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XPZ or XP/Nitrous



I would personally put the nitrous kit back on the Trans Am and step up the shot. LSx engines love nitrous. They stand up and applaud when you give them nitrous.
 


TeeWX said:
I would personally put the nitrous kit back on the Trans Am and step up the shot. LSx engines love nitrous. They stand up and applaud when you give them nitrous.
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It's still a possibility...I'm more inclined to run nitrous on a $200 junkyard motor rather than a $11,000 built motor. I'm not scared of nitrous, but I am well aware that accidents do happen, even on the best set up systems. If I feel the T/A needs more power, I'll piece together another kit, or just continue saving for a turbo.
 
ls1camino said:
Seriously? I thought a lot of people used the L26 blocks for the compression bump.
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They do, but there's a certain amount of power/boost/rpm you shouldn't run on a stock L26... and that amount is a good deal lower than it is on the supercharged blocks.
 
I'm thinking I should just get some forged pistons and be done with it.

The likely hood of me finding a L67 or L32 motor around here is near impossible. I have a set of L32 rods I picked up awhile ago, so a set of forged pistons would match that nicely.

OR, I could just order some hypereutectic pistons from ZZP...not sure what the future holds for this car, maybe a turbo. Would Forged Pistons be too much?
 
If I don't go with the ARP Rod Bolts...are the stock rod bolts reusable? I read somewhere that they are not TTY bolts. Can anyone confirm or deny?
 


As from what Ive read and seen around the 3800 forums bearings are likely to fail more often than the components so says PRJ too IIRC becasue the bearings are softer metal and junk by some standards. Tho I have no idea what other options would be available. I havnt seen many trashed components more thrown rod and cam bearings than anything. But what the hell do I know right?
 
You might want to run double the OE gap.

People chip L67 pistons as well.

Detonation weakens the pistons, they eventually chip.

Top ring gap is way too tight for what we try and do with these motors.

On rod strength:
L26 < L36 < L67 < L32.


Have to agree with rod bearing issues.

It seems series II had **** quality control on the rod mass. Series III had much lower tolerances.

I'd venture to guess this is significant in our motors considering they're externally balanced.

Also: I actually found a thread where someone broke a stock crankshaft.

Into three pieces.

HOWEVER, had it machined so the workmanship is in question there.
 
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On the broken CS...I really hope your not talking about Nick Manchen's pile in Chicago...that ****ing car...full of LOL's and it's 10:1 motor.
 


I feel I should make a new thread for the engine rebuild since the question I originally asked has been answered.

It would help for future people searching for engine rebuild *shrug*
 
Not to hijack, but my motor is about to be complimented with an s1x and a gen v. It is a 104k L67 that runs perfect. I should be okay with the proper tune, correct?
 
crbquist said:
Not to hijack, but my motor is about to be complimented with an s1x and a gen v. It is a 104k L67 that runs perfect. I should be okay with the proper tune, correct?
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are you going to run a double timing chain or a new stock gm chain?

either will be fine with 105# crow springs
 
all we have to do is edit the tags at the bottom here as thats how things are searched.

or if you want to make a new one thats entirely up to you.
 
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