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Won't start after cam install



If the cam got f*cked, wouldn't the lifters look like hell too? The rollers on them look brand new. I'll pull the heads tonight and have a look. I REEEEAAALLLY don't want to have to pull the cam out again. :(

P.S. I never changed the rockers. They are stock.
 
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i'd spin the engine so cly 1 is tdc and see where the cam lobes are, im pretty sure they should both be in the closed position., if you drop back in 2 lifters for cly 1, you should be able to tell where the lobes of the cam are.

any way you look at it something is way off some how some where. i've never seen every push rod bent or broken.

it would be a trip if you got a boat engine cam shipped to you, most boat engines run backwards.
 
scottydoggs said:
i'd spin the engine so cly 1 is tdc and see where the cam lobes are, im pretty sure they should both be in the closed position., if you drop back in 2 lifters for cly 1, you should be able to tell where the lobes of the cam are.

any way you look at it something is way off some how some where. i've never seen every push rod bent or broken.

it would be a trip if you got a boat engine cam shipped to you, most boat engines run backwards.
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Yea I'll try that procedure with the lifters. I bought this cam off 03impala9c1. He's a very well respected member on many forums.
 
Are you sure that your timing marks are lined up?....because from that picture you posted, it looks to me like they are a tooth off.
 
GTPpower said:
Are you sure that your timing marks are lined up?....because from that picture you posted, it looks to me like they are a tooth off.
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They are. The angle of the camera makes it look like it's off. But even still, a tooth off wouldn't cause this mayhem.
 


I dont think a tooth would do that. If you spin the motor with all of the push rods out does it spin freely? Maybe not a good test if the valves are bent. Befor you go back together with the heads i would borrow a degree wheel and confirm the cam opening/closing times match up with the vs cam specs. Ill look and see if i still have my spec card. Aside from the bellhousing bolt between the eng/trans its really easy to pull one of these motors. Would make removing heads/cam/and oil pan (to check for any metal pieces) a lot easier.
 
A quick leak down test would tell u if there is damage to the valves. Would be easier than pulling the heads. Im pretty sure there is going to be valve damage with bent rods like that but u never know.
 


I took all the spark plugs out and turned the motor by hand with the lifters installed. The piston/cam timing is correct on #1 cylinder. The lifters stay down on compression stroke, the intake lifter comes up on intake stroke, and the exhaust lifter comes up on exhaust stroke. I looked in the valleys in the heads, and the valve stems look fine (from what I can see).
 
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Maybe from repeated trying to start the engine you had so much fuel in there it hydrolocked and bent the pushrods? About the only thing I could think of if the timing was correct. Other questions are what Springs and what rockers are you using again?
 


01gpgt01 said:
Maybe from repeated trying to start the engine you had so much fuel in there it hydrolocked and bent the pushrods? About the only thing I could think of if the timing was correct. Other questions are what Springs and what rockers are you using again?
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Hmmm. Yea that is possible. I'm using G8 springs/retainers and stock rockers.
 
My firing order is also correct. I'm soaking my lifters in oil overnight. Tomorrow, I will assemble the valve train and do a compression test on each cylinder, by turning the motor over by hand.
 
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