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Who is running ARP head studs???



At what point would these be required? I mean, what issues do people have that these remedy? I can't see the heads blowing off our engines or anything... Is it simply for better sealing with better gaskets?
 
I dont know that they 'remedy' and existing issue aside from the fact they are just added insurance that you wont blow the gasket. In other words, they just work better than stock bolts. They are stronger (more tensile strength) than stock, clamp better than stock, etc.

That said, I watched a thing on TV not too terribly long ago, it may have been 'How Its Made' where they went and showed how ARP bolts were made and all that process. And they put some work into those suckers I tell ya.
 
i got the 12pt arp head stud kit 0 miles hehehe


basically arp head studs provide a better seal between the headgasket and head to block,

a regular bolt basically pulls on the head, where as a stud pushes on the head giving it more clamping force meaning better seal

just order the set through summit racing for 97 shipped
 
porkyzilla said:
a regular bolt basically pulls on the head, where as a stud pushes on the head giving it more clamping force meaning better seal
Click to expand...

I completed three semesters of college physics and that makes no sense to me how its different. A force is a force. A push is a pull only looking from a different direction.

I can understand if you're able to tighten them more than with the regular bolts (stronger)... otherwise the same downward force (measured in pounds, newtons, whatever you like) is being exerted if you followed the same tightening specs.
 


I'm not really, and totally sold on Head studs if you aren't building/tearing down an engine constantly. They're good in the way you aren't putting wear and tear on the block, but I really can't see how they seat and clamp better.

TTY bolts actually conform to the imperfections of the threads, and the machining of the head, etc....just from the way I look at it, if you end up having to pull the rear head, which is a pain to begin with, you'll still have to pull the studs out or pull the engine.

Not bagging the studs, but I could spend my cash on another part and have just as much success.
 
Trannyman95 said:
That is definately what I am looking for, thanks! I wasnt sure the limit that guys were pushing the stock/felpros and thought it was upper teens in boost but it makes me feel better seeing the 20 number as someone else is doing it.
Click to expand...

That's on an L26 as well, so there's some serious pressure invovled.
 
High power applications need more clamping force, which is granted with arp studs. TTY bolts will just stretch and never really torque more then they are designed to. We dont want to be lifting heads now do we?
 


I have the ARP studs with a few extras, making it hold 27 psi according to ZZP. Look below the spark plug holes and you can see the extras.
ZZPheadexhaustports.jpg
 
So just how hard is it to get these to seal? I hear about needing a lot of teflon tape. Just curious if it's something I may want to do.
 


The Teflon tape is needed because the bolt holes for the head bolts lead into the coolant passages(water jacket), so when you put the stud in if you don't tape the portion going into the block, there is a good chance(not a guarantee) that you will seep coolant out from the head studs
 
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