• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

WTB Camshaft/pushrods/accessories (need advice)

wstefan20

New member
Well, I've finally got the permission from the wife to finish up my upgrades and topswap while the engine is out! I know it's a long shot, but figured I'd see if anyone had any used parts for sale before I go ahead and spend the money for new.

Other part of this post is that I'm not 100% sure what y'all recommend for camshafts. I've seen a lot of conflicting information regarding gtp cams. Basically, I want something that I can do without machining heads (if possible), and still have plenty of room for pulley drops and upgrades. For now, I'm thinking of ZZP's XP cam with LS7 lifters 7" pushrods, dual timing chain, gxp chains for my transmission, and 130# springs (is this too heavy?). However, I've heard some pretty unsavory things about ZZP's quality and customer service, so if there's another camshaft that's better, I'd be open to it. I intend on starting out with the stock pulley size since this will be my first topswap, so that I can get comfortable with tuning first. Any other parts that I'm missing to go with this cam?

Anyways, thanks in advance!
 


Like you I had heard rumors and decided to call around and ensure the correct specs with the parts I was putting together. ZZP wouldn't answer a simple question, while Intense did. Each company has had their good and bad over the years. ZZP consistently in my personal experience let me down. I went with the Intense S1X cam as XP and S1X are similar in power etc.

Not understanding why the pushrod change? Both XP and S1X work with stock length rods.

130# springs and double roller chain would put you in a good spot to add rockers on top of the cam in the future if you had better flowing heads. Make sure you read up on the machining that needs to be done to the chamfer of the crank gear in order for it to fit your US engine vs the Aussie engine it was designed to fit.
 
Like you I had heard rumors and decided to call around and ensure the correct specs with the parts I was putting together. ZZP wouldn't answer a simple question, while Intense did. Each company has had their good and bad over the years. ZZP consistently in my personal experience let me down. I went with the Intense S1X cam as XP and S1X are similar in power etc.

Not understanding why the pushrod change? Both XP and S1X work with stock length rods.


130# springs and double roller chain would put you in a good spot to add rockers on top of the cam in the future if you had better flowing heads. Make sure you read up on the machining that needs to be done to the chamfer of the crank gear in order for it to fit your US engine vs the Aussie engine it was designed to fit.

Thanks Bill! I was hoping you'd chime in. And that's good to hear! I'd rather not have to upgrade the pushrods or rockers before I have to.

And good to know! I thought all you needed was the machined oil pump cover and the thicker gasket zzp sells, but if I can do any of that myself, I'd be open to bypassing them...
 
I'm just going to reaffirm what Bill said. S1x and xp are basically the same cam. They are the best with stock heads. I've run the xp in a couple different cars.

Both should be run with 130# springs. Pushrods aren't usually necessary. Stock is plenty strong and usually the correct length. The only way to know what length you need is to measure though. Get the crank gear chamfer corrected. And I still run the machines oil pump cover and thicker gasket. Also, you'll need milled ls style retainers and Viton valve seals.
 


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