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what should i check on when the car dies out while driving?

spider4

spider4

New member
So driving down the road at a slow speed i press the brakes and the car just cuts off.The little battery light comes on and steering locks up.This is the second time in the last 30 days that it has done this.It has cut back on both times when i turn the key and it drives along as if nothing happened.Im not a mechanic but my feeling when its done it both times is that not enough gas is pumping through.I have to say ive looked at the fuel filter when i got this car and it and the wires immediately around it have a good deal of rust.The car runs fairly strong and steady until it does this,but again when it does cutout can restart and no problems?My other thought,again not having alot of knowledge is would the sparkplugs and the coil have something to do with it? If a coil is bad or rusted it wouldnt give the best connection.what other things would cause this?There is no overheating and for the most part the idle is steady.
 


Ok fordman.And heres the 'Im not a mechanic question".What all is the MAF.I know this means mass air flow,but what makes up this part.Is it the box with the filter and hosing running up to the engine?
 
To expand on that answer (which is correct) the MAF is a black sqaure sensor that sits in the TB and has 4 safety torx screws holding it in. They have little pins in the middle of them that require a special torx bit to remove.

While you are out getting the proper torx bit pick up some CRC MAF cleaner (is specific for cleaning MAF sensors- do NOT use carb or brake cleaner). Should be about $8 for a can. Remove the MAF and spray the small wires that you can see by looking into the sensor. Don't touch the wires as they are very fragile. Let it dry out then reinstall and take it for a drive and see what you get.
 
Wait... The Steering wheel Locks up? Define? Just the no power steering kinda lock or more like a ignition lock?
 


brian.power steering kinda lock when your power stops.I didnt really mean to make that even an issue.Ive had plenty of cars do that when they cutout.Anyway i will have to look into the MAF clean thing.Since i got this car in november ive discovered several issues i want to tackle.Money is the issue.My hopes is it will get me to march and ill have at least $1000 to put into it.
 
FordMan77 said:
To expand on that answer (which is correct) the MAF is a black sqaure sensor that sits in the TB and has 4 safety torx screws holding it in. They have little pins in the middle of them that require a special torx bit to remove.

While you are out getting the proper torx bit pick up some CRC MAF cleaner (is specific for cleaning MAF sensors- do NOT use carb or brake cleaner). Should be about $8 for a can. Remove the MAF and spray the small wires that you can see by looking into the sensor. Don't touch the wires as they are very fragile. Let it dry out then reinstall and take it for a drive and see what you get.
Click to expand...

The MAF on a SC only has 2 screws.
 
GTP in RTP said:
The MAF on a SC only has 2 screws.
Click to expand...

my 98 has 4 holding the maf on. maybe the 04+ only have 2 screws?

i took a cut off wheel to the the tops of the bolts and cut a line across the screws, and then used a flat head screwdriver to remove them. a hack saw will work too or a dremel with a cutting wheel on it will work too.
 
Because it dies when you apply the brake at near idling speeds, it may be vacuum related. I would double check all vacuum hoses for cracks, breakage etc. The reasoning behind this is your brake booster works via vacuum. That elbow where the hose goes into the booster is actually a check valve.
 


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