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What did you do to your Car today?

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I was going to stop at the car wash and spray it off, but lines were long and I wasn't waiting.

My brother and I changed the rear brake pads on his 2012 Silverado. Damn thing has drums on the rear. What a pain in the ass. Really, it wasn't that hard, the first side took some time because we wanted to be sure how things came apart and went back together, and we flew through the second side. Also changed the oil in it. He said he was about 3000 miles overdue and still got 5 qts out, so he only "lost" 1 qt. Not bad, I say.
 
pretty sure i fixed my friends toyota, it was stalling and running bad, so dumb dumb took it to pep boys, they charged him 100 bucks to diagnose it, said it needed o2 sensors, a intake gasket new cats 2 to 3 grand worth of work. they didnt even print what the codes were, how nice.

so i scan the car with my 12 dollar scanner lol it has two codes, po101 and po171 iirc maf and vac leak.

whats funny is before i even searched wtf the codes were im just looking around the engine, down by the fire wall on the exhaust shield i see a black box. i reach down its loose so im now spinning it over to wtf this is, then i see a round part, then i see a hole in the intake tube, im like that has to go there, put it back.

ran the codes and told him i cleared your codes, that black thing cause it all, id put money on it. this open hole in the intake was post maf. no wonder it ran poorly.

we'll know in a day or so if its fix, but what the f pep boys? scammers or what?
 
Russosaur said:
Well i just beat the snot out of it, hard launches up to 2k and WOT downshifts and it had no indication of being a problem so looks like it will be fine.
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Like this far? I don't see that ever being a problem.
 
New pads and rotors on the front and rear. Oil change and put the regal trans mount in. Was too dumb to figure out how to get the motor mount out. That's for another day. Found out that one of the mufflers is shot too. The life and times of owning a northern w body.
 


stealthee said:
I was going to stop at the car wash and spray it off, but lines were long and I wasn't waiting.

My brother and I changed the rear brake pads on his 2012 Silverado. Damn thing has drums on the rear. What a pain in the ass. Really, it wasn't that hard, the first side took some time because we wanted to be sure how things came apart and went back together, and we flew through the second side. Also changed the oil in it. He said he was about 3000 miles overdue and still got 5 qts out, so he only "lost" 1 qt. Not bad, I say.
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Must have alot of miles, them rear shoes are known to last like 100k miles easy.

And that stupid tension spring dealio one that goes all the accross is really gay, almost need 2 people for it.
 
Finally got the GP washed. Had just enough daylight left. It's not perfect, but it's a lot better than before and it's actually blue again, lol. Then proceeded to replace the drivers side front window regulator/motor AGAIN. This time I bit the bullet and got a genuine AC Delco unit. Sprayed the crap out of all the window guides with some dry lube and now have a nice smooth working window again. I just hope this one lasts longer than the last chinese POS, kinda gettin tired of fvckin with it all the time.
 
LIM gaskets on my '98 166k mile regal, flushed out a bunch of dexcool sludge, stuck the IC core on during reassembly along with a blower that has an mps on it. Managed to get up to the fuel rails installed before running out of daylight, tomorrow I finish buttoning everything up, write a new file with a '99+ maf table for the newer TB that went on and some scans to get the fueling/timing set up. How they still produce and sell dex**** I just don't understand, I mean any coolant that turns to sludge (regardless of the reason, having air in your system is not a good excuse to have your coolant turn into garbage) shouldn't be used in a vehicle.

I'm gonna have to flush this system for a month, most likely. Have I mentioned I hate dexcool?
 
Below Average Joe, to get the lower motor mount out, undo the uppers, slide a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood to spread out the weight, and slowly lift it up until you're able to turn it sideways and pull it through (obviously undo the 4 mount bolts, you'll have to pull the oil filter off to get the rear most upper nut). Slide the new one in, lower the engine, if it doesn't drop onto the upper studs (it never does, lol) just pull the motor from up top until it drops down on it. Should only take 1/4" if that.
 
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