idrivejunk
New member
I often refer to myself as the poor man making the rich man's dreams come true at the expense of his own. I don't get vacations.
Next up- camaro pix
For Booba-
Next up- camaro pix
For Booba-
Work junk, and junk... at work. By 'junk.
- Thread starter idrivejunk
- Start date
idrivejunk
New member
Theres you a good tune! 
Today part 1-
I R&I'ed the new support and stuck the tank back in to be sure there was sufficient clearance for everything. A teardrop head 3/8 ratchet or a 1/4" air ratchet can get in there with no big trouble.
So I put the latch and lid on-
I started in, to do what I could with adjustment and bumping edges. This lid is all dented up and bent. I was alarmed when I went to twist it a little. Amazingly, it is so floppy that a man can easily flex it up or down a few inches with it open and grasping the corners. Shocking, I have never seen anything like it. Of course this lid (has "TK" stamp) is not tacked around the edges of the skin. Everybody wants to try welding it but I ask, "OK, but where do I hold it during that?". I want another lid.
Found a crusty OE lid out back, tried it on. Pssht! No better fit, but it is absolutely rigid and can't be flexed by average hands. OK, boss wants to show the customer. I'll put the rubber lid back on and tack the edges to appease everyone. For now, I moved on to something else for some visual progress. Stay tuned.
Today part 1-
I R&I'ed the new support and stuck the tank back in to be sure there was sufficient clearance for everything. A teardrop head 3/8 ratchet or a 1/4" air ratchet can get in there with no big trouble.
So I put the latch and lid on-
I started in, to do what I could with adjustment and bumping edges. This lid is all dented up and bent. I was alarmed when I went to twist it a little. Amazingly, it is so floppy that a man can easily flex it up or down a few inches with it open and grasping the corners. Shocking, I have never seen anything like it. Of course this lid (has "TK" stamp) is not tacked around the edges of the skin. Everybody wants to try welding it but I ask, "OK, but where do I hold it during that?". I want another lid.
Found a crusty OE lid out back, tried it on. Pssht! No better fit, but it is absolutely rigid and can't be flexed by average hands. OK, boss wants to show the customer. I'll put the rubber lid back on and tack the edges to appease everyone. For now, I moved on to something else for some visual progress. Stay tuned.
idrivejunk
New member
These tech posts doin anything for you GPF-ers?
Tuesday feels like Thursday part 2-
Last time I talked to the customer he mashed the want button on this mod, so since the gas don't go there no more I hooked that up. Did not quite finish today though. Got close. That tail panel is tore up from the floor up so this ain't the last you'll see.
Its an easy post to follow without much commentary but can you find the brand irony? Hint- I smelled paper. Enjoy!
Sole Aided Design? Had to stomp 'er a little to get it "perfect".
Tuesday feels like Thursday part 2-
Last time I talked to the customer he mashed the want button on this mod, so since the gas don't go there no more I hooked that up. Did not quite finish today though. Got close. That tail panel is tore up from the floor up so this ain't the last you'll see.
Its an easy post to follow without much commentary but can you find the brand irony? Hint- I smelled paper. Enjoy!
Sole Aided Design? Had to stomp 'er a little to get it "perfect".
Fivefingerdeathpunch
New member
I just like to look, thus not much posting.
It's stuff I never get to see on a daily basis that's for sure.
It's stuff I never get to see on a daily basis that's for sure.
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
You keep postin' and I'll keep lookin'. :th_thumb-up:
Kaiser Pontiac
New member
Me too, I love following this thread - we do a lot of old tractor restoration, but that's far less picky, so this is cool to see all the body work.
Sent from my LG G4 using Tapatalk.
Sent from my LG G4 using Tapatalk.
idrivejunk
New member
Thats good to know, guys. I appreciate it. Now which one is gonna step up and mod some metal lol.
I hit the clock this morning and saw the boss waving me into the office... he wanted to hand me a May 2016 Street Trucks mag. My bodywork got another six pages of ink (no credit, never is lol). So go check out "one Fine '55" on page 92. You've seen the truck here before, it has black ghost flames on a dark red pearl.
I hit the clock this morning and saw the boss waving me into the office... he wanted to hand me a May 2016 Street Trucks mag. My bodywork got another six pages of ink (no credit, never is lol). So go check out "one Fine '55" on page 92. You've seen the truck here before, it has black ghost flames on a dark red pearl.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
so, we building the quarter panel or the trunk lid to close that gap up....my god, ray Charles could have set them quarters on better. nothing like added work from someone else's f ups.
the gas filler delete is slick too.
the gas filler delete is slick too.
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
This is my best body work..... http://chrisb.users.superford.org/T...shtray_Switch_Panel/Ashtray_Switch_Panel.html
Awesome! It's always good to see your own work in the mags.
idrivejunk
New member
BB thats pretty cool. I see you are a CAD student (cardboard).
:th_thumb-up:
Heres the start of that article, I don't think its online yet.
Heres the swimming pool 390 that goes in that 67 Ford truck. It has an Edelbrock top end. I woulda let the aluminum show. This is body color with flat clear.
On the 68 Camaro- I don't know what will happen up top, so today I went lower down again. Hilarity abounds there as well. First, I took the time to do some cleanup and oh boy here comes a good Scrabble word... planished... my welds after a little more grinding. Took the latch support and tank out for access inside-
Fogged with rattle etch-
I'm thinking thats good to go. Moving on. Look at this mess at the bottom of the tail panel-
It was loose in a few spots even before I straightened it-
And yeah, those were bondo spots you saw also. Stand clear of the dust zone while I clear the mud off those. look at the 69 hovering like a vulture lol.
Lets see whut we got-
So tomorrow will be a go-round with the "The Maxi". :? :arrow:
Thanks for the little roll call earlier. Somebody chop something up now. :th_king-normal:
:th_thumb-up: Heres the start of that article, I don't think its online yet.
Heres the swimming pool 390 that goes in that 67 Ford truck. It has an Edelbrock top end. I woulda let the aluminum show. This is body color with flat clear.
On the 68 Camaro- I don't know what will happen up top, so today I went lower down again. Hilarity abounds there as well. First, I took the time to do some cleanup and oh boy here comes a good Scrabble word... planished... my welds after a little more grinding. Took the latch support and tank out for access inside-
Fogged with rattle etch-
I'm thinking thats good to go. Moving on. Look at this mess at the bottom of the tail panel-
It was loose in a few spots even before I straightened it-
And yeah, those were bondo spots you saw also. Stand clear of the dust zone while I clear the mud off those. look at the 69 hovering like a vulture lol.
Lets see whut we got-
So tomorrow will be a go-round with the "The Maxi". :? :arrow:
Thanks for the little roll call earlier. Somebody chop something up now. :th_king-normal:
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
Why thank you. I try my best to make it look like I know what I'm doing. LOLBB thats pretty cool. I see you are a CAD student (cardboard).
idrivejunk
New member
...and away we go! I worked left to right. Well, almost. Found another one hiding on the left side. This post is just the left side.
You can kinda make out the pattern. A circle within the outer area of the dent, then working in towards the middle in a spiral of sorts. Well thats how its supposed to work anyway. First in (when the dent happened) is last out (when pulling). Got it?
Heres the stuff on the floor to start. Stare at it long enough and you'll see how this works. Theres a little button on the blue handle and the zap time is regulated by the dial on the box. The stud tip goes through that double-bar lever and the foot goes to the nearest hard spot to pry against. Only takes about three hands, lol. Metal builds up on the tip and must be ground off periodically. The stud tip pictured needs more taper, its supposed to look more like a crayon with about a 1/8" flat tip. As long as the tip is that size and flat, all is well. Until you flinch and blow a hole.
As you'll see, there are shrink marks (lines) from using that feature on the machine. Increased pulse time vs "studs" and using the yellow metal electrode on top of the handle. It takes down lows nicely. Stand back, I'm about to fix some dents-
Cleanup sanding every so often helps a great deal, so multiple passes are no sin.
I"m calling this good. The low area is down real low and nicely dished for filler with no abrupt depth changes, and from the normally viewed angle, only the part that actually is flat shows.
Here, I'll do these other ones while you just watch. This thing beats a stud gun for speed because an easy quarter twist of the handle snaps the tip loose. It stays stuck until you twist. Of course the right setting is important and the ground has to be good, but... Oh yeah... dents-
Well, how 'bout that thing? I love it and have used them a lot. It IS possible to make things worse with it. Next up- dents on the opposite side, and a start on that left tail light area.
You can kinda make out the pattern. A circle within the outer area of the dent, then working in towards the middle in a spiral of sorts. Well thats how its supposed to work anyway. First in (when the dent happened) is last out (when pulling). Got it?
Heres the stuff on the floor to start. Stare at it long enough and you'll see how this works. Theres a little button on the blue handle and the zap time is regulated by the dial on the box. The stud tip goes through that double-bar lever and the foot goes to the nearest hard spot to pry against. Only takes about three hands, lol. Metal builds up on the tip and must be ground off periodically. The stud tip pictured needs more taper, its supposed to look more like a crayon with about a 1/8" flat tip. As long as the tip is that size and flat, all is well. Until you flinch and blow a hole.
As you'll see, there are shrink marks (lines) from using that feature on the machine. Increased pulse time vs "studs" and using the yellow metal electrode on top of the handle. It takes down lows nicely. Stand back, I'm about to fix some dents-
Cleanup sanding every so often helps a great deal, so multiple passes are no sin.
I"m calling this good. The low area is down real low and nicely dished for filler with no abrupt depth changes, and from the normally viewed angle, only the part that actually is flat shows.
Here, I'll do these other ones while you just watch. This thing beats a stud gun for speed because an easy quarter twist of the handle snaps the tip loose. It stays stuck until you twist. Of course the right setting is important and the ground has to be good, but... Oh yeah... dents-
Well, how 'bout that thing? I love it and have used them a lot. It IS possible to make things worse with it. Next up- dents on the opposite side, and a start on that left tail light area.
idrivejunk
New member
Now on to the passenger side of the tag area- yes I flinched. My bad arm was giving me trouble by this time of day. Any time the stud pops loose its a tendon pain risk plus can rip a hole in the metal. If the tip is dirty or not flat, it can move when the zots are applied and throw sparks in yer face on top of blowing a hole. I forgive myself because its stamped thin here. Not my first hole, nor my last!
Just getting started on this nasty looking corner and the end-of-day lighting was working against me. Catch you on the flipside.
Just getting started on this nasty looking corner and the end-of-day lighting was working against me. Catch you on the flipside.
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
Very cool. Did you do that in one day?
idrivejunk
New member
Thanx! Yeah the last two posts are today. The ones posted today were today. As usual. My prying arm started lighting me up about 2 so I had to back off a little. And I usually drag ass getting there too lol. Worked about five hours on the dents, I reckon.
idrivejunk
New member
Thanks, Tim
Thats actually called the tail light panel. Heres one for a Rally Sport-
The rest of the little depressions are filled with body filler. "Bondo". My personal guideline for maximum desired thickness of that when turning turds into show candy is 3/16" deep. Technically, 1/8" is what to shoot for. One of the important things to keep in mind when gauging the severity of defects... is that its relative to the position of the defect on the car. Given enough time, all the lumps could be taken out.
For example, if theres a goobered spot in your paint... its not so bad if its in the middle of the roof as opposed to the edge. A chip on the back edge of the hood is less bad than one at the front, etc. So this stuff that faces the ground is less critical. It will be in the shadow of a chrome bumper which draws the attention in that area.
Notice how flat I made the gas fill patch by comparison. Unlimited access to the backside there, and its a key visual area above where the bumper goes. That was easy and important, this was tough to do and will be seen a lot less. Down here on the bottom, the backside is boxed in so the puller is the only way to fix. I have to dodge overkill plenty because ching. Its the stuff that faces the sky I worry about, and I shoot for un-wavy reflections and good gaps where it counts. You'll see how right here eventually, so keep scoping it out.
Thats actually called the tail light panel. Heres one for a Rally Sport-
The rest of the little depressions are filled with body filler. "Bondo". My personal guideline for maximum desired thickness of that when turning turds into show candy is 3/16" deep. Technically, 1/8" is what to shoot for. One of the important things to keep in mind when gauging the severity of defects... is that its relative to the position of the defect on the car. Given enough time, all the lumps could be taken out.
For example, if theres a goobered spot in your paint... its not so bad if its in the middle of the roof as opposed to the edge. A chip on the back edge of the hood is less bad than one at the front, etc. So this stuff that faces the ground is less critical. It will be in the shadow of a chrome bumper which draws the attention in that area.
Notice how flat I made the gas fill patch by comparison. Unlimited access to the backside there, and its a key visual area above where the bumper goes. That was easy and important, this was tough to do and will be seen a lot less. Down here on the bottom, the backside is boxed in so the puller is the only way to fix. I have to dodge overkill plenty because ching. Its the stuff that faces the sky I worry about, and I shoot for un-wavy reflections and good gaps where it counts. You'll see how right here eventually, so keep scoping it out.
JamesIvey24
New member
always amazed to see some of the work you do.