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Won't stay running unless I press the gas

tweeder

New member
This is a 2002 3800sc in a fiero. I just fired it up for the first time and it won't stay running unless I press the gas. If I taKe the line off the fuel pressure regulator it will start and stay running, I'm not sure if I have my lines propper though. I have gotten rid of the boost bypass. How I have it now is I have one line going from the throttle body to the purge solenoid on the fender and to the line from the fuel tank. Then another seperate line starting at the octopus thing to the fuel pressure regulator. Then another seperate line from the map on firewall to the port under the supercharger. Should I tie in the line from the octopus thingy to the fuel pressure regulator to the map and end at the port under the supercharger?​
 


2010-04-04_183929_Untitled.jpg
 
cap the extra port on top of the super charger, that would be for the climate control in the w body.

the fat port on top of the sc goes to the brake booster.
 


K I just tied in thefpr to the map and the nipple under the sc and it helps that it will now start but it only runs for a few more seconds and seems to be hunting the dies. Any suggestions now?
 
You can't get rid of the boost bypass valve if you are supercharged.

How in the world is it going to bleed off "boost" and run normally.

We need pictures of this engine, this is way to hard to understand what you've done by guessing.
 
You can't get rid of the boost bypass valve if you are supercharged.

How in the world is it going to bleed off "boost" and run normally.

We need pictures of this engine, this is way to hard to understand what you've done by guessing.


Alot of people get rid of the bypass valve, it's a contraversial topic. It allows instant boost but it's noisier, uses a little more fuel. I did it to clean up the engine as well. I will have to take some pics tomorrow. I do have a few codes:
p0452
p0481
p0243-turbocharger waste gate solenoid, I will delete tat ode as I don't have one.
p0463
p0656
 


agree ide hook it up and get the thing running correctly first atleast and then if for some only god knows why reason you want to remove it later you can figure it out then
 
I did a google search and it mentioned the maf. So I unplugged it and the car started and stayed running, so it's something with the maf but what? Not sure how long the engine was sitting before I got it.
 



I used sensor cleaner but not much of an improvement. It starts and hunts for isle and then dies shortly, any way to test the sensor incase it's something else?
 
Your lettering hurts my eyes. Grab a maf from a jy for cheap. But if the car runs fine with the maf unplugged thats a pretty obv indication its the maf and like ffdp said these mafs are notorious for going bad.
 
Your lettering hurts my eyes. Grab a maf from a jy for cheap. But if the car runs fine with the maf unplugged thats a pretty obv indication its the maf and like ffdp said these mafs are notorious for going bad.
Lol sorry about the lettering it came that way from another forum. The thing with our junk yards here is they are crooks there have been times that the part quote is sometimes more than if I were to but it brand new so they're out. It's weird last night after I disconnected the maf it would start up and idle. I cleaned it today and now with it unhooked, it's doing by he same thing within hooked up... It stalls out? WTF. THe only thing I did notice is that with it unhooked it stumbles and misses when pressing the gas.
 
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