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Wont Start - wtf

when you see the giant elbow look above it.. its a vaccuum line there that eases its way off it will cause the car not to crank
 


Ed.. he didn't mean that all six injectors went bad. He said they might not be firing. Aka.. one fuse powers all six.

And I agree, if your plugs aren't wet, then likely you aren't getting fuel.
Unplug maf and try to start with some throttle
Check fuel injector fuse
Pull a plug to find out what's up in there.
 
Just checked sry took a minute was raining,
The only fuse I found was lableed Inj and was a 10a next to the ignition relay and the fuse is fine :(

I unplugged the maf and tried to start it also and got nothing

any other ideas?
 
Are you missing spark or fuel?

If you have someone that can turn the key for you.. get a 12" piece of vacuum hose and connect it under the SC snout to the lIM. While the motor is cranking spray some quick sprays of brake cleaner into that tube. If the motor starts and runs, you have a fueling issue.

Check fuel pressure
Check maf
Check injectors (194 bulb in an injector pigtail works) to see if you are getting power and ground
Check for spark (lick fingers and hope for the best)
 


get a 12" piece of vacuum hose and connect it under the SC snout to the lIM. - is that the big elbow or the vaccum "T" ?

Check fuel pressure - I have pressure at rail (pressure guage)

Check maf - I unplugged it and tried speed density

Check injectors (194 bulb in an injector pigtail works) to see if you are getting power and ground - what is a 194 bulb ?

Check for spark (lick fingers and hope for the best) - I bought and used spark tester

My gut is telling me this:
Code: 
  it is something electrical that remote start was skinned and pulled on, it either pulled some weird hidden splice apart? or touched car and shorted something?
 
A motor needs 4 things to work.

1. Spark
2. Fuel
3. Timing
4 Compression

The engine cranks, so the starter works, right?
You have spark
Timing is highly unlikely
Compression..we know it's there
So you are down to fuel.

Ed.. nothing against you, but the way you are responding is making me :th_scratchhead:, because you have told me you wrench and fix cars all the time. Yet you are unsure where the vacuum port on the LIM is (small nipple with the T connected to it) and you are running into a small issue here with spark and fuel. Make sure you don't spray cleaner into the TB, it'll might the rotors. A 194 bulb is just that. It's a small bulb labeled 194 (usually in the turn signals) and has two metal wires on it that can be bent out to stuff into the FI connector. If the light flashes..you are getting fuel injector pulse.

When you tried to fire up w/o the maf connected, did you try using some throttle?
Do you hear the fuel pump prime?
You said the plugs were dry? If so..then check fuel injection fuse again.
 
I wrench and fix cars a little not all the time, and my knowledge is still minimal I am a newbie - you know that.

I did give throttle minus maf
I did hear pump prime (and I have pressure at rail)
I triple checked the fuse.

I will spray some break cleaner and see if it will start.
 
Ed, you NEED to pull EACH plug out and inspect it.

When we spoke today you didn't tell me about the wire hitting the fan........that sounds like bad business.

That car is wired quite "uniquely" , and we've known about that water pump for quite a while, you really need to fix that. Large fluctuations in heat WILL wear those head gaskets much quicker than normal heat cycling. Not only that, but your intercooler pump is wired in series with that WP, meaning when you lose WP, you loose intercooler. And with that 2.5" pulley on that blower, well, lets just say you generating a lot of heat.

I will also reiterate what I said earlier: I've seen coil packs go bad and STILL give spark. It's just not good enough spark. You may need to get some low mileage ones and replace all of them.

pull each plug and inspect, then go out and buy some starting fluid and spray it into the TB, see if it wants to start up with that............

That alarm system, hell, that whole car's aftermarket electrical system MUST be re-wired. It's going to be a PITA , but totally worth it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 


im pretty sure the gtps have an inertia switch too, im not sure the location of it, but if its pressed the car will not start.. all you gotta do is repush the switch if its that.. they can be set off by many things including a fist if the car was say punched in the right spot.. squad cars used to have them in the rear fender and ppl would walk by and smack the fender so that the squad wouldnt start.. ill try and find a location of it and get back to you, but that might be a good thing to check on.
 
im pretty sure the gtps have an inertia switch too
Click to expand...

:th_shakinghead1::th_shakinghead1::th_scratchhead::th_doh::th_doh::th_doh:

SMH......................and people wonder why I get aggravated at the caliber of "advice" one gets on this board.
 
I am having a similar problem , have confirmed spark and that the fuel pump is working but have yet to confirm that the injectors are firing/opening/working. This car has a code for the CPS , does yours have a cel or any codes stored in continues memory? That may be a good place to start. If I run upon any thing with the car I am working on that would be relevant to your problem I will gladly post back.
 


TJVJR said:
I am having a similar problem , have confirmed spark and that the fuel pump is working but have yet to confirm that the injectors are firing/opening/working. This car has a code for the CPS , does yours have a cel or any codes stored in continues memory? That may be a good place to start. If I run upon any thing with the car I am working on that would be relevant to your problem I will gladly post back.
Click to expand...
Is your CPS the cam position sensor or Crank position sensor? I had a crank position sensor go out and it would crank like a champ but not fire. But I had other symptoms like loss of Tach and stalling while driving. It didnt throw a code until it finally went completely out. Once I replaced it, it ran like a champ until I totaled it.
 
It has fire but the tack did drop to zero several times before the no start condition , would this point to the crank position sensor?
 
TJVJR said:
It has fire but the tack did drop to zero several times before the no start condition , would this point to the crank position sensor?
Click to expand...
Absolutely, the tach dropping is the signal loss from the CKP sensor. Mine would eventually stall out while driving, shortly after the tach dropped. Sometimes it would fire right back up, other times it would just roll over and not fire.
 
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