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XP Cam setups

bbptech

bbptech

New member
Ok so if some of u read my other thread about another rebuild i have to do this is the new part of it.

I am having the block built for pretty cheap. Its going to be honed, decked, hot tanked, new cam bearings, new connecting rod and main bearings, L36 rods and pistons, and XP Cam. I bought the cam yesterday as impulse. very glad i bought it as i didnt wanna spend bookoo on a new. I picked it up with 7K on it. Heads are going to be checked. Gonna put the double roller back in and run 130's with it on stock rockers.

my questions are what other brand springs should i look at other than Comp Cams? Where can i get new TTY Main Bolts and TTY Connecting Rod Bolts? Should i run ARP Main Studs instead?
 


do they need thread sealant on them at all? i asked because the first time with my head studs i screwed up and didnt put any thread sealant on them and they leaked. I know the holes for the main bolts arent drilled into collant jackets but i figured id ask.
 
i dont believe they do. the reason i say studs is that everything in the bottom end is tty. so to do it properly you'd need to buy 2 sets of rod and main bolts. one for your plastigage and throw them away, then use the other set for final. it makes no sense to me. so if i were to ever EVER touch the bottom end on another 3800 i would get arp everything from the get go.
 
including ARP connecting rod bolts? with the L67 and L36 rods, do they need to be machined also to accomodated the bolts or is that just for the L32 rods?
 
i think i read somewhere that if you use the arp rod bolts you need to bolt the cap to the rod and torque it, then have it machined to be round again. or something like that.
 


ill probably just buy TTY for those and call it good. Do they need to be plastgaged as well or just mains?
 
well i know the machinist will do that while hes building it. but ill be sure sure to make sure he does that.
 
To run ARP Rod bolts you have to machine the rod to make them fit correctly...thats why I just bought TTY bolts. ARP Main and Head studs...YES. The luck you have lately is like Korey and my own...so incase another fiasco happens...you won't have to buy head bolts...same with rocker bolts too...get reusable if you haven't yet.
 
i have ARP Head Studs, and CC Reusable Rocker Bolts already, ARP Mains are now on the list. Do u by chance have a part number to the TTY connecting rod bolts by chance Blue?

I hate my luck with this. Its definetly not something to be proud having to do this all over again.
 


bluegtp91 said:
To run ARP Rod bolts you have to machine the rod to make them fit correctly...thats why I just bought TTY bolts. ARP Main and Head studs...YES. The luck you have lately is like Korey and my own...so incase another fiasco happens...you won't have to buy head bolts...same with rocker bolts too...get reusable if you haven't yet.
Click to expand...

what happened with your car now?
 


Manley 130's.

I have them...Intense used to sell them...I don't know what happened to them...Crow 105's will work just fine with a XP though.
 
Maybe...but you'll be out of your TQ. making range at 6200...any more than that is pointless, your over revving it. Hence why Rocker'd cars should shift at 6K and cammed cars at 6200-ish depends on the mod level. The #130's IMO...are there to support a rough, nasty, high revving cam...if your going with a baby cam like the XP...then there is no need.
 
Why go 130 when you don't need them? Do the 105's, or the LS6 and stick with the stock timing chain, then you can save your money for elsewhere. I don't personally see the need to do that, even I went with 105's on mine and it's just fine.
 
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