• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Woohoo Im first!!!

Does your trans work ok now? The whine could be a number of things mainly being bearings inside the trans or the torque converter. Again I dont know what you mean by 4T60HD because there isnt one by that name, there was a 4T60E-HD in 1996 only before the 4T65E-HD went into production. As far as the differential there is no really good option for a limited slip type setup to have two wheels spin all the time. EP or Engineered Performance will modify stock differentials and is probably the only option I would seek, but I am still not real crazy about them as I have seen and read about too many failures from modified stock type differentials, but theres seem to be the most reliable. However, you have to send them your diff and it costs around $600 and there is no warranty of any kind on it. I had to wait over 3 weeks for one that I sent in for a customer so if you really want to use this option you need to plan ahead. Rebuilding the trans to handle your power is no big deal, I have built them before though its been a number of years since I have done much with them. Having the whole car would be the best way to do it so I could get the trans better dialed in to the car, but I need to make WOT runs and wont do this unless the engine is 100% sound for this kind of driving. If you dont drive the car on the street every day than a limited slip differential may be ok for you since you dont put many miles on it.
 


Yes the tranny works OK now, but who knows how long thats going to last. The TGP Trannys were supposed to be a beefed up version of a 440T4, but they still have a hard time lasting under the power of a stock TGP, let alone a modified TGP like I have.

Well, I guess a modified diferential is out. I am looking for something reliable. Althou the car isnt my DD now, It could become my DD in the future. The engine was 100%, but I am maxxing out my injectors. Which calls for me to install some ford yellow or blue tops, with a tune for the injectors. Havent decided. Might be considering the idea of a T3 turbo as well, at about 12 PSI boost, which requires another chip tune. Just alot of variables to work out.
 
Well trannyman, It apears my tranny has taken a dump. It free revs in every single gear. I went to get gas, Put the car in park, put the gas in and then put the car in drive. I didnt turn the car off. And i went to take off and it just free reved. So i turned the car off, and put it back on and the tranny went into gear. I just made it home when the car started free reving again. I let the car sit outside for a bit, Let the tranny get all cold. I started the car and changed gears and they work. So it appears the gears work when its cold, but when its hot it just free revs. What gives?
 
The first thing you should do is check the fluid level and make sure it is to the full mark when the engine running and in park. If this is good then it sounds like you have some internal damage going on and also what happens to most of the 4T65Es when they go bad. Generally its from the filter getting plugged up and when the trans heats up the filter material will swell and restrict flow and also the debris in the filter is pulled into the material also restricting it. Shutting it off for only a few minutes allows some fluid drainback and also the filter to relax until it runs for a short while again. The debris came from somewhere where it be burnt clutches are hardparts failing so there is really no quick fix here to solve your problems.
 
Hi Dave, if you're answering questions here I'll just ask here instead of e-mail.
I was just curious if you had a chance to look at my transmission and TM settings in the bin file I emailed you, to make sure they're okay? I won't be driving the car again for at least another month, so no big rush. Just wanted to check. :)
 
Yea i checked the fluid level, That appears to be fine. Although there is a brownish tint to it already. What if i check the filter again? Will i see anything in the filter or pan if there is internal damage?
 


Sorry Dave I briefed over the file when you sent it and need to look over it again.
vitalssj... You can drop the pan, drain the fluid and remove the filter. Cut the filter open by prying out the metal crimped lip all the way around. Wire cutters work good for this. Once apart there will be a fiber like pad inside and it folds open so you can see what has been caught inside. Your pan will also be a good indication of how much debris is floating around as the filter wont catch everything
 
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Thats what i found in the filter.
 


ANY trans is a good usable core unless the case is split down the center, then big deal you put the guts in a different case. Everything is replacable. Now as far as a core for full return "credit", that is different! Most shops, myself including, will charge you extra if the case or diff is damaged and dont care about the rest as it is part of a standard overhaul. Some shops charge according to what needs to be replaced as opposed to selling it as a rebuild and that generally makes it cost more and has less warranty.
 


Hard Shift

Trannyman,

I have a problem that just started yesterday. My 01 GT just started with hard shifts. I read your page about the problem but I was wondering if i just have the trans fluid drained and filter replace if it would fix my hard shifting. I am the 2nd owner and have only had it a couple of months only put about 2000 miles on it. It has 78K on it now. Don't know if the previous owner did any maintenance. The fluid is red and full the last time i checked about 1000 miles ago.

Thanks

Joe
 
Hi Joe, your common is very problem on the 02 and earlier 4T65E transmissions. It often goes away when you shut the car off and then after you drive it a short while it starts shifting very firm or hard and you can sometimes here the trans pump whine. This is caused by a failing pressure control solenoid most of the time. The pcm tries to command trans line pressure one way or another and when it doesnt see what it wants it will max out the line pressure as a fail safe. Dropping the pan and changing the filter or taking it in for a flush is not going to fix the bad solenoid, though it may slightly soften up your shifts as new fluid has agents to keep shifts smooth that break down over time. I would get ahold of a scan tool or take it to a trans shop or someone knowledgeable and have them scan the car and watch the PCS Amps and also check for code P1811
 
Thanks for the help I'll take it in have it looked at. Do you think that since it just started that just replacing the solenoid would fix it, or is this just the beginning of the end of the tranny
 
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