3.29 single chain conversion and the diff was still like new. The car has over 135K one it and is the original diff and again it had tons of one wheel burnouts. He has been using my fluid mix since I built the trans 3 years ago and has definately proven its worthiness in differential longevity.
 
diffsquirter1.jpg

diffsquirter2.jpg
 


Ron Vogel said:
diffsquirter1.jpg
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Now here is my question. A line is brazed into another and there is a soft line just down from there. I understand that if done correctly brazed lines are solid and reliable, but why go that route when you have a soft line you could use to install a T into or something?

Why not disconnect one end of that soft line, install a T or something, maybe with a line that is 1/8 - 3/16" dia., use another soft line to connect the other end of the T back up to the hard line and then just route the T over to where the squirter is going.

I mean, wouldnt that be easier? It seems, to me anyway, that it would most certainly be easier for the 'home mechanic' such as myself that doesnt have access to brazing tools.
 
AN fitting could easily handle the 20-40 psi or what not. As far as vibration goes, they use them in aircraft engines bay which have a lot of vibration. I would know this because my dad and I built a Vans Aircraft RV-6A about 8 years ago.
 


AN = Air Force/ Navy. We put those fittings under much more extreme conditions than inside a tranny pan. How about on the side of a jet engine at supersonic speeds and temps in excess of 700*F?
 
I dunno if I want any Air Force/Navy stuff in my car. Its been reported to cause all kinds of weird stuff, LOL.

Well that is good info to know. I guess now its just a matter of finding out where its best to tap in and what size tube to use. I was thinking 1/8 - 3/16" would be perfect, but I havent checked to see if there are AN fittings for that small of tubing. I would imagine there is, I think brake line is on the upper end of that range.
 
Yeah they make AN fittings smaller than 3/16 I believe. We had some 3/16 tubing on the plane for priming the engine.

AN fittings are 37 degrees when flared correctly, while brake lines are flared at 45 degrees. Most flare tools are 45 degrees so to be done right, you should invest in a 37 degree tool. Although you should be fine with a 45 degree tool as the pressure is so low, and it wouldn't matter a whole lot if you did have a leak:th_biggrin2:
 
JJ91284 said:
Yeah they make AN fittings smaller than 3/16 I believe. We had some 3/16 tubing on the plane for priming the engine.

AN fittings are 37 degrees when flared correctly, while brake lines are flared at 45 degrees. Most flare tools are 45 degrees so to be done right, you should invest in a 37 degree tool. Although you should be fine with a 45 degree tool as the pressure is so low, and it wouldn't matter a whole lot if you did have a leak:th_biggrin2:
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That is true. Where do I find a 37* flaring tool? I do not believe I have ever seen one of those locally before.
 
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