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What part is this? (Anti-Freeze Leak)

pull straight out while rotating side to side ( front of engine to back of engine). what ever you do, dont twist up or down or side to side or the timing cover will break. it will take awhile, but pulling and rotating will work.
 


It definitely is not coming out, could I spray some PB blaster or something on it to try to help pull it out? Or would it be pointless since the o-ring is sealing it off?
 
You can try that I guess. Couldn't hurt. So you did remove all 3 bolts, right? I've seen where once some of the bolts are removed and 1 is left that there is play in the part but it will not come out.
 
Yeah i got 3 out, 2 are the same size and one is slightly longer than the others. I can wiggle it a little did from drivers side to passengers side too. I only did that though to make sure all the bolts were out.
 
That part is not coming off without breaking it.. Is there any other way? I got half of the plastic elbow out (I cut it in half at the 90 degree turn because I figure it would be easier to take the bracket out then)
 


If it is truly stuck as bad as you say, then it may be time to try and get something between the alt bracket and the front cover and gently, and I mean ever so gently try to pry it forward.

Better yet, if you can enlist the help of someone else, then you can be the one prying it forward while they continue to rock it side to side and pulling forward. About the only other thing I can think to try would be a torch, but I'm not sure how'd you get it in there w/o burning everything around it.

If you do try this, do not use a screwdriver. Use an actual small pry bar. They sell cheap ones at Harbor Freight that is basically just a straight piece of square steel that is angled to a point at the end, and has a 45* bend on it (kinda looks like a hockey stick). Try to keep even pressure on it and not just wrench it forward in one swift motion or I suspect the cover or bracket (or both) will crack/break and then you are hosed.

Use this method at your own risk, I cannot be responsible for what may happen. Good luck.
 
I got it out with my dad's help. We used 2 flat headed pry bars. Now I have to figure out how to put it back together.... I should have labeled the bolts lol
 
So I got it all back together and I only have one problem atm.

There are 3 black bolts that hold the alt bracket on, 2 are the same size and 1 is a little longer. I don't remember where the longer one goes, does anyone happen to know?

Also, when I took it apart anti-freeze went everywhere. Should I clean it off the pulleys before I put the serpentine belt back on?
 
Not sure on the bolt placement. I'm sure someone here knows for sure.

As far as the coolant being everywhere YES- clean it off ALL pullies before you reinstall the belts or you will have massive belt slip/squeal that will most likely never go away and you will end up buying new belts (not cheap). In fact, I would clean everything you can on that side of the motor while you have access to it. Not only will it look better but if you have a leak somewhere after reassembly then it's easier to tell where it's coming from on a clean motor. If it's all black then use some engine foam and spray it down. Most likely you probably have power steering fluid leaking down there too which adds to the mess. And possibly the rear valve cover as well.

And before I forget, since you didn't label the bolts you now see why it is important. I'm not doggin ya, its just a lesson we all have to learn. What I often do when I take something apart for the first time is leave the bolts in the part that it came from that way you know for sure that they belong in that particular hole and not somewhere else on the car. Of course this usually only works on parts that you have removed, but you get the idea.

Worst case scenario grab a paint pen and label the bolts w/ numbers and label the matching holes on the bracket the same way.
 


FordMan77 said:
Not sure on the bolt placement. I'm sure someone here knows for sure.

As far as the coolant being everywhere YES- clean it off ALL pullies before you reinstall the belts or you will have massive belt slip/squeal that will most likely never go away and you will end up buying new belts (not cheap). In fact, I would clean everything you can on that side of the motor while you have access to it. Not only will it look better but if you have a leak somewhere after reassembly then it's easier to tell where it's coming from on a clean motor. If it's all black then use some engine foam and spray it down. Most likely you probably have power steering fluid leaking down there too which adds to the mess. And possibly the rear valve cover as well.

And before I forget, since you didn't label the bolts you now see why it is important. I'm not doggin ya, its just a lesson we all have to learn. What I often do when I take something apart for the first time is leave the bolts in the part that it came from that way you know for sure that they belong in that particular hole and not somewhere else on the car. Of course this usually only works on parts that you have removed, but you get the idea.

Worst case scenario grab a paint pen and label the bolts w/ numbers and label the matching holes on the bracket the same way.
Click to expand...

Alright good to know because I was going to put the belts on and then wash it off.

Also yeah, I think I learned my lesson on the bolts and the numbering idea isn't bad.

Thanks,
Kyle
 
I got it all put back together and fixed, thanks everyone for your help. I greatly appreciate it.

If any of you ever needs any help with car audio, let me know. That's where all my knowledge is haha.
 
So I take it there are no leaks?

Did you bleed the cooling system properly yet? Otherwise your temp will be spiking and you will have no/random heat.
 
What exactly do you mean? And my temp was spiking when I took it for a test drive. I thought it was because it was low on coolant, so I can waiting for it to take some out of the reservoir so I can put more in.
 
there is air in you cooling system. simply wait for the t-stat to open (the needle will go just over 210) and when it does open the bleeder valve on top of the t-stat housing. keep it open until a steady stream of coolant comes out.
 


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