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Which plug for a 3.5?



I know, but I'm happy with the LT1 so I'll stick with it. Here's a picture. Mine is the red one.
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my bmw was auto..well it had both auto n manual but it was auto..man that sucker would kick side ways...it was my first RWD vehicle....besides a 99 dodge ram
 


Yup, now that I got a modded GTP that is faster it is time to start modding this one. Headers this year, and next year i will probably have a couple of options. 1. purchase friends low mile 02 SS and never drive it to keep value up, or 2. H/C/I the LT1. Haven't decided yet.
 


killakross5o4 said:
lol its common sense brother
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Not necessarily. Some people like to have a corvette while others would rather have a corvair. What I meant was that I would keep that in the back of my mind to think about which choice to make. Sometimes collector cars are more fun to own because they get more looks. It can go both ways.
 
gtpinsc said:
detonation occurs more in the hot summer months... drive ur car up a hill at WOT in the summer and scan... then do the same in the winter.
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No...you get more dense air when cold, hence more boost. More boost = more knock prone. When it is hotter, you do have to worry about intake temps and motor temps...not so much boost wise because the air isn't very dense so you won't make as much boost. Detonation occurs when your knocking...not because it is necessarily hotter outside.
 
ok so from what i have learned on here and just from scrolling around on other sites... this is wrong?.... Detonation
We've all heard of this, but what is it? Detonation, or engine knock, occurs simply when fuel pre-ignites before the piston reaches scheduled spark ignition. This means that a powerful explosion is trying to expand a cylinder chamber that is shrinking in size, attempting to reverse the direction of the piston and the engine. When detonation occurs, the internal pneumatic forces can actually exceed 10x the normal forces acting upon a properly operating high performance engine. Detonation is generally caused by excessive heat, excessive cylinder pressure, improper ignition timing, inadequate fuel octane or a combination of these. Of the previous, excessive heat is usually the culprit. As an engine is modified to generate more power, additional heat is produced. Today's pump gas will only tolerate a finite amount of heat before it pre-ignites and causes detonation. Although forced induction engines usually produce far less heat than comparable naturally aspirated high compression engines, the cylinder temperatures in intercooled engines are radically cooler yet. It is rarely boost that causes detonation, just unnecessary heat. An intercooler is such a natural solution for forced induction, that in almost every OEM application, intercooling is part of the package.
 
Right...but more boost with not enough flow = knocking...and that knock is what causes the heat...which in turn will, like you read...create those heat spikes and detonation. Does that make sense?
 


i hear ya on that... but in turn when its hotter outside, air intake temps are going to increase making under hood temps rise which will increase detonation right? keep in mind he said the car is ALL stock. From what i understand the best time to scan for KR is in the summer time going up uphill at WOT because this is the time detonation is more likely to happen.
 
gtpinsc said:
i hear ya on that... but in turn when its hotter outside, air intake temps are going to increase making under hood temps rise which will increase detonation right? keep in mind he said the car is ALL stock. From what i understand the best time to scan for KR is in the summer time going up uphill at WOT because this is the time detonation is more likely to happen.
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When you have really dense cold air coming in it will make your 3.4 seem like a 3.2 and so on. Creating really lean conditions, lean makes a lot of heat, then it knocks. IF you tune in the winter you will be rich as hell in the summer and probably not knock, but you will also not run very fast.
 
^^ your IAT and MAF should adjust for that right?

Colder air generally has a lower specific heat than warmer air, and in winter the air is generally less humid. Meaning it doesn't require as much energy to warm up air that is cold, so cold air will get hot faster. Make sense? So now we have air that is about at the same temperature in winter and summer, that is, once it has been compressed by the s/c. The difference is the density of air at 0*C is 1.293 kg/m^3 and at say at 40*C it is about 1.127. So more oxygen will be pulled in with the colder air, giving a slightly more explosive burn, along with the increased boost. All this will lead to an increase in possible detonation, meaning more KR.
So.... yeah it makes sense to have more KR when its cold :th_laugh-lol2:
 
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rolyat said:
^^ your IAT and MAF should adjust for that right?

Colder air generally has a lower specific heat than warmer air, and in winter the air is generally less humid. Meaning it doesn't require as much energy to warm up air that is cold, so cold air will get hot faster. Make sense? So now we have air that is about at the same temperature in winter and summer, that is, once it has been compressed by the s/c. The difference is the density of air at 0*C is 1.293 kg/m^3 and at say at 40*C it is about 1.127. So more oxygen will be pulled in with the colder air, giving a slightly more explosive burn, along with the increased boost. All this will lead to an increase in possible detonation, meaning more KR.
So.... yeah it makes sense to have more KR when its cold :th_laugh-lol2:
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The IAT and maf can not adjust enough to fix the problem.
 
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