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WBS Header Pics



Rich, They look great.

On the similar ZZP headers, that welded in crossover extension can be a pain to install because you can't wiggle them in as much with that trunk sticking out.

Should be an easy install with your drivetrain nearly sitting on the ground for the cam through the wheelwell install.
 
Swiggles said:
why is the front 02 on the cross over?
Click to expand...

For ease of install and no firewall clearance issues. Your thoughts were the same as mine as to why its there...because then there wouldn't be anything reading the rear bank of cylinders, BUT...if your front bank is differing that much from your rear bank...then I'd lean to think that you'd have more underlying issues than where the o2 is reading from.
 
ZZP headers have the o2 sensor on the crossover as well.
However, my wideband o2 is reading where the downstream o2 used to be.
No problems here, with upstream reading bank one only.
 


you mean manbearpig? half man, half bear, half pig.

so could i put my wideband on the crossover and be ok?
 


bluegtp91 said:
For ease of install and no firewall clearance issues. Your thoughts were the same as mine as to why its there...because then there wouldn't be anything reading the rear bank of cylinders, BUT...if your front bank is differing that much from your rear bank...then I'd lean to think that you'd have more underlying issues than where the o2 is reading from.
Click to expand...

my S&S had the same 'flaw' front o2 only read the front bank. no big deal.

i had a wideband before my cat in the downpipe so i didnt care, really. the car ran perfectly still and the front o2 sensor was childsplay to change.
 
Installed this weekend for Rich. I'm talking to Mike Kopstain about a couple tough areas that I found during the install. The quality is definately there on the materials. Yet I had a few difficulties during the install that cost me probably 3 hours of time and Rich has a dipstick tube leak. Either from me bending the tube about as much as a TOG install or one of the welds on the side of the tube broke free from me bending it nearly in half.

More to come, I liked the quality, the install notes.. I want to talk more with Mike to understand the kinks i hit or help them work to help customers with them.
 
Brian and I ran into the same thing when putting those WBS headers on Scotty's '04 GTP...just food for thought, so it seems to be a constant.
 
Yeah Bill I guess it was a bit of wishful thinking that it would be an easy install. A few hiccups like you said but everything looks great.

By the way Bill is an animal when it comes to a header, XP Cam, and 3.4 pulley install. Dropped off Friday night and done late Saturday. I guess you know a few shortcuts or maybe have done this before? LOL!
 


Late Saturday? After it was running and fluids were topped off the text of "it runs" was sent at 4pm. In my world late is 10-11pm. :D
 
BillBoost37 said:
Late Saturday? After it was running and fluids were topped off the text of "it runs" was sent at 4pm. In my world late is 10-11pm. :D
Click to expand...

Yeah right. I meant late afternoon lol.

You had it done in about 20 hours from the time I left. I'd say that's pretty damn quick and efficient.
 
Ok, let's go into some things that I'll be discussing further with Mike.

The headers took me an extra 3 hours more than usual (SD's, SLP's etc) to install. The rear went in ok, with the cradle down while the cam was being installed. Didn't want to bolt up though. It's typical with SD, SSAC ZZP's and SLP's to not need to bend/tweak the dipstick much at all. The rear header was no where near it's correct location. I ended up bending the trans dipstick about as much as a TOG install. The tube in Rich's car is currently leaking from being bent like a pretzel and we'll be addressing it a third time soon.

On the rear header, I found the bolt hole closest to the #2 primary (between #2 and #4) to be very close to the primary. The bend in the primary kept me from attempting to put any regular sized tools in there.
2011-09-24_08-55-10_74.jpg


Ended up using a bolt with a 10mm head and the 1/4" shallow socker with universal and 1/4" ratchet to tighten it. Still looks like it's sitting on the weld.
2011-09-24_10-58-17_949.jpg


2011-09-24_10-58-26_148.jpg


The driverside bolt on the outside of #6 was a pain. There is no clearance to get tools in to tighten it down. I tapped the nut and die'd the bolt to make them go together by finger and was able to get about 1/8th of a turn for tightening it down.

The EGR tube on the headers has a tube that is too small for the EGR tube to fit into and be bolted down. PaceSetter did the same.
2011-09-24_11-14-36_605.jpg


2011-09-24_11-14-53_335.jpg


The fix, cut the EGR tube down, which potentially causes a leak. Requires the EGR to be removed from the motor.
2011-09-24_11-15-06_91.jpg


2011-09-24_11-15-44_661.jpg
 
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