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What did you do to your Car today?

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that trailer sway is from a un evenly loaded trailer. or the hitch is to high or low.

the frame of the trailer should be loaded/set up so its level with the ground.
 


Taught my car to play two notes on the violin


In all seriousness I need to replace nearly my whole suspension.

My wheel bearings are making noise when a bit of stress is put on them (turning, or when just set on the ground from being jacked up)
My LCA's clunk every so often when hitting a bump because the bushings are worn
My sway bar has the horizontal split that will probably break off in the next few years
My tie rod ends are looking pretty gnarly but have no noticeable play, I will replace them anyway since they are original at 111k and will need an alignment after other suspension replacements
My strut towers are pretty rusty, and the shock makes a squeaking noise when they travel from hitting a bump.

Yeah that's about everything. Oh and there's a little puddle of grease under one of the inner CV boots that looks really dry as if it's been there a while, they may have leaked but make no noise.

I may change the rear sway bar links maybe, they don't seem to have any play but I can't really tell. If I put the dorman bar on the front I've heard you need a larger than stock on the rear too.
Brakes are nearing their end too. Wow that's a lot of stuff, and a bit of money to spend even if I do it all myself. I can't even imagine paying a place to do it all.

I was trying to price all of this out but advance auto and oreilly auto's websites came up error when looking for wheel bearings for my car :th_scratchhead:
I will do all the work myself, and add an alignment to that.
 
genki said:
hauled my 2005 GP back to my house after it died and refused to start last night. :th_angry-teeth: the idiot drivers behind me seemed to think it was OK to tailgate me. I guess they never tried to haul a 1 ton trailer without 5th wheel option, if one is not careful the trailer can start fishtailing. There are many youtube video of this caused by either excessive speeding, wind, or from driver who can't stay straight.

One of these day I'll figure how to add a drop box under the rear bumper that holds caltrops. :th_crossbones1: Next time I get a persistent tailgater, I'll release the latch and watch them suddenly slow down and pull over with 4 flat tires.
whistle_zpsf72f1624.gif


(PS moderator: feel free to steal whistling gif for the forum, I didn't find one in this forum's collection of smiles)
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Reminds me of the time that I hauled a parts car done the interstate for two hours. Luckily I had my mom in the chase car and she would get on those peoples asses and tailgate and swerve behind them til they either sped up and moved on or slowed way down >:)
 
02NavyBlue said:
In all seriousness I need to replace nearly my whole suspension.
Wow that's a lot of stuff, and a bit of money to spend even if I do it all myself. I can't even imagine paying a place to do it all.

I was trying to price all of this out but advance auto and oreilly auto's websites came up error when looking for wheel bearings for my car :th_scratchhead:
I will do all the work myself, and add an alignment to that.
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rockauto.

seriously.

bearings-timken
lca's-are 100$ for the pair on rockauto
frontsway bar-might as well go bigger since you need to replace it... aka dorman.
tierods-moog
strut towers-monroe


yea suspension is never cheap, but you'll thank yourself later.
 


jerZcavy4120 said:
rockauto.

seriously.

bearings-timken
lca's-are 100$ for the pair on rockauto
frontsway bar-might as well go bigger since you need to replace it... aka dorman.
tierods-moog
strut towers-monroe


yea suspension is never cheap, but you'll thank yourself later.
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Alright I'm getting a list together. I got the two lcas for $100. I know most recommend dorman lca's and have no prob, but are their outer tie rods not good enough?

And is it worth getting the cheaper Monroe econo-matic struts? or get their main line of struts?
 
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i thought you meant the strut top mounts, for shocks, if your not going low get kyb excel-g's or gr2's
i prefer the exel-g's but you could get what ever you'd like man
 
jerZcavy4120 said:
i thought you meant the strut top mounts, for shocks, if your not going low get kyb excel-g's or gr2's
i prefer the exel-g's but you could get what ever you'd like man
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Well I listed two problem with my current struts, so an entire replacement is needed. Any advantages with kyb over monroe? I've never heard of kyb up until I joined this site. This is what advance offers: Buy KYB Front Strut Plus SR4002 at Advance Auto Parts (I'm using advance for part numbers and vehicle comparability, I'm actually buying online)

My preference is really just a smooth ride at the stock height. Ones that handle terrible michigan roads well. Not a performance strut thats good at handling but suffers conditions like I mentioned.
 


KYB has been around forever. Hell KYB made the stock struts on 3000GT and Stealths all the way back in 91. I've run KYB on a few cars in the past and never once had an issue with them.
 
Alright so I'll go with kyb then. How about for wheel bearings..moog vs timkin. It looks like timkin is around $20 more some places, others they're close to the same.
 
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This is what I got so far. This is Amazon, I've been comparing them to rockauto's prices and many are cheaper on amazon. The KYB's are $4 less each. I still may add rear sway bar links and rear struts?
 
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That's what I do too, compare Amazon to Rock Auto.

If you have Amazon Prime, or know someone who does you can save a lot on shipping by going with Amazon.

When I got a bunch of parts a few months back I saved $25 or so by buying from Advance Auto over Rock Auto and going to the store to pick it up.
 


Just got back from the junkyard. Initially went to get a vac line for my brothers gtp and walked out of there with a set of roof rails for $8. Car also had a plog, indy style seats, and a aftermarket style cluster....may have to get more parts when i get money lol
 
stealthee said:
That's what I do too, compare Amazon to Rock Auto.

If you have Amazon Prime, or know someone who does you can save a lot on shipping by going with Amazon.

When I got a bunch of parts a few months back I saved $25 or so by buying from Advance Auto over Rock Auto and going to the store to pick it up.
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Actually amazon's shipping is free over $25 so I'll qualify. It's probably 5-7 day shipping but that's fine with me. What I'm mostly concerned with is if I should go through with doing everything, or just fixing what's wrong right now. Just wheel bearings and front struts are considered bad as of now($457.68). But those are the things that cost the most anyway, leading me to replace more while I'm there.
 
Depends if you can afford to replace everything now or if your strapped for cash change what's needed and do the rest later.

Personally if it was me and I had the cash to spend I would just do it all at once and not worry about having to constantly go back underneath the car and remove something again etc.

After awhile I get tired of taking a car apart.
 
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