• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Your Parts Ideas

I seen those pullies and they look awesome and I hope the guy puts them into production, I will be all over a set of those. I have waited for a LONG time for that to be available to the community.
 


GR8racingfool said:
Have you any idea what the price of titanium is? ;)

Example...a regular steel bicycle spoke costs $0.25 to $0.35, a titanium spoke runs $3.00 to $4.50 each. You want them polished? The price jumps to $8.00 each. Typically a bicycle wheel has around 36 spokes per rim...you do the math.

But good idea none the less. Them would be sweet.

~F~
Click to expand...

Yes I have seen the prices...lol. But it it is a supply and demand thing really. They have the process they call the titanium sponge because of the price of making it, but they have new ways now that are a lot cheaper. Ti is 60% lighter than steel, yet just as strong. There is a higher raw material cost but when you compare side by side it is about equal once everything is accounted for plus it lasts longer. Check out a couple sites here:
http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=2755
New Process Could Cause Titanium Price To Tumble
 
SyntheticShield said:
What do I want to see:

1. Complete Aluminum pulley replacement for everything, crank, WP, Idlers, tensioners, etc.

2. I would like to see a spacer for the hood hinges, so those with stock hoods can lift the hood a little so that a little heat extraction can take place. I have this done to my hood and Ive removed the rubber thing that the hood sits on. I used some thick fender washers and it worked nicely. Really, you can notice it there.

3. I would definitely like to see more dress up items for the engine bay. Not necessarily chrome or all shiny, just neater and better looking.
Click to expand...

I've also got a "black book" for things like this, as Farns would say... although mine's the back of a large envelope, and only about 11-12 items.

#1 - the guy is Nate Herbst (nherbst454) from MNClubGP... his site is Smoothflow Pulleys (he's currently taking dimensions for the idlers and WP pulleys... Load97 posted the 1st set Nate made for his MP112 setup 2yrs ago on both of the other big forums)

#2 - It took me a whole 5min to make a set of these for my roommate's Pre-gen swapped car with I/C (less room than 97+... we originally used washers too, until he got a Gen V and had Farnsworth polish it... didn't wanna risk rubbing that gem, so we lifted it more) I'm sure one of us could make a short write-up with dimensions to do this for $7 in Home Depot material.

#3 - For engine clean-up, I'm a fan of capping the vac tree, and re-routing lines to the back-side for hiding (works best on Gen V cars that have an extra port which happens to like 1/4" pipe taps). You should see my plans for improving on that concept. :th_eyebrows: I also make much simpler/cleaner throttle cable brackets for the N* TB's that about 20 or so folks are running now. Those aren't too hard, when you see what I've done.

Simple things like plug wire & harness routing are makers & breakers on underhood appearance. To fully combat the ugliness of the harness, a little more in-depth work can be done, but things like that are hard to just buy unless you get a complete harness re-done.

It's the little details you need to attack all over the engine bay, for a clean overall look. As far as mods go, it's a bit more complex, and as we've read, it takes more professional approaches to create those types of changes in an efficient manner.

- Dave

- Dave
 
I saw Nates posts on the other forum, if you know him, see if he wouldnt mind signing up here and when he gets the pulleys to production he could sell a few. I for one would love to see the progress. I have been kinda chompin at the bit for something like this for a long time and Im glad to see him taking on this task and hope he makes a mint.

I was going to do a write up on the spacers (as simple as it is anyway) but I thought most would think it was stupid so I just kinda kept it to myself. It does a good job at heat extraction though.

I currently have my wiring harness completely tore apart with the goal of re-routing everything hopefully in a much cleaner and neater fashion. If you have done this before I sure would love to see some of your work if you wouldnt mind sharing. Im looking for any and all ideas with this regards so that I make sure I run everything smartly and dont find out a week after the car is on the road I toasted or destroyed half the harness because of poor planning.
 
Nate's from the MN club. He's a really cool, mellow guy & would be happy to inform you guys as well as the bunch of other local & national boards we're all on. :th_jester:

Here's an example of the BEST engine bay I've had the joy of working on... LINK... it belongs to my old roommate from MN, NinetySix... he re-did the entire harness to only have one line across each side of the motor, etc... I re-did the vacuum system during the Gen V-S3 I/C swap... he had Farns do the s/c polishing... removed nearly everything that isn't required for a summer-only non-daily car.

- Dave
 
Holy Moo Moo, that is a clean engine bay. I see some lines that look like they are coming from the transmission to the back side of the motor, what are those or are those the fuel lines?

That is a very clean set up.
 


Yes, he bought AN lines to run to the ZZP logs back in '05 for his old I/C setup. Currently fastest Pre-97 FWD GP at 12.1, at the only shake-down track trip we took last summer on this setup. He spent alot of time over the past 4-5 years picking away at the appearance any time the engine was getting messed with. Exterior of the car still looks like a clean, near-stock 3100 GP SE aside from exhaust sound.

- Dave
 
Been talking with a local machinist about doing a one off patented design for our cars from billet.

It will be for the supercharger only...and never done before on our cars.

Maybe next year at BGPM '09 it will be unveiled for the first time to the public. Who knows. :th_scratchhead::th_thumb-up::th_thumb-up:

Will be working with SFPHQ.com with the project as well.

~F~
 
SyntheticShield said:
I currently have my wiring harness completely tore apart with the goal of re-routing everything hopefully in a much cleaner and neater fashion. If you have done this before I sure would love to see some of your work if you wouldnt mind sharing. Im looking for any and all ideas with this regards so that I make sure I run everything smartly and dont find out a week after the car is on the road I toasted or destroyed half the harness because of poor planning.
Click to expand...


James Told me that none of ther wires need to be extended, cause they lead all the way beck to the pcm anyway.... I personally would find some hi-temp wire loom and run it wherever it was out-of-sight
 
02BlueGT said:
James Told me that none of ther wires need to be extended, cause they lead all the way beck to the pcm anyway.... I personally would find some hi-temp wire loom and run it wherever it was out-of-sight
Click to expand...

Nearly all of them do. But they are tangled some and in order to make it look need I'll probably either have to pull the pin out of the connector, untangle it and then replace or just cut the wire and resplice it. But it should be a bit easier than I originally thought it would be, just time consuming.
 


Looks to be awesome, Jason. I'll try keeping up with the post there. See if SFPHQ can help with a Magnuson-style keyed pulley for it, I know they have the regular serpentine ones.

- Dave
 
Also, here's something I sorta "had" to do for my MP112 swap this week. Came up with the idea while dismantling it, and not all bolts were able to pull out until it was all dismantled (s/c bolts to IC plate from underside).

0910081215.jpg


I used a meter of threaded rod from McMaster, zinc plated but I'll probably go for SS next time, since the cut ends may rust over time (I rtv'd the tops when the nuts were torqued down).

- Dave
 
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