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Won't start after cam install



if i'm not mistaken, a parts store can check ICM right around where they test for starters, alternators, etc.
 
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I have no idea what to do. My ICM was fine before pulling my motor. My harmonic balancer is new. What would cause fuel trims to be at zero all the time? Stuck in open loop? That just doesn't make sense though. And the car is surging bad at higher RPM's.
 
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Could the tune throw the car off this much? I haven't had a chance to fully tune it. I just added a bit of fuel everywhere, upped the shift points by 100 RPM, and increased idle speed a bit.
 
fuel trims at zero occur when its relearning(after the batts been disconnected) or you did a relearn Via HPT. drive it around a bit see if it starts jumping around.
 




its shot. Or the wires damaged

"quote"
A GM O2 sensor signal stuck at 450 mV is an indication of an open O2 sensor circuit (signal wire) or faulty O2 signal ground. The 450 mV value (GM) is called a bias voltage and it is not the same for all manufacturers. Some manufacturers employ a dedicated O2 sensor ground. Such a ground lead is attached to the engine block or chassis and feeds an ECM O2 ground pin only. The O2 circuit is then grounded through the inside of the ECM electronic board by this ground wire. A loss of this ground would also put the O2 sensor signal at around 450 mV, which also makes it look like an open circuit. The same holds true for Chrysler, but these use a different O2 bias voltage, which is usually 2.00 to 4.00 volts​
 
Added some fuel. AFR is about 14.8-15.4 at idle now. It feels very rough though. The engine is moving quite a bit, and it sounds like a constant loud tapping noise. I think it's coming from the valve cover. **** it better not be rod knock. I am so ****ing fed up with this ****. This cam install was a ****ing nightmare. Nothing went right.

I just took it for a drive... I'm saw up to 11 degrees of knock, at extremely low RPMS!!! I don't think I went above 25 mph. WTF!!!
 
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