What Brand Paint?

[bustaphoto]

Sooooooo I have to re spray some of my door moldings. I have never done a paint job with the intension of making it look all glossy and nice or even match the color... Here is a chart of the OEM colors in case anyone stumbles upon this thread and needs it

Here is a list of everything I'm getting for this project any input any additional, un-needed items, and preferred brands would be great.

Assorted Sand Paper (I have a foam disc hand sander) for sanding/roughing old paint (Added some 400 grit paper the assorted pack didn't bring anything rougher than 600 which is not enough to get through the rough areas of the paint in my case it was really bad)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0184625UE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2GHAUJSN20LQE

Added:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JMHBENO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Filler/Primer (I'm not sure if this is any good but I like the idea)

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-...=1486496255&sr=1-4&keywords=automotive+primer

Actual Paint

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00407TTEC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Clear Coat - Went with 2k clear coat which has a 2 part mix just like pro paints that come out of a gun.

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489245883&sr=8-1&keywords=2k+clear+coat

3000 Grit Wet Sanding paper

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K2WNI2W/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2GHAUJSN20LQE

I found a sweet drill adaptor from Meguiar's this is way better than a regular drill adaptor because it has dual action meaning it rotates and oscillates up and down causing a non uniform pattern giving you a more effective polish, its also harder to F up the paint because its movement throws the removed material further away giving you a clean surface to work on. There are different kinds of polishers on the market some that just spin others that orbit and some that even have a clutch that stops spinning when specific pressure is applied and then there are the random orbiting polisher all of which are great but start at 3 times the price this adaptor is available for

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OBVRY4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and it's Compound and Polish with accompanied pads.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OBVS20/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OBVXDO/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I'm gonna go above and beyond and try to repair and fill my rocker panel.



Adhesive patch to add some structure and give the bondo something to grab onto

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HA9O5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

some bondo I'm not sure if this is the right stuff, we are gonna find out

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JM8PY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1



**Luxury Items**

I read that tac cloth is good between coats so I got me some of that

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOTM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and also a handle for the spray cans cuz why not

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015RJ41I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and some prep spray I am gonna need for the rocker angel since I will not be repainting the whole thing just trying to feather in the dupli-color

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002969BQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1





One of the panels I want to match better

Here is the really bad panel

Again, I am a total noob at this so any help would be appreciated

 

[Scottydoggs]

you can get all that stuff at the pepboys, they have wet sandpaper mix kits. you want fine paper, like 1000 to 2500, get the prep spray too.

i wet sanded both my bumpers hit them with duplicolor and clear coat then wet sanded with the 2500, then buffed with turtle wax compound and my buffer.

wet sanded after paint and clear cured a few days, or in this case, all winter lol point is, dont rush the wet sand, let it go a few days.

then the finished product

 

[bustaphoto]

you can get all that stuff at the pepboys, they have wet sandpaper mix kits. you want fine paper, like 1000 to 2500, get the prep spray too.

i wet sanded both my bumpers hit them with duplicolor and clear coat then wet sanded with the 2500, then buffed with turtle wax compound and my buffer.

wet sanded after paint and clear cured a few days, or in this case, all winter lol point is, dont rush the wet sand, let it go a few days.



then the finished product

Hell ya if my job comes out half as descent as yours I'll be super happy.

You mentioned prep spray is that before the primer even?

 

[spazzz]

Well there is automotivetouchup.com
The urethane and 2K isnt cheap but it probably would be worth it.
It does take awhile for them to mix it and send it, give it 2 weeks

 

[Scottydoggs]

the prep spray removes all the grease and wax, so wet sand with warm soapy water, dry then prep spray wipe it down, let it dry and then prime it or just paint over it.

i watched a load of yt vids, the whole job is prep. then a light first coat with 50% over lap with a steady pass speed and about 8 inches away. give it 3 coats, then do 3 to 5 coats of clear.

 

[bustaphoto]

Well there is automotivetouchup.com
The urethane and 2K isnt cheap but it probably would be worth it.
It does take awhile for them to mix it and send it, give it 2 weeks

NICE!

I found the chart I posted on that site I had no idea if they where good or not, seems like a good option if you want to repaint the whole car too. Have you personally used them before?

 

[wags81]

I'd recommend 2K clear for sure.

 

[spazzz]

Bought the black urethane and glamour 2k but havent used it yet. I need to redo my reverse bar.
Who needs back up lights.
The black and clear duplicolor on it now isnt shiny enough

 

[bustaphoto]

Finally Got Everything In!!!!

I updated all the links in the first post to reflect everything in the images. The only thing that hasn't arrived yet is the prep spray so the rocker panel will have to wait till next weekend. I'm gonna try to tackle at least the bad panel today, lets see how it goes.

 

[cheatah faheatah]

Wow, look at that, a body shop on a desk...How's your bad hand doing ?

 

[Scottydoggs]

autozone and pep boys all carry the prep spray local. as well as paint and the sand paper.

looks like you got enough stock to paint a lot of other things too.

 

[bustaphoto]

Wow, look at that, a body shop on a desk...How's your bad hand doing ?

Still bad, its my right hand sooooo, this is gonna be interesting hence why I'm only shooting for one of the panels lol. Polishing might have to wait a couple weeks

 

[spazzz]

MSD for Dupli says Acetone for grease and wax remover but towels says alcohol.

Either way don't let it sit long and wipe off with water. Or just use Isopropyl alcohol and water.

Fck that prep spray unless on bare metal. That sht will eat plastic.

 

[idrivejunk]

In my opinion the very first thing to do on this project is to spray a test with the gold before touching the car. It is very likely to be a poor match. You have set up quite an adventure here. Keep expectations low and bear in mind that if anything goes wrong, you can simply wipe it all off with lacquer thinner and try again. I've been painting cars since the late 80s and did it as a full time job for awhile but always using professional grade products. Even with those, butt-matching an aged and previously repaired light metallic as you have planned almost never works. But surely it will be an improvement. Good luck. If I see a question I can answer, I will.

 

[spazzz]

spray inside the trunk. Matts totally right.
That duplicolor is probably what is on there right now, hence darker

 

[bustaphoto]

In my opinion the very first thing to do on this project is to spray a test with the gold before touching the car. It is very likely to be a poor match. You have set up quite an adventure here. Keep expectations low and bear in mind that if anything goes wrong, you can simply wipe it all off with lacquer thinner and try again. I've been painting cars since the late 80s and did it as a full time job for awhile but always using professional grade products. Even with those, butt-matching an aged and previously repaired light metallic as you have planned almost never works. But surely it will be an improvement. Good luck. If I see a question I can answer, I will.

Lol you weren't supposed to look at this thread :th_lipssealed1: Your work is out of hand! Thanks for the tips, I really have 0 expectations for this outside of it not looking like the panel is coming to life and is threatening to eat the rest of the car lol. I do plan to eventually get a full body/paint job I have a good buddy who has a family run body shop locally. I have no Idea what I am doing just looking to have some fun.

spray inside the trunk. Matts totally right.
That duplicolor is probably what is on there right now, hence darker

Ooooo the trunk is a good Idea!

 

[bustaphoto]

Some Inspiration

 

[idrivejunk]

Lol you weren't supposed to look at this thread :th_lipssealed1:

My time at GPF has eventually taught me better than to bust folks' chops on rattle can repairs. I even tried it on my own black GPs and dang if it ain't an easy way to get around some pricey repairs. What you're doing DOES help the insurance value of your car if the results are half decent, like if you got hit in that door with the nasty molding. If you make it look passable, they won't knock $ off a settlement for it. I'll follow along here and help if I can but you may proceed with zero fear of me making disparaging remarks. At least if I do, know thats not my intent.

The trunk won't be faded inside, and your car has more than one exact shade of gold happening. Like in your sig pic its fairly obvious that your driver's door is from another car, and it may have been painted as a blend panel in a repair job before that. Gold is tricky enough in daylight, but artificial light can make it look way different. So can clearcoat. My point is that your color test should be in comparison to the panels surrounding what you want to paint.

My tip this visit is to also test for coverage. You'll want to know from your test how many coats it takes to totally cover what is underneath. Check in strong light, viewed straight on and at an angle. Perhaps use a test piece that has white and black on it when testing for coverage / color.

Don't judge color without clear, it can darken. If the gold color is dark, spray drier coats. If light, spray wetter. The amount of time that the flakes have to settle in the wet paint can affect the shade... OK I'll stop. Glad to help if I can, otherwise :th_lipssealed2:

 

[idrivejunk]

That video is pretty darn good. Only thing I would add is that guy has his technique down making him confident in spraying and blending. You'll want just a little practice right before you hose a part. Tack rag step is important too, and just drag it over the surface, don't mash on it. I would have masked the wheel opening lip also on that fender, but since he was in a downdraft booth he was able to skip that.

 

[bustaphoto]

OOoook Soooooooo a lot happened during this adventure, some good some bad.

Heres my ghetto paint booth lol! I set up one of my daytime balanced video lights, it allowed me to work into the night.

First bad thing that happened was the ugliest panel just kinda fell apart when I was taking it off and I cracked it really bad. It felt like wet cardboard no solidness what so ever. So I got to bust out the bondo early, I figured it would be good practice anyway and there was no way to really make it any worst. I ended up using some CA glue that I use for my racing drones when ever plastic or carbon fiber breaks seems to hold up really good. After the glue and the primer all around the panel felt way more solid before the gluing, while I was just sandlng it felt all wobbly.

Then I forgot to take a picture after I had bondo and sanded which sucked cuz I think thats when it looked the best lol, also after sanding with one hand for like two hours my girlfriend reminded me she had an electric sander :th_angry2: I was very stubborn and decided my sanding by hand was good enough even though there where some areas that where still a little bumpy (BIG MISTAKE).

After primer and some sanding it was starting to look like this might actually still work out.

But after actually base coats and clear coats it was clear it wasn't smooth enough, here are some obnoxiously close up images of some of the mess ups man there are a lot of them, ultimately I do think I need a new panel for this side too but It still looks way better than it did before. (It looks really silver in these images)

But the match was pretty good, atleast to my eye.

Before:

After:

Next is going to be to do that rocker panel corner and the driver door color match, that will be done tonight. Does anyone know how to take these off to paint or is it too much of a hassle