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Yet another big 3 question

W

whitegxp

New member
I've searched and read, but I'm still confused on whats right from wrong.

I used all 1/0 welding cable. 2001 GT

1. ran a piece from + of batt. to stud on fuse box, then from stud to alt post.

2. ran a piece from - of batt to chassis (under fuse box/pass. fender)

3. ran a piece from - of batt to engine ground ( on driver side of the block, under the manifold)

4. Is this all correct or should I run a piece right from the + of the batt to the alt? If so, does it need to be fused?

5. Now with grounding, do I need to add a block to chassis piece, or is my block to - of batt. okay? I've read so many different ways I'm lost as to whats right from wrong.

AND

6. It that even the right engine ground (the driver side one under the manifold)?

7. There is also one under the coil pack bracket and one on the driver side bolted to the core support.

I know this may be confusing but I just want to get it straight!
 


I might be the a$$hole for this...what's the goal? Audio related? Why do you need to upgrade your system? Need more voltage?

If you can't figure out why you need "big 3" upgrade...chances are you DON'T need it. Big 3 really doesn't help anything with a stock alternator to be honest.

FYI, My a/b amps can push ~2000 watts total if needed. I don't have a Big 3 upgrade and no issues with dimming lights.
 
The overall purpose is to achieve more current and voltage flow.

I left stock wiring in a 1999 blazer a few years back and had dimming and voltage drops like crazy running smaller amps then I have now. I added to the wiring in that and it fixed the problem.

I've read it does and doesn't help, but in my experience is has helped. I plan to upgrade my alt and batt, as well as another batt in the truck. I'm running a AQ2200D thats 2200 RMS and a mb quart 4 channel thats rated at 125RMS x4 @4 ohm.

I never ran this setup I have without the big 3, so I don't have a comparison, but I believe what you're saying.

and you're NOT being asshole, I see your point. I just have the wiring laying around so I figured why not.
 
i like the amp but unless you got that thing clamped i KNOW its no 2200 with how your car is now...

you should fuse the alt to batt or in your case "stud" unless you want the risk of something to blow up....

and i used the tranny/engine ground on the drivers side its on the bottom kinda hard to get too
 
Alright I think I'm going to remove the 2 pieces going from the + batt. to fuse block, fuse block to alt and make that one fused piece. What size fuse for this piece?

Thats the ground I was talking about in # 3 of my setup, I have it going from there to the - of the batt. Then I added to the stock,one from - batt. to the passenger fender. I just don't know if that covers me for all the grounds......

I know I'm not getting all 2200, not even close, thats why I wanted to upgrade my alt and batt up front and maybe a kinetik in the back.
 
stock alt generates 110 Amps at some unknown engine speed.

Thats 1584 watts at the output terminal of your alternator... So tell me how you plan to magically make up the rest of the power, and get it to the amp?

None of the things you mentioned will help you.

Just do the "big three" and get a HO alternator already. You dont need special batteries or a cap unless your amp sucks.

http://www.oqcgp.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=51927

Follow what that guy did...
 


I'm not magically making up any power. I was stating what wattage my amps put out. Relax it's okay. I stated I WAS getting a HO alt. The purpose of this thread was to clarify if what I had already done big 3 wise, was correct. I would never run a cap, they're the biggest joke going.

Thanks for the link that confirms what I've done it correct.
 
If you are running an H.O. alt then there IS a benefit to big 3--assuming you ARE using that power. However, you should be aware of v-droop and amperage that the length of a cable can maintain. If I were you, I'd upgrade the wiring but get rid of a secondary battery. Unless you plan to run your system when the engine is off there's no real use for it.
 


I800C0LLECT said:
If you are running an H.O. alt then there IS a benefit to big 3--assuming you ARE using that power. However, you should be aware of v-droop and amperage that the length of a cable can maintain. If I were you, I'd upgrade the wiring but get rid of a secondary battery. Unless you plan to run your system when the engine is off there's no real use for it.
Click to expand...


Alright ill keep that in mind, thanks!
 
What amp fuse should go between my alt and + of the batt? I'm assuming this answer will change once I have a HO alt.
 


there is its all on what it replaces mine was the more expensive one but eh

the Delco # is what you want to be looking for if you have a stock alt it will be facing the hood bottom of numbers to the pass fender i can get a pic if really needed lol
 
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