• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Wideband question

rperry435

rperry435

New member
I'm buying a wideband today and need to know if anyone can tell me what will be the issues on my car if I remove the rear o2 sensor instead of putting a new bung in place? I already don't have a cat so I was just wondering what the ill effects would be.

Also do I have to remove the wideband o2 when not tuning or does it just stay mounted.?

And yes I've searched read lots of info just couldn't find these answers.

I was thinking of going with an AEM.. Any other recommendations? I see an AEM failsafe is that worth the extra cash?


Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 


Well for one hour rear 02 is after your cat so your readings won't be accurate the wideband should be closest to where your pre cat sensor as possible. It should also never be on the bottom of the exhaust pipe either. As far as leaving it in it shouldn't be left in without the heater circuit active. Aem NGK and innovative are all good brands
 
I have no Cat so shouldn't be any different than the front reading correct?

So a wideband o2 only has two wires then? Or you have to wire them into the heater circuit to leave them in?

Also if I did place it in the rear o2 spot will the car trip out or not run right if its unplugged.?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
Last edited:
In reality you want it as close to the stocker so that it's in the hottest mixed (front/back) exhaust you can get. By putting it in the rear location it would be getting colder exhaust.
 
The wideband has 4 wires, and its its own sensor and gauge.

You want the sensor in HOT exhaust gases, all the way at the rear o2 is too far back IMO for the sensor.

It stays on all the time because its a gauge.


I would either go with a NGK AFX or a LC1 wideband, a AEM can be used just fine, just know that its not as spot on as a NGK AFX. It may be off by .1 to .2 at all time, which to many isnt a huge deal, but for some it is.

The wideband reads in numbers from 10-17.9, unlike a o2 sensor that reads MV from say 05-999. Say when its reading normal and acting like a o2 sensor the numbers bounce from 14.3 to 15.3ish as the car is trying to reach stoich.


Here is how mine looks, its a AEM style, bottom gauge.

2012-02-17155427.jpg
 
Gotcha so close as possible to the front sensor. Have a bung welded in. And it must be wired into the heater circuit.. Easy enough

I have plans to buy the $200 AEM more than likely... Is the failsafe gauge any more accurate or worth the extra $100 for what it does? Just wondered

Edit. Found the AEM failsafe for 250, the normal aem for 150 and the innovate for 159


Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
Last edited:


You don't have to tap a wire anything. Nothing, zip, zero, nada.

You leave the front o2 sensor alone, don't touch it.


The wideband is its own sensor, it comes with everything, its own wire loom the works. All you have to do it run the harness inside the car and supply a 12v power to the gauge itself.
 
but in order to log through HP tuners since you have the standard version youll need to run a wire to your EGR signal output.
 
Here's what I have what do i need to do then to log with the wideband because you just confused me with the egr wire..

rubuge8u.jpg


Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
holy **** i thought i read you had standard well in that case the outpus for the wideband controller plugs directly into your HP tuner interface all you need to do is calibrate your wideband and get your voltage offset and youre golden
 


Yeah pro version I guess I didn't read that right. I just wanna do the tune one time . right now I'm ordering a 3.6 mps and this wideband.. But yeah while I might not be watching it while I drive passengers always seem to be so amazed at gauges lol.

I almost want to go with a 3.5 but I'm not a big fan of risking Kr. Even though my scans so next to nothing stock pulley

e6udasus.jpg


Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
You will be all set. When you hook up the wideband in the cabin, put another ground off the ground source, run that and the output to the HPT green thing. Then setup a pid for the wideband you use. (easy search on HPT forum)

Poof, you'll be logging like a pro in seconds.

Protip: Use long enough wires that you can place your hpt box where ever you want. Then hide the wires and green thing when you aren't scanning. I have mine tucked under the carpet in the center under the dash.
 
IDK where everyone is getting this "hot exhaust" idea at... Every wideband out there will suggest installiation 3-6feet behind the motor.

AEM instructions are probably a bit smaller than most... but meh.

Mount the O2 sensor in the
exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port. If you anticipate
high EGT's (over 800C), run a turbocharger, run at high RPM for extended periods of
Page 8
time or plan on running leaded race fuel then you must mount the sensor at least 36
inches or more downstream of the exhaust port as all of these can cause the sensor to
overheat.
Click to expand...
 


I have a wideband in the front postition at the header collector, and another in the rear where the second O2 goes. They read within .1 AFR of eachother.
 
I have mine in the rear 02 spot with no cat with no problems. Only time its a little off is cruise and idle type rpms (where ALL widebands are less accurate) but thats where the narrowbands do the work (assuming youre using them). When going wot, that spot will be plenty hot for accurate readings...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top