Want a set of Headers for 10 bucks?
- Thread starter SnowFlake
- Start date
SnowFlake
Banned
So here we are! Overall the welds, primaries, flanges, etc, etc.... are DECENT for $217 shipped.
I would have no complaints... and as I did in 2008, I would install these on my car WITHOUT MODIFICATION and have no issues!
On to the pics
TorcTite clamps alongside the clamps provided.
Primaries 1 5/8"
Crossover 2 1/4"
Downpipe 3"
Flange 7/16" nearly 1/2! (WBS claims 3/8th, I wonder if they ever measured...)
I would have no complaints... and as I did in 2008, I would install these on my car WITHOUT MODIFICATION and have no issues!
On to the pics
TorcTite clamps alongside the clamps provided.
Primaries 1 5/8"
Crossover 2 1/4"
Downpipe 3"
Flange 7/16" nearly 1/2! (WBS claims 3/8th, I wonder if they ever measured...)
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
looks like speed daddy found a Chinese kid who could weld lol
construction wise they look 10 X better then wbs headers.
construction wise they look 10 X better then wbs headers.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
seems some have forgot that small detail. dont sell the crappy ones lol
Speedy1973
New member
thoese are pretty slick looking for Ebay headers
SnowFlake
Banned
Let me be clear... these are NOT awesome super fantabulous headers.
These are $217 (retail) headers from China.
There are inherent design flaws such as the less than perfect 4-1 collector.
With that said, for $217 there is NO REASON AT ALL to buy anything less than ZZP headers for more money.
These will install WITHOUT ISSUE. At the most you can upgrade the to band clamps on the crossover.
To pay 3x more money for THIS SET OF HEADERS with the flex moved to the downpipe is ludicrous.
These are $217 (retail) headers from China.
There are inherent design flaws such as the less than perfect 4-1 collector.
With that said, for $217 there is NO REASON AT ALL to buy anything less than ZZP headers for more money.
These will install WITHOUT ISSUE. At the most you can upgrade the to band clamps on the crossover.
To pay 3x more money for THIS SET OF HEADERS with the flex moved to the downpipe is ludicrous.
Twizted 1
New member
Motor mounts not being solid metal is exactly why you need a flex in the exhaust.
As the engine moves under torque, so does the exhaust. the flex is the only thing saving your exhaust from continuous cracks. It takes the torque stress away from the exhaust.
Sent from Not so smart smartphone
As the engine moves under torque, so does the exhaust. the flex is the only thing saving your exhaust from continuous cracks. It takes the torque stress away from the exhaust.
Sent from Not so smart smartphone
BillBoost37
New member
Good luck using that clamp you bought on the front of the crossover. It'll be creeping up the 3 to 1 collection in the front piece. Hence why when we put on your headers in 2008, we should have used a FrozenBoost $5 clamp. About 1" widde and seals very well.
Turbocharged400sbc
New member
full urethane mounts barely allow the motor to move...more of a flex the chassis/upper core support for movement....
4 years with no flex pipe, no cracks or otherwise
x2 on the clamp at the merge... youll wanna cut back the crossover overlap so it can clamp on the round pipe, not the taper
4 years with no flex pipe, no cracks or otherwise
x2 on the clamp at the merge... youll wanna cut back the crossover overlap so it can clamp on the round pipe, not the taper
FASGP
New member
WOW...I did not know we could still take photos in this day and age, since Mike has not been able to take any over on CGP of the WBS headers for us to see. Good on you Snow...
The quality of those is exceptional for the money. Agree that the step up is ZZP only from what I see. The SD have come a long way from what they used to be for certain.
I would suggest a file being used to put a couple sharp edges under the side of the clamp where it will slide. The other item that will work very well is to wrap the underside of the clamp with duct tape...seriously. The duct tape forms an amazing bond under heat that does not disappear. It will stink for a day or so, and then be fine. The combination of the gouges for grip, and the remnant glue from the tape should hold it in place for a long time.
The quality of those is exceptional for the money. Agree that the step up is ZZP only from what I see. The SD have come a long way from what they used to be for certain.
I would suggest a file being used to put a couple sharp edges under the side of the clamp where it will slide. The other item that will work very well is to wrap the underside of the clamp with duct tape...seriously. The duct tape forms an amazing bond under heat that does not disappear. It will stink for a day or so, and then be fine. The combination of the gouges for grip, and the remnant glue from the tape should hold it in place for a long time.
Last edited:
Turbocharged400sbc
New member
or you could cut off 1-1.5 inches off that 3" long slip joint with 3-4 short relief cuts and never worry about it
is it me or does it look like cylinder 4's primary dumps right into the side of the 4 into 1 merge....yeesh
god it pisses me off when they hit the flange against a belt sander like that....most of the time they aint flat....
is it me or does it look like cylinder 4's primary dumps right into the side of the 4 into 1 merge....yeesh
god it pisses me off when they hit the flange against a belt sander like that....most of the time they aint flat....