• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Which timing chain?



I will snap some pictures this spring for everybody. I did the S1X in the summer last year, and left my standard black 90lb springs in the car. New stock timing chain and tensioner.

We were going to throw 105's in, but honestly, we just ran out of time. Car runs great for now, but I obviously cant say much until I inspect the tensioner and chain.


note: my 90lb springs are not blue or yellow. They are not colored at all.
 
shaferz said:
I will snap some pictures this spring for everybody. I did the S1X in the summer last year, and left my standard black 90lb springs in the car. New stock timing chain and tensioner.

We were going to throw 105's in, but honestly, we just ran out of time. Car runs great for now, but I obviously cant say much until I inspect the tensioner and chain.


note: my 90lb springs are not blue or yellow. They are not colored at all.
Click to expand...

good can't wait to see the pictures. When Dave pulls my front cover, I'll try to get a shot of the tensioner on a JP, with about 15K miles.
 
im running a xp cam/105# on a new stock timing chain with about 10k miles now. didnt have the extra funds at the time to put on the dbl roller. after reading that post by dezeldave on cgp im glad i stayed with the stock timing chain for now. at least until all the bugs get worked out.
 


I'm running comp 105# springs with 1.9 roller rockers with stock timing chain for over a year. No valve float. It'll be interesting to get a set of pics later in the spring to add to those lee is intending to get when he opens his up this year.

I went with 105s because I heard and believed they were gentler on the valve train than the 90s. I rev to 6100.
 
So apparently there are two issues with the aftermarket timing sets. The machining of the Rollmaster double chain gear and the difference in cam timing on the single and double Rollmaster and JP sets.

We aren't changing the cam timing until March because the weather should be a little better for another WB tune afterwards. Thanks in advance to Dave (Trannyman) for his quality work.
 
I just picked up the Rollmaster Double Roller, and I plan on running 130# springs. I was going to try an XP cam with the combo, but the deal fell through where I was going to get it...I may have a custom grind done by Cartuning. I'll let you know how it works out...
 
My experiences/preferences:

Run 105s if you're going to be running a stock timing chain on 1.9 rockers or a cam up to .510" lift. 105s are CompCam LSx engine family springs.

Run 90s if you're going to be running a cam up to .560" lift, and run a double roller with the 90s because they have a lot of "open" pressure and they will exert a lot of force on the chain. 90s are factory GM LS6 springs.

I have seen Rollmaster double chains stretched. The JP sets don't suffer from stretch nearly as much. The Rollmaster gears also seem softer than JPs. Overall I much prefer the JP double rollers.

I have used the double front gasket method more than a dozen times with good results. The true fix is to machine the back of the crank gear itself, not the oil pump cover.

Don't worry about the cam timing differences between L36 and L67. The popular supercharged cams run very well on double rollers even if the chainsets are specified for non-supercharged cam timing.

I wouldn't run 130s on a stock valve, it runs a good risk of snapping the valve head off, particularly on a turbo. I also haven't found the 130s to be reliable. Run a smaller cam with no more than .520" lift and LS6 springs, and run a double roller.

Run GM factory LSx family retainers and factory locks, do not run CompCam retainers or locks.
 


You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top