• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

What did you do to your Car today?

Status
Not open for further replies.
yes sir. just make sure the winds not blowing the over spray over the rest of the car.

trunk open, corner tails out. spray the tops with a few coats, like 3 to be good, if you need to sand it theres a few layers to burn through for protection.
 


Good deal. I'll do that here soon before it gets any worse and then buff the hell out of the car before the meet. It needs a good cleaning.
 
the idiots at orielly's say its the front right.. so i swapped my old rotor under warranty and got a new one.. replace the right side tomorrow. if theres still a problem.. well.. then it's a wiring issue and thats gonna suck..

anyways.. i said this before..but i fixed my switchbacks.. both main wires broke so i had to strip them back and then i wired everything together and soldered them... and then put shrink tubing over them.. and heated it up.. looks great and should last a while.. but gotta put the car on the hoist tomorrow and try and do the other HUB.. not too difficult.. but def. not my favorite thing...
 
You can check which wheel sensor is bad with a multimeter, and without even jacking up the car. Pop your hood, unplug the EBTCM (ABS module), then check the resistance of all 4 wheel bearings. The wheel bearing that has different readings than the rest is bad. It could be the wiring going to the sensor itself, but at least you would know which wheel bearing's wiring to troubleshoot. I had all 4 bearing bad and there was a section of harness on the front passenger side that was bad. I guess they are known to go bad or something. It connects to the harness on the passenger side subframe, then runs along the control arm to the wheel bearing.

If you want, I can look up to the pinout for you so you know which wires to check.
 


Oh yea, lemme look it up. Either way, before you go through all the work of ripping out the bearing you can check it with a multimeter. Hell, if you somehow manage to sprout a third arm you can spin the tire while checking the bearing's resistance and watch it change as the wheel turns. Set your meter to the continuity setting (normally the setting that beeps when the 2 probes are touched), then check the 2 wires going to the wheel bearing. My meter didn't beep when I did this, but it displayed a number (it's been awhile, but it was around 1000). If the number is the same (or very close) on the other 3 wheels, then the ABS sensor portion of your bearing are good.
 
well as we all know the 3800 likes to leak oil. ( not all) so today i took a shot and used blue devil oil leak treatment. says to run the engine for a 1 hour or two. up to 2 days for larger leaks. i was due for a oil change so i dumped it in ran it for a hour and ill be damned if after i wiped the bottom of the engine down 30 minutes in, there was no new oil leaking. so after a hour i did a oil change and drove it home, a block from home the low coolant light started to flash, so once it cools i need to check that and look for my tell tale 3 leak spots i leave all over town lol

tonight im parking over cardboard to know for sure.
 


If my pan starts leaking im just gonna go ham with RTV unless I have the engine out of the car for some reason, and if it was an l67 would go in the l36s place

Sent from the Milky Way
 
The pan leaked in my GTP, it would be almost a quart low every oil change. The only leak the Regal has is the power steering leaks a little.
 
Went for a drive on a hot, sunny Saturday afternoon.....

2014-05-31_001.JPG
 
Russosaur said:
If my pan starts leaking im just gonna go ham with RTV unless I have the engine out of the car for some reason, and if it was an l67 would go in the l36s place

Sent from the Milky Way
Click to expand...

did that too, stopped nothing, what a waste of time, cleaning and rtving the pan edge lol


CapnBreakAlot said:
The pan leaked in my GTP, it would be almost a quart low every oil change. The only leak the Regal has is the power steering leaks a little.
Click to expand...

thats where im at now, i loose a quart every 3,000 miles. it dont smoke at all so i guess its all leaking out.

makes it easy to know when im due for a oil change tho, look a quart low, oil change time lol


and cleared 229,000 miles today too. i parked and missed it my 2 miles.
229_zpsb3a5e403.jpg
 


Well i threw in the other baring.. it needed it.. badly anyways... but still have the ABS/TC lights come on... not right away like it used to.. but after driving a little way they came on.. so i'm guessing its a wiring issue that is going from the HUBs... but which side... damnit.. and how do you replace that ****.. is it hard to do?
 
dont feel bad mine failed the self test 2 times today both times while backing up after a starting it up.

you just need to follow the wires from the hub to the sub frame, they pass through a slit in the plastic then you can see them on the inside of the bay.

the pass side has a plug right by the blancer in a gtp so look near the inside frame for the plug. the drivers side has no plug inside the bay that ive found yet.

if you find a broken wire or missing insulation on a wire you need to cut the wire and solder it back together for the best results.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top