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Water Pump tips?

B

BigNelson76

New member
After chasing down and fixing other coolant leaks, the water pump finally gave out. I knew it's day was coming... and now it has.


Any tips that would be handy before I get into it? Other things I need to replace/check while i'm in there?


Any brands to stay away from?
 


just so you know going in, the p/s pump needs to come off, and if your a gtp the lower sc belt idler needs to come off, it could be a t55 or a 15 mm. you'll want to see what you got before you start the job or you'll be stuck. the pump and that pulley block the long bolts from coming all the way out.

i lake to break the 4 w/p pulley bolts free, then re move the belt, reverse that when finishing up.

clean the timing cover of old gasket and use a dry gasket. and thread sealant on the 4 long bolts, coolant will come out the block when you remove them. why you need new sealant.
 
If you choose to do the coupler, pull the alternator and the alt bracket. Do the coolant elbows while you were there and you'll be able to get at the bolts easier.

Scott mentions pulling the pulley. The stand that the pulley bolts to is still partially in the way. I like to grind a little of the area to get to the bolt w/o pulling the stand. If you pull that stand, make sure you keep those bolts with it. They are slightly different thread than the rest. Also seal them again when putting them in.

A hose clamp tool is great to have for the lower hose.
 
breaking the little w/p pulley bolts free then removing the belt is the easiest way by far. i think you'd have a hard time getting a screw driver to lock on our little bolts. iirc they are 8 mm?

and i was able to wiggle past the idler stand, no big deal really.
 


ive used the belt many times. 3 years later, still tight.

if you forget to make em tight "like i did once" it kinda sounds like a rod knock lol
 
Yeah..was on the call for that one !

My way.. you do it before the belt and the pulley is nice and tight. No worries, no mistakes.....no potential worry of rod knock.
 
Alright.


Howe the F*** does the supercharger idler come off? Mine is a torx (it's a T45 btw, not t55) and it WILL NOT budge. It rounded off the damn bit. Now here I am so close yet so far stuck in the damn form parking lot


Any ideas?
 


It destroyed the T45 I borrowed from a friend, and when I got a better, high quality one the bolt just starting stripping to hell.

Why the hell didn't they just use a bolt. WHY TORX
 
actually, some do come with a bolt. torx do kinda suck.

try a few taps with a hammer. might help break it free with a new bit.
 
Well.

As I have no access to heat, or a proper drill or easy out or really anything... I tried some JB weld on the t45 (not rounded one) and shoved it in. Whole thing was totally filled. It set for 18 hours. Probably should have waited longer I suppose, but it just broke free and spun happily in it's little stripped out hole.


I do however have a Sawzall in my truck ...


Plan now is to chop that pulley off, replace the water pump and drive home without the beloved supercharger. Where i'll weld a big ole nut on and breaker bar that **** off..........




Ya know, after I finish studying for finals

-_-
 
Because.. I could go double check it.. but I am thinking.. it's only been 3 years since I've touched one and I believe it to be opposite.
 


There's def one on H bodies. I really thought there was one on W as well. Like I said.. it's been a while. I'll be wrong again tomorrow. lol
 
Pretty sure it's regular thread (I tried both anyway....), it's the idler not the tensioner, I haven't gotten around to it yet (midterms) but i'm going to just murder the pulley and leave the bolt be and run with no sc for until I can get a nut welded on then i'll warm up the engine (maybe that will help) and hope a breaker bar gets it out. I really don't want to snap it and have to drill it in that tight spot...

part number on that pulley? and maybe the bolt? (Preferably one with a hex...)
 
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