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VS Cam Ideas

Just re read your original post. Sorry I thought you mentioned a stage 3 type cam in your next build with the heads. You really won't need a double roller timing chain with a mild cam and 90lb springs. I run a single roller which is stronger than stock. Did you replace the timing chain on the last build? If so with what? Im pretty sure a double requires some machining of timing chain cover. I gapped 104's to .048. Depending on how much work was done on your ported heads the gains may be minimal but every little bit helps...
 


Snowflake seems to be the person who you should listen to. You won't get close to 350whp sorry to say.

Also to slightly go against the norm...I say go with 130 lb valve springs but that's more of a personal prerogative. Also to the guys saying to run the motor at 160f. You do realize you lose efficiency (aka mileage) from running the motor too cold. In a perfect world its best to run the motor warm with as hott a spark plug and as wide a gap as possible.

I'm going to assume since you chose a VS cam you aren't going for a max effort build.
 
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Also to the OP. Are you thinking about switching cams or are you stuck on the VS?

Keep your stock rockers. You will lose power with a roller rocker. Now if you grind a cam with the lift you would lose from a roller then a roller might be worth it only if you really want to shell the cash out for rollers. Me personally? I say save your money.
 
I've always heard a hot plug can become too hot and become a point of detonation (KR) a big gap in a highly boosted motor can also be vulnerable to the spark being blown out. I agree to run the motor with a 180 t stat. A 160 is more for bigger builds / race car
 
My turbo car runs 104s and a 180 t-stat... it makes an easy 500whp on 93 octane.
Just sayin'

I laugh a little when bolt on cars have AL 103s.
 


Just re read your original post. Sorry I thought you mentioned a stage 3 type cam in your next build with the heads. You really won't need a double roller timing chain with a mild cam and 90lb springs. I run a single roller which is stronger than stock. Did you replace the timing chain on the last build? If so with what? Im pretty sure a double requires some machining of timing chain cover. I gapped 104's to .048. Depending on how much work was done on your ported heads the gains may be minimal but every little bit helps...

Yeah it's confusing, I have 2 builds, the VS cam I finished witch is the engine pictured on my 40th anniversary gp and a XPZ build on the GTX pictured two cars two builds. One mild the other a big one. I am running a new stock damp and chain will that be good enough? I do have a double roller as well as plate for it. All these parts I have so its just a matter of installing. Just more of is it worth the work vs gain. As I said I just want to keep up with muscle cars mainly srt8. That is all.
 
Snowflake seems to be the person who you should listen to. You won't get close to 350whp sorry to say.

Also to slightly go against the norm...I say go with 130 lb valve springs but that's more of a personal prerogative. Also to the guys saying to run the motor at 160f. You do realize you lose efficiency (aka mileage) from running the motor too cold. In a perfect world its best to run the motor warm with as hott a spark plug and as wide a gap as possible.

I'm going to assume since you chose a VS cam you aren't going for a max effort build.

Run 130 with a vs cam? Isn't that too much?

I do have two builds going the VS cam and XPZ on my Gtx. Idc about the whp just as long as I can keep up if not beat srt8. I will be happy this isn't my big build, which is why I just want it good enough not best. That will be my Xpz GTX.
 
Also to the OP. Are you thinking about switching cams or are you stuck on the VS?

Keep your stock rockers. You will lose power with a roller rocker. Now if you grind a cam with the lift you would lose from a roller then a roller might be worth it only if you really want to shell the cash out for rollers. Me personally? I say save your money.

All this I have, nothing will be bought besides gaskets and fluids. I have a small and bi build going. The 1.6 aren't roller rockers either. Which is why I ask if I should add them?
 
I've always heard a hot plug can become too hot and become a point of detonation (KR) a big gap in a highly boosted motor can also be vulnerable to the spark being blown out. I agree to run the motor with a 180 t stat. A 160 is more for bigger builds / race car
That is true witch is why I didn't think much about running the 103s
 


If you stay with the 90's the new stock chain will be ok. Normally the double rollers are for big cams and 130 springs.
 
Just what Paul suggested since Cali gas sucks, what gap should I go with?

I'd go with the stock gap, if you have spark blowout (which you will likely not have) gap it down .005 until it goes away.
My AL 104s are gapped at .054 on my 500whp turbo setup lol
 
I'd go with the stock gap, if you have spark blowout (which you will likely not have) gap it down .005 until it goes away.
My AL 104s are gapped at .054 on my 500whp turbo setup lol

No spark blowout with that much boost? Interesting.... I gapped at .048 bc that what knowlegable people suggested. When I dyno tuned the dyno guy thought I might get blow out at .048 but I didn't. Does e85 blow out easier than 93? i had the gap at .054 with 93 gas and a 3.2 pulley but made it smaller with the 2.8 and e85 with 15lbs of boost.
 
How do I know if I have gap blowout never knew how to tell if I did? Not saying I do but for future reference.
 
Pulled the engine and trans today. My two 40ths and my dads 73 formula 400 in the background. Almost the same color as the 40th too.

F11B8E43-F1CA-4FB9-B835-3F1C12CB04D9-16427-00001B97BE06F2EC_zpsb66a8ad7.jpg


why my tranny failed well I believe this was the only reason, any idea why this would snap or break? It is stuck inside the converter.

7B06415B-2270-4682-9395-6B81274A06FA-16427-00001B981CF321E4_zps53f1b822.jpg
 


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